clutch problem???? idk??
#14
Derf, dunno!
Most of the time with a hydraulic clutch acting this way, there was a problem with the master or slave. A leak causing a loss of fluid, but that is also a wet spot some where or, needs bleeding and did not bleed it.
Other problems I have had is with the wrong pressure plate or clutch disc. Or improperly installed.
Not sure whether this car used to be an automatic and is now a 5 speed. Lots of parts are needed to do this, lots of placed to get the wrong part for a different model that looks right but won't move right.
The test you recommended is an indication of the pedal and it's curcuitry moving the correct distance, either it is or it is not.
It seems to indicate that it is. Than if that is true the problem is with the installation of the racing clutch disc or pressure plate.
As I see it anyway.
Most of the time with a hydraulic clutch acting this way, there was a problem with the master or slave. A leak causing a loss of fluid, but that is also a wet spot some where or, needs bleeding and did not bleed it.
Other problems I have had is with the wrong pressure plate or clutch disc. Or improperly installed.
Not sure whether this car used to be an automatic and is now a 5 speed. Lots of parts are needed to do this, lots of placed to get the wrong part for a different model that looks right but won't move right.
The test you recommended is an indication of the pedal and it's curcuitry moving the correct distance, either it is or it is not.
It seems to indicate that it is. Than if that is true the problem is with the installation of the racing clutch disc or pressure plate.
As I see it anyway.
#15
well it deff makes sense about the hydros. but theres a new slave and the master works just fint. no loss of fluid and no puddles or anything wet. and the was only one way that the racing cutch pressure plate could go in. it wouldnt fit the other way. and yes this was the automatic and swaped to a five speed, but i did research for about three weeks before i did it. im not missing anything, with my luck it is something totally stupid, and im just not seeing it....... but i do know one thing, this really sucks
#16
master slave unit comes pre-bled from factory as a single unit; I've read that these systems are damn near impossible to bleed.
I'd suspect air in the system if you've patched a master and a slave together from different avenues of life
I'd suspect air in the system if you've patched a master and a slave together from different avenues of life
#17
I saw master/slave parts that had to be pieced together for sale when I was looking for parts for my 5 speed swap. (I ended up using the old system off donor car.)
maybe he got one of them instead of the whole system?
maybe he got one of them instead of the whole system?
#18
I have found in long distance trouble shooting when a problem is difficult to identify, that you find out all the the things that are good and forget about them, the problem is some where else and this new piece of information indicates a right questions was not asked.
If the OEM unit is a one piece assembly of a master and slave cylinder with connecting hoses, but you can piece one together from junk yard or individual parts, did he, so
Where did you get the master
and
the slave cylinder?
and while I am asking
the clutch pedal and linkage?
If the OEM unit is a one piece assembly of a master and slave cylinder with connecting hoses, but you can piece one together from junk yard or individual parts, did he, so
Where did you get the master
and
the slave cylinder?
and while I am asking
the clutch pedal and linkage?
#19
evarything i got for my swap come from a donor car. pedal linkage and everything. the only thing i didnt keep of coarse is the old clutch. i got a stage one gripforce racing clutch. i did have the original slave and master cylinder, but the old slave had a leak. so i bought a new slave cylinder, and i still have the old one. i got good pressure in the pedal, thats why im having trouble. no sign of hydro problems
#20
From my Mitchels service information on Saturn 99SC1
If pedal travel is 5.3-6.2" to to Release Fork Travel. If pedal travel is not correct, check for carpeting or floor mat interfernce under pedal. If pedal is clear check for faulty pedal pivot bushing and bent pedal. If pedal Pivot bushing is correct go to Release Fork Travel.
And if I understand correctly, that is the measurement Derf had you doing.
The service information indicates that the master and slave cylinder is serviced as an assembly. It does not need bleading and the bleed screw on the master cylinder is used as a factory fill opening only.
Now any car with a hydraulic clutch I have owned the unit was bleedable if needed. If a Saturn assembly can not be bleeded than is beginning to point at a possible problem no matter whether you can buy the parts individually or not. Being able to buy them is not an indicater that they are usable.
The clutch pedal travel is measured in direct line with the point where the lever arm attaches to the back side of the pedal.
If any of the parts do not measure as given, look for damage to parts, interferrance including damage to firewall, improperly installed parts including pressure plate and clutch disc.
All this paraphrased from service information.
Problems I have had have been master and slave cylinder leaks, worn out parts and improperly installed clutch discs and damaged pressure plates. Improperly installed clutch discs also came from, they are the same as a Ford disc. So use one.
No it wasn't.
I did not know any better the first time, The pressure plate was made by Ford, the disc was unique.
Or A common conversion was a Mustang 5 speed and I have one, and some one who thought they knew better than I did insisted that they should use a mustang Clutch disc,
Which they did twice in a row.
Didn't work either time then.
A Ford disc is used with a Ford car, this is not a Ford Car, the Ford manufactured Pressure Plate is spec'd out different when not used in a Ford.
If pedal travel is 5.3-6.2" to to Release Fork Travel. If pedal travel is not correct, check for carpeting or floor mat interfernce under pedal. If pedal is clear check for faulty pedal pivot bushing and bent pedal. If pedal Pivot bushing is correct go to Release Fork Travel.
And if I understand correctly, that is the measurement Derf had you doing.
The service information indicates that the master and slave cylinder is serviced as an assembly. It does not need bleading and the bleed screw on the master cylinder is used as a factory fill opening only.
Now any car with a hydraulic clutch I have owned the unit was bleedable if needed. If a Saturn assembly can not be bleeded than is beginning to point at a possible problem no matter whether you can buy the parts individually or not. Being able to buy them is not an indicater that they are usable.
The clutch pedal travel is measured in direct line with the point where the lever arm attaches to the back side of the pedal.
If any of the parts do not measure as given, look for damage to parts, interferrance including damage to firewall, improperly installed parts including pressure plate and clutch disc.
All this paraphrased from service information.
Problems I have had have been master and slave cylinder leaks, worn out parts and improperly installed clutch discs and damaged pressure plates. Improperly installed clutch discs also came from, they are the same as a Ford disc. So use one.
No it wasn't.
I did not know any better the first time, The pressure plate was made by Ford, the disc was unique.
Or A common conversion was a Mustang 5 speed and I have one, and some one who thought they knew better than I did insisted that they should use a mustang Clutch disc,
Which they did twice in a row.
Didn't work either time then.
A Ford disc is used with a Ford car, this is not a Ford Car, the Ford manufactured Pressure Plate is spec'd out different when not used in a Ford.