Saturn 3 Door Coupes SC1 and SC2

1995 sc2

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  #31  
Old 03-07-2022, 10:19 PM
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Dexron III ATF is in fact the minimum specification. I just relooked it up. Sorry for the guessing earlier.
 
  #32  
Old 03-13-2022, 05:33 PM
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So after installing a new valve cover gasket and running the engine to verify no leaks and make sure fan comes on when it should I look under the car and see about 6 inch diameter puddle of oil. After much investigation I find the front crankshaft seal has actually come out of its resting spot and is spinning along with the crankshaft? Any guesses why a seal that is in behind the crankshaft pulley which is normally tapped into the timing chain cover would actually work its way out to be free spinning? I would love to hear the possibilities of this situation. Thanks much to all helpers.
 
  #33  
Old 03-14-2022, 04:35 AM
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Did you tighten the crank pulley bolt fully to torque specs which I think are upwards of 150 foot pounds? I'm thinking you did a timing set on this but I cannot remember. If you did not then you wouldn't know whether that was sufficiently tightened or not.

Anyway, If you pull the crank pulley, you will see the end of the crank with the key way sticking through the seal. My guess is that from lack of use, the seal dried out.

So now I'm taking you didn't do a timing set because you would have seen the bad crank seal when you pulled the timing cover and replaced it.

I don't remember how many miles are on this vehicle but I would do a full timing set on it while you can still get the parts. The crank seal is about $4. Keep that oil up.
 
  #34  
Old 03-14-2022, 09:14 AM
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Much thanks again Derf. No I have done nothing anywhere near the crank pulley other than a new serpentine belt which has no effect on a seal . I suspect it may have something to do with adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil change and for some unknown reason the seal reacted somehow. Makes no sense to me why a seal would act this way just because of the additive.
 
  #35  
Old 03-14-2022, 11:40 PM
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I did some reading and it turns out that the nose of the crank pulley can scrape the face of the seal and tear it, especially if the pulley is not parallel to the seal.

Perhaps the crank bolt is not torqued to spec and the new belt shifted the pulley off axis just enough to rub on the seal.

SWAG
 
  #36  
Old 03-20-2022, 05:29 PM
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First test drive and the clutch does not engage until the very top of the pedal play then after shifting a few gears the shift linkage feels as if it came unconnected and now does nothing. Stays in either 2nd or 3rd gear. Can’t tell. What a first test drive huh?
 
  #37  
Old 03-20-2022, 06:57 PM
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The shifter bushing that holds the cables to the shifter just broke. Happens on every five speed including both of mine. Sitting there dry rotting for 6 years did it no favors.

I will be back to post a link to things you can use to fix it. Your choice of solutions.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/114735632359?hash=item1ab6c6cfe7:g:9G0AAOxyOM5RZ6A y

The stainless steel is bored out to accept the **** at the bottom of the shifter. The diameter is just a smidge smaller than the inside of the shifter cable ends. There's a plastic spacer and then an e clip.

The only way this doesn't work is if you don't get the JB weld used to hold the two pieces together mixed put in and the two parts clamped together.

I have used this on both of my cars without issue. If you screw up on the install and it comes off, you can very carefully dremel it out to get the old JB weld off and then do it properly. Ask me how I know.

I believe the seller was the first to develop any fix for this issue that was made available to the masses. A zillion people have copied his design and I believe he had it patented so it is patent infringement but he cannot afford to sue so many people. He has another choice as well which is listed next.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124833995949?hash=item1d10af9cad:g:ytkAAOxyQBJRE8~ P

This is more like the original but is made out of much better quality plastic. Again, everyone copied this design.

Before I forget to say it, If you get the one with the e clip, be sure you lay a towel around the shifter base to block off the gap between the carpet and the shifter base. That clip takes a huge amount of force to install and when it isn't quite exactly aligned and you press on it it goes ricocheting all over the vehicle. Mine bounced off one of the windows hit the back of my seat and apparently bounced off the dashboard and fell down between the carpet and the frame because I never found it and it was never seen again. He was kind enough to send me another one for free.

You can search on Saturn shifter bushing on the internet and find all the rip-offs. His may be a bit more expensive but I direct all people to him because he is the reason there are so many rip-offs of the idea and he uses quality materials. Comes with an installation guide with details. Let it set for the full amount of time before trying it.

 

Last edited by derf; 03-20-2022 at 07:20 PM.
  #38  
Old 03-20-2022, 07:28 PM
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Clutch.

First thing to do is check the level of fluid in the master cylinder. Off the top of my head it is a tall black tube with a twist top. Level should be near the top. If it is not, tell me. If it is completely dry, then there is a leak and if you pour more fluid into it, you will trap air in the system. This particular master slave combination, as built, is a complete bitch too bleed on the bench. I've never tried but I've read about a lot of people claiming to have done it. It's done at the factory before it is sent to you. I guess this is the reason for that. Anyway check the level and then report back.

Since it does engage eventually, it sounds like the fluid is probably okay level wise and the slave is separating the friction plate from the flywheel. The flywheel may just be worn out. Which you don't want to hear unless you like doing more work.

Get the shifter fixed first because there's no way to do anything else with the transmission until you can drive it and see how bad the clutch engagement truly is. It may just need a little bit of pressurization after all that time. Technically it shouldn't leak or lose pressure but I don't know
 
  #39  
Old 03-20-2022, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by derf
Clutch.

First thing to do is check the level of fluid in the master cylinder. Off the top of my head it is a tall black tube with a twist top. Level should be near the top. If it is not, tell me. If it is completely dry, then there is a leak and if you pour more fluid into it, you will trap air in the system. This particular master slave combination, as built, is a complete bitch too bleed on the bench. I've never tried but I've read about a lot of people claiming to have done it. It's done at the factory before it is sent to you. I guess this is the reason for that. Anyway check the level and then report back.

Since it does engage eventually, it sounds like the fluid is probably okay level wise and the slave is separating the friction plate from the flywheel. The flywheel may just be worn out. Which you don't want to hear unless you like doing more work.

Get the shifter fixed first because there's no way to do anything else with the transmission until you can drive it and see how bad the clutch engagement truly is. It may just need a little bit of pressurization after all that time. Technically it shouldn't leak or lose pressure but I don't know
thanks so much
 
  #40  
Old 03-21-2022, 03:29 AM
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Again thanks Derf for all your input. Good news is that the replacement of the front crankshaft seal went well with no leaks and I did torque the center bolt to specs. After running the engine with the passenger side front wheel off to observe the seal and watch the serpentine belt behave itself , it was time for the first test drive to see what works and what doesn’t. Previous post explains. Now I will follow your advice and start the process for shifter and clutch situation. I appreciate your input and will keep you posted on the progress.
 


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