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I had the front wheel/hub bearings changed out last week on my '05 Grand Marquis. I was supposed to get a house project done at the same time; but the day I started, I tested positive for COVID. Got the car back a couple days ago. It drives differently. I no longer get the bump steer that I had thought was the rear wheels hopping off the ground when I hit bumps. Apparently it was the front wheels doing that. The steering is tighter and the car rolls easier; or at least it doesn't take much effort to push the car. I didn't think my old hubs were that bad. Now I just need to get back on the big brake upgrade; probably around Turkey Day. We'll see. I may instead start messing with the Crown Vic again since I made that installation error discovery last week.
Last edited by Chickenbone; Sep 29, 2023 at 03:10 PM.
So, this afternoon I decided that I couldn't quarantine on a day like this (still testing + for COVID); so I went outside to get a breather. Which lead to me uncovering the Crown Vic for the 1st time in over a year. Cleaned the cobwebs from under the car to get a good look at the starter. I forgot that the ignition wire is fastened to the starter lug with a spade terminal. So I took some 8AWG wire and spliced it into the ignition wire. Then I crimped a ring terminal on the other end and stuck that on the battery lug. When I get around to siphoning the 2 year old gas out of the tank; I will make a concerted effort to trying another 1st start attempt. Hoping that this jumper wire (or lack thereof) was the reason for the no crank with the key.
I've never really messed with a Ford, but what's that extra terminal with the loose nut and lock washer on the starter for? Is the green wire your ground? If so, that doesn't look like much of a ground to me, but what do I know? I'm an old school Mopar guy.
Green wire is the signal/ignition wire; or at least that's what I was told. The lug with the black cable that leads to the body is ground. Their other starters don't seem to have that extra ground lug; just the battery and ignitions lugs. This is what happens when you start buying parts way before the project is started. :-/
If the factory fender mounted solenoid is intact, do not turn the key with the way you have it wired! That is a nice starter but the only Ford that ever came with that style starter was a 460 back in the 70s. All that type of starter needs to work with factory wiring is a #10 jumper wire from the battery post on the starter to the solenoid post. The battery cable is dead until the fender mounted solenoid is activated. The jumper engages the solenoid on the new starter when the cable comes to life form the fender mounted solenoid. The starter is grounded by bolting it to the block. The big ground wire from the battery attaches to the block. And the small ground wires ground the body to the block. The big load is the starter, all the rest are minimal by comparison. The factory positive cable should be relatively short and connect to the fender mounted solenoid. The smaller fusable links also attach at the same post. There should be one small wire that triggers the solenoid. There may be a second small wire on another post, or maybe not. The red wire to the starter is on the other big post on the solenoid.
Thanks for explaining that, Andy. I didn't think it looked right,but, like I said, I'm NOT a Ford guy. Reading what you posted makes me think he's in for a major melt down if energy is provided to the starter like that.
You are correct. I am going to change it back to the way it was originally configured with the stock engine. I will have to make a new alternator cable as this one is too short to make it to the solenoid. Been meaning to upgrade to 2AWG anyways. Then I just need to assemble a new jumper from the old green cable; or just loop that 8AWG extension around to the ignition stud/terminal on the starter. Meh, I'll figure it out. Thank you for heads up. :-D