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  #11  
Old 01-22-2015, 06:26 PM
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... And because I can't leave well enough alone, and I was bored one evening before going to work, I stumbled upon this...

Cars for Sale: 2002 Saturn S-Series SL2 Sedan in Ravenna, OH 44266: Sedan Details - 388957350 - AutoTrader.com

I called them and a straight-up trade is likely, but I would have to lose both of my Fords... You guys think it'll be worth it?
 
  #12  
Old 01-23-2015, 11:50 AM
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Only you can decide if it's worth it or not, man. One less vehicle to maintain and insure is an attractive thought, though, isn't it? If you really don't need the extra one, then go ahead and pull the trigger.
 
  #13  
Old 01-23-2015, 09:10 PM
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I have to go with Rube on this one, it's your call brother.
 
  #14  
Old 01-24-2015, 12:40 AM
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Surprised they are not asking a bit more.
--The car appears cosmetically very well maintained.
--Door gaps and bumper alignment consistent, paint is original saturn color so
likely never wrecked. If wrecked, put back together nicely.
---Interior looks good for it's age.

---used a vin decoder --- did not say it had side airbags -- just saying -- could be
wrong
---also ABS is not mentioned in either the ad or the vin decoder results. I thought
this was standard on the later S series cars. Someone pls chime in. I bring this
up b/c you prob want abs in WV, no?

Of course of primary concern is the state of the engine and mechanicals. You must use your ears and eyes since they always steam clean them. That and a compression test is vital. It might be pretty on the outside but a mess under the hood.

If I'm trading two vehicles to get one, I want to be damn ****ing sure I'm buying something that is in good enough condition under the hood that will last me awhile, 'cause I'll have no spare.

Just trying to help lay it all out on the table for ya.

Go with what you hear see and measure, not with the warm fuzzy you get from buying a shiny new car (new to you)
 
  #15  
Old 01-24-2015, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by derf
Surprised they are not asking a bit more.
--The car appears cosmetically very well maintained.
--Door gaps and bumper alignment consistent, paint is original saturn color so
likely never wrecked. If wrecked, put back together nicely.
---Interior looks good for it's age.

---used a vin decoder --- did not say it had side airbags -- just saying -- could be
wrong
---also ABS is not mentioned in either the ad or the vin decoder results. I thought

up b/c you prob want abs in WV, no?

Of course of primary concern is the state of the engine and mechanicals. You must use your ears and eyes since they always steam clean them. That and a compression test is vital. It might be pretty on the outside but a mess under the hood.

If I'm trading two vehicles to get one, I want to be damn ****ing sure I'm buying something that is in good enough condition under the hood that will last me awhile, 'cause I'll have no spare.

Just trying to help lay it all out on the table for ya.

Go with what you hear see and measure, not with the warm fuzzy you get from buying a shiny new car (new to you)
Yeah, ABS and T/C were options on the S-cars, and I couldn't care less about not having it. My ranger is the first vehicle I've owned with it, and yes there is the occasional moment when I get into a spot without it, but I don't need it to drive...

Side airbags aren't a concern, the bags in the Taurus aren't functional, and my ranger has only a drivers airbag...


What sort of compression would a healthy engine make? My Suzuki, with something off(like maybe cam timing) made 240+ psi, my old ranger with a bad carb and 172,xxx miles made 125-142 depending on throttle position(125 open and 142 shut)...

And I was also worried about rust, given that it's an Ohio car, but I don't know what to do, other than to take a screwdriver and inspection mirror with me...

And it had better have GOOD tires on it, as the Taurus just got new tires and wheels, like 450 miles ago...
 
  #16  
Old 01-25-2015, 08:36 PM
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mirror is absolutely fine. If it's a dealership, have them put it up on a lift for you so you my inspect the underneath/underbody rust, exhaust system, and signs of any leaks. Do this AFTER you take it for a test drive so that any real world leak that occurs when hot will hopefully show, often as liquid blown back onto the nearest frame structure or against the firewall.

Tires are a fine negotiating point if necessary. Stock equivs are about 100/ea from tirerack.

I think the compression service limit per Saturn (RIP) is/was 170ish, though I drove my 95 below that without misfires before rework.

Again do AFTER the test drive while the car is at operating temp.

And check those codes after the test drive -- I believe that you can do a loan a tool at autozone for the cheapie odbii reader you'd need. It won't show you if they just cleared the codes, but you'll see pending ones if they're there.

Also I've lived in three salt states (Wisc, NJ, PA), and the only underside rust on my 95 coupe is the exhaust system (meaning yes it's all evenly rusted.)
 
  #17  
Old 01-25-2015, 10:10 PM
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It appears we are operating on the same wavelength as far as the car goes... I plan to use my UltraGauge to read codes during the test drive, as well as other performance data... If the engine pings and the computer pulls timing to compensate, I'll see it... They don't have a lift(claim to use a mechanics lift at other location when in doubt on a trade), so I might have to take a set of ramps with me, either way, I want under this thing, before it stays under me...

I'll ask him if they would mind me doing a compression check when I look at it, as well as insist on seeing the underside...

On a related note, I need a huge favor...

The last detail of this deal is getting the thing home, without getting impounded, seized, etc... The guy claims that he can just slap a 30 day tag on it, and then I register it when I get back home to WV... Everyone else I talk to says that I have to pay OH tax, register it there, then pay WV tax and register it here(all within the timeframe of a temporary tag), which is more cash than I can swing at the moment... I have heard of getting a one-way permit, but it have no idea how they work...

Any ideas?
 
  #18  
Old 01-25-2015, 10:16 PM
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I've only bought cars out of neighboring states except once in FL. The dealership in FL charged me the sales tax, put a 30 day tag on it and I drove it home with zero problems from any law. Of course, I never got pulled over either. Went to the county clerks office, handed them the paperwork and all I had to pay for was the tag. Tax has been collected on a vechicle in one state, they can't collect it in another. As far as for buying cars in KY, AL or GA, I always just took a spare plate with me off one of my other cars and put it on. Drove the legal speed limits on the way home and never got stopped. I figured if I did, since I had proof that I'd just bought the car, they'd probably let me go with a warning.
 
  #19  
Old 01-25-2015, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubehayseed
1. I've only bought cars out of neighboring states except once in FL. The dealership in FL charged me the sales tax, put a 30 day tag on it and I drove it home with zero problems from any law. Of course, I never got pulled over either. Went to the county clerks office, handed them the paperwork and all I had to pay for was the tag. Tax has been collected on a vechicle in one state, they can't collect it in another.

2. As far as for buying cars in KY, AL or GA, I always just took a spare plate with me off one of my other cars and put it on. Drove the legal speed limits on the way home and never got stopped. I figured if I did, since I had proof that I'd just bought the car, they'd probably let me go with a warning.
1. That's an interesting thought, I'll have to ask at the soonest convenience...

2. Funny you mentioned that, that's exactly how I would handle the situation, were the car a little closer to me(it's 250 miles distant) Hell, that's how I got both my Ranger and Taurus home, use a tag from a vehicle I owned, drive carefully(but normally, as in speeding, 5 or so over, in areas to blend into traffic), and carry information pertinent to the tag I removed, as if to insinuate the imminent transfer of the tag(and insurance) in question...

I might be over-thinking this, but I don't wanna get stopped 120 miles from home, and get my new(and only) car impounded, and then have no ride anywhere because I no longer have a back-up... My co-worker depends on me for a ride, and I wouldn't want to screw us both over, for missing a small detail...
 
  #20  
Old 01-26-2015, 08:12 AM
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Unless you're just a total ***** to the LEO if you were to get stopped, I seriously doubt that they'd arrest you and impound your car. Most of those guys are damn good people, just doing their jobs.
 


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