Good evening to all !
#11
I have previous experience with fords and jaguars and never had a problem with schematics or manuals (as they are all available for download on the corresponding forums (for free)). Will check as soon as my Chilton arrives and will ask here if anything is not clear. For now, my main problem is the engine, everything else works, but the engine should be inspected internally to make the decision for replacement or repair.
Looks untouched.
Looks untouched.
Last edited by dauraf; 03-03-2023 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Add picture
#13
6 hours later, trying to get inside the engine, was not easy at all (compared to Escorts and Neons a Saturn is a real PITA). The intake manifold took me a good 2 hours. Everything beyond the radiator and coolant hoses looks OEM (untouched)
The second exhaust port shows possible damage to the second piston/cylinder/valve set...
Finally stuck at the harmonic balancer bolt, frozen in place, will check previous posts and hopefully will find any idea to release it
The second exhaust port shows possible damage to the second piston/cylinder/valve set...
Finally stuck at the harmonic balancer bolt, frozen in place, will check previous posts and hopefully will find any idea to release it
Last edited by dauraf; 03-05-2023 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Add text
#14
I've always used a six point socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long pipe (ratchet handle inside pipe) braced against the ground and just cranked the engine over to break them loose. Of course, you want to make sure which way the engine rotates (normally clockwise) and set the ratchet on the correct direction to loosen and then brace it on the correct side of the ground. You don't want it spinning up and into the engine compartment.
#17
Update...
Finally , engine disassembled, 2ng rod bearing worn to nothing, piston broken, send to shop for evaluation
2nd piston damage
wear
wear
dropped at the machine shop
2nd rod
2nd piston rod bearing leftovers
2nd piston
3rd cylinder
2nd piston damage
wear
wear
dropped at the machine shop
2nd rod
2nd piston rod bearing leftovers
2nd piston
3rd cylinder
#18
Ouch.
When people rebuild these engines, they will do an overbore and put in pistons with oversized rings to match. You buy them as a kit. Hopefully you can still find them out there. Cloyes Is the OEM for all the timing stuff so pick up a full timing kit.
If you are redoing this engine, I cannot suggest strong enough that you do both the upper and lower. Valve guide seals are a must and you've already pulled the head so it's no big deal. New valves and lifters, valve seats.... This kind of catastrophic event was most certainly caused by a low oil condition, so all bets are off as to the state of everything else. Obviously you could painstakingly measure it all or simply just refresh it if you want the vehicle to last and also to not burn oil which I'm quite sure it was hence the low oil condition.
If you decide not to repair this engine, I would be interested in purchasing some stuff if you decide to part it out. I'm looking to " restore " my 95 SC2.
When people rebuild these engines, they will do an overbore and put in pistons with oversized rings to match. You buy them as a kit. Hopefully you can still find them out there. Cloyes Is the OEM for all the timing stuff so pick up a full timing kit.
If you are redoing this engine, I cannot suggest strong enough that you do both the upper and lower. Valve guide seals are a must and you've already pulled the head so it's no big deal. New valves and lifters, valve seats.... This kind of catastrophic event was most certainly caused by a low oil condition, so all bets are off as to the state of everything else. Obviously you could painstakingly measure it all or simply just refresh it if you want the vehicle to last and also to not burn oil which I'm quite sure it was hence the low oil condition.
If you decide not to repair this engine, I would be interested in purchasing some stuff if you decide to part it out. I'm looking to " restore " my 95 SC2.
Last edited by derf; 03-30-2023 at 08:54 AM.