There are a few Chilton's books on the S series.
I'll post the book numbers. I use the 91-93 diagrams the most. They are quite detailed compared to the other books and the wiring seems pretty unchanged up through 97 for most things on the car. One of the later books has a nice layout of where everything K'Nex to the PCM. Well that's a weird autocorrect...

 

I think I got the wires properly jumped waiting on the car to "go to sleep" also upon working the passenger side im almost positive I heard the light sound of a door trying to unlock. So my theory is maybe its a dual issue and that is one of them, by simply removing the switch based on the diagram you guys have seen would simply removing it and trying the same method out of the question? Or could I have the deeper set issue of the RKE trying to work even though I have no fob?

Losing hair at a rapid pace over here.

 

In theory jumping the door lock should work.
have you checked the wiring loom going into the door for broken wires?

This is why I hate electric locks and windows

 

Ok, this is bizarre.

Power to the RKE module in 96 and 97 actually came through the 10A BODY fuse. In 98 and 99, the RKE is powered via the 15A CHIME fuse.

The difference is important because the Door lock switches, relays, and motors are also on the same BODY fuse in 97, so isolating RKE issues would be a real PITA. Let's not go there unless we have to.

The rke is fed power through an orange wire supposedly leading from the body fuse on the ipjb.

The white wire exiting the RKE goes directly to one of the inputs of the Chime module. I believe this is how the chime module is powered, but I am not certain. Seems weird. Anyway, since the same power is powering the lock system, it is possible that by lifting the door switch ground connection to jumper it, you got some chatter on one of the door lock switches.

I don't believe you can just delete the switches. The connections to the chime for the doors need to go to ground for each door switch. Which is the same thing as jumping the switch. Make sure when you are jumping the switches that the switch is truly not still in the circuit.

Sorry if this message is choppy. I fell asleep about seven times while writing it.

 

Had a buddy come by and look at it woth me we both think we got the jamb issue worked out my draw is smaller now and after a little more research and driving it to my buddys shop for him to look at yesterday we've narrowed it down to the passenger central lock switch in the passenger side cause the locks won't turn on that side unless by hand. Any luck getting the numbers on those wiring books so I can look into it and maybe spot a way around it. I have looked for the switch a few days and no luck. No SC in the auto salvage so im wondering if some other S Series from similar years are interchangeable. Kid at the yard had no idea.

 

Glad you are making progress. Please note it is extremely difficult to diagnose electrical problems in a vehicle when you only provide half the information. No I am not mad, there is no point in that, just saying I like to spend my time helping people, not running in circles for lack of information.

With that out of the way, here are the Chilton book Numbers

91 to 93. Part number 8419. I use the 93 wiring diagrams in this book for schematics for my 95 and 97 SC2 as I have found very little changed in the basic wiring harness with vehicles. 97 is a bit different as it was the first year of the second generation design of the SC series. .

You will likely have to buy a used one off eBay which is no big deal except that the ink on the pages is starting to diffuse making everything fuzzy which is not fun for wiring diagrams but I get by. So ask for a screenshot of the pages of the actual book you will receive from the seller.

1991 to 1998. 62300
1991 to 2002. 62300

Yes that is correct. Same part number. Basically printed in 98 then updated and printed in 2004.
They have different ISBN numbers if you want to go to that detail.

The 91 to 98 again will probably have to be purchased used. I have seen a few of the 91 to 2002 on sale on Amazon and other places. Books that simply never sold.

This book is quite a general useful for 97 because it contains the layout of pretty much every device on the car it sensor or otherwise with respect to which terminal it connects to on the PCM. It is one page of magic that I have not seen elsewhere. It's also useful for the 95 for me because it has the same diagram for the dohc. Reasonably complete wiring diagrams for 95 to 98. Note I only acquired this book about 5 years ago which is why I had been using the 93 wiring diagrams all of these years

Also contains an ABS control module pinout for 96-98 as well as the 1996 to '98 ABS trouble code numbers and definitions
91 to 02:

This book has 12 pages of spectacular detail of the wiring up until 1995 for all sensors etc. The rest of the diagrams are 96 to 98 96 - 99 and then 2000 and up for different sections of the vehicle like AC, fuel system etc. The rest of the sections of the book are annoyingly over generalized since the book is covering 11 model years at once. Some sections are divided by year but most are not. I've never compared the wiring diagrams applicable to 97 between the 91 to 02 book and the 91 to 98 book so I can't tell you which one will be more helpful for you.

So there you have that. Now I have to go back and read about the locking thing to be able to tell you what will and will not interchange.

 

What did you do to address the door jamb switches to lower the draw?

Not sure what you mean by the passenger door lock will only operate by hand. I understand that means you have to use the paddle on the switch and not the buttons.

But what happens when you try to use the buttons? Does it make noise but do nothing? Is it silent? Do you think it is pinned and either the open or closed position and therefore constantly drawing current?

These vehicles have a locked actuator in the door that does the physical work when the switch instructs it to. Could be bad switch, could be bad actuator, could be wiring.... Need more information about what it does and doesn't do properly.

For example, if you press unlock on the driver's door switch, does it unlock the passenger door as well or does just nothing happen on the passenger door.

 

I didn't so the electrical work myself i had my buddy do it at his garage ill have to ask him when I get the time after work, he did warn me that it makes zero noise for anything at all weather doors open keys in the ignition lights on ect. Which I was warned about so I was expecting as for the door it wouldn't make any noise unlocking the door, hes suggested I get and program a fob to do more tests. I plan to get the books first so we have more to go on and can look further into how the wiring in this car is supposed to be and how I can manage to either get around or fit another switch in its place if thats applicable. Also the lkq here just got a couple S series one 99 sc2 and a 95 Sl2 so if it is possible ill be stripping what I can from them to use myself.

 

So to fix the door jamb issue he took the sensor apart and was able to get it to make constant contact so it thinks the doors are closed and his idea on the switch is to use wiring from the current bad switch with either one from another s series or from a driver side switch which we can get relatively easily. Not sure how well that will work but at this point I'll let him try about anything.

 

Hoping some of the s series parts are interchangeable since there's now 2 in the LKQ lot here.