Now, keep in mind that I'm not a mechanic, but I THINK the BCM has something to do with the door locks. You might try accessing it with the battery disconnected, and try simply unplugging then plugging the connector back in several times. This action helps "sweep" the connections clean and make good contact. You can also use some CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner on the connector too.

 

Just seen the mower belt thing we have a Husqvarna specialty shop here its small but if you know the size or whatnot I could go take a look

 

I will look at a wiring diagram tomorrow.
Make that today.

It's not clear to me whether the PCM is monitoring closure or non closure of the switch. And if the switches are on the same electrical circuit as the dome lamp, etc or if the PCM has this switch on its own circuit and the state of that circuit determines when the current should flow in a different circuit that has the dome light.

Not trying to make it more complicated than it is, but it is the difference between direct control and indirect control of that lighting circuit.

21023335 ac Delco is the original part number

Not looking good.

 

Yeah I found the part number and come Tuesday possibly the part from some where house in Oregon. Still nothing set in stone.
I'll be researching bypassing it all together if possible to just tell the car the doors are always closed

 

Yes, it depends on whether that switch has a non-zero internal resistance. Otherwise you're just connecting the battery and grounding it when you bypass it. That's why I deleted my other post because it was easier to delete and not say and to fix that mess.

If it is OEM cats, don't get your hopes up. They're less things are always not what they are.

 

The bummer is that if you permanently have that switch closed, then you lose your headlight on reminder for when you open the door and the headlights are still on. I believe that only happens with the driver's door so you may be able to switch the passenger switch over to the driver switch to get it to stop making noise. I don't know if you tried that yet. It seems you should be able to cluge something out there. Aside from shape, length, weather needs to be 473,000 designs I don't get unless the internals are more than just a contact closure.

 

Both sides are bad and it wasn't oem cats someone once told me you almost never get the proper part from them, its some guy that I found on Facebook he apparently bought a bunch of Saturn stuff years ago and has a lot just sitting around. When you say the headlight warning quits is that just the one that uses the handbrake? I've not had the issue of the headlights staying on so long as the handbrake is up and the switches have been bad a few months now while I was chasing the draw. Truthfully I don't know enough about it.

 

No, I meant when you go to get out of the car and your headlights are still turned on, as soon as you open the door, if the headlight switch is still in the on position you get the chime, the fast chime, reminding you to turn the damn headlights off. But that is only triggered because the headlights are on and the car senses the driver's door is open.

 

I'm looking at a Chilton's wiring diagram. The switches don't look special. Simple contact closure. They are shown as normally open, no current in the open state. Electrically open in this case corresponds to the switch being closed physically, meaning door shut.

each of the door switches is wired to ground on one end (black wire) and runs directly to the chime module. That is physically located on the ipjb.

The passenger door jamb switch high side is a black wire with white stripe. The driver door jamb switch high side is a gray wire with a black stripe. The remote keyless entry system has a white wire going into the chime module.

The rke and passenger door wiring pathway then go further into the chime module.

The driver's door jam switch takes a different path inside the chime module. Makes sense considering the different warning chimes you can generate when leaving the key of the ignition or the lights on when the car is off and opening the driver's door.

Unfortunately it appears all of that logic is in the chime module programming itself. Or shall I say the drawing doesn't show any more detail.

I have read that RKE will not function properly if the door jamb switches are not sensed as closed. I believe it will still lock the doors even if they are open, but it will not enable anti theft.

So it looks like you can indeed jumper the high side to the ground in the connector to bypass each switch. You would lose all of your convenience chimes, but that beats a dead battery any day of the week

 

Definitely does beat a dead battery ill have to get in there tomorrow or this weekend and look into it, anyway I could get a copy of the diagrams or know where I can? I need to increase my knowledge of my own car for sure.