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The books recommend that you remove everything, in reality only remove what is in the way. I would not drain the oil or remove the oil pan until I knew what was bad. I wouldn’t remove the timing cover until I was ready to go back together. I would remove the head for a look and then decide on the best course of action. If the piston is damaged and the cylinder is scarred needing repair I would get another engine and freshen that one.
Also, I re-did my compression test, this time with the long style bit, and got much better results on the other three cylinders. (110, 105, 0, 115)
So, at that's nice.
That looks very nice under the cover. Do you have any way to blow compressed air into the spark plug hole? With #3 at top dead center with the valves closed when you blow air in the spark plug hole you will locate the problem. If the air goes out the exhaust it is one of those two valves. If it comes back out the intake, or down into the crankcase. If you pressurize the cooling system and blow water out of the radiator it could be the gasket.
As long as there is no fuel in the cylinders for the test. There may have been residual fuel pressure in the line that could have released itself through the injectors. MIGHT have something to do with the bizarre wet test results though I haven't put any effort into figuring how.
A hole in the Piston, especially from a valve ejecting itself, would lead to a huge smoke cloud from oil burning in the cat. You do not have this. DOHCs tend to burn up exhaust valves, and since the valve guide seals eventually leak oil into the cylinder, you end up with much less oil entering the cylinder. You will ultimately find out when you pull the head.
If those compression values are correct, your rings are likely worn. For perspective, the service limit stated by Saturn is 195 psi. You might want to repeat the compression test with the fuel injector fuse pulled.
The head gasket on there was, well, take a look. As well, I had no one, but two, in two different cylinders, these messed up guys (and one was in the misfire cylinder.) Looks like they work perfecty OEM (Original equipment mangled)
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say I found my problem haha.
And the cheery on top is that my timing chain guide are also broke. (Which could also be reason for my problems.)
So, my car had basically all of the problems.
Luckily the Cylinder walls look nice, the pistons are great (little dirty, but great), I will have to change the valve stem seals (Cause always change seals), but everything else looks great.
This car is going to sign when I'm done with it.
Should I change the valves though. They seem to get expensive quite fast. So if I don't have to get new ones, my wallet would be happy. Of course I need two new ones to replace the broken ones.
The other exhaust are all crusted with crap, but the intake look fine (if not a bit dirty).
I would ring it while the head is off, also replace all 8 exhaust valves. If you really want to stop the exhaust smoke it is rings on the S series cars. I picked and chose timing components on Rock Auto when I rebuilt my last L series L61. If you like the car do it once and drive it out.
I have to agree with Andy if you're planning on keeping the car. No point in half-assing a job when you're that far into it already. Now, if you're not going to keep it, then pass on the ring job, but definitely replace all of the valves. A new owner at least deserves that.
04-07-2018, 08:39 AM
