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96 sl2 tranny

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Old 02-04-2013, 08:24 PM
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Default 96 sl2 tranny

Well today after running around town ,got home went and put it in reverse and got a delay then a thump into reverse,
didnt like the sound, is it a silinoid or a shaft nut,
Just changed oil yesterday and put dex3 with wix tranny filter. 190,000 miles on the car, also all motor mounts been replaced this last saturday.
 
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:34 PM
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Make sure all mounts are tight...then search

Saturn reverse slam

On the net.......many a sufferer....many interesting proposed solutions.
 
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:41 AM
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Check your fluid level. I THINK you may need another quart.
 
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:40 AM
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Automatic transmissions have become largely electronic controlled rather than hydraulic or better said, depending on hydraulic pressure values to shift gears and such. Heat is a major enemy of electronics which is in many cases why there has been a significant increase in transmission problems in recent years. The orginal S series transmission certainly has been reliable but once problems starts causing the fluid to be contaminated by running too hot, this leads to further slippage which adds to increase in heat. It is a vicious cycle. A change in fluid in a timely manner will help eliminate transmission problems. While waiting too long, a change in fluid will not help or repair an already damaged transmission but it will help extend the life out some. With that in mind I have found that Lucas Transmission additive actually does help out in extending transmission life. While not a cure all, the use of it might be beneficial in helping to resolve currant problems. The bottom line is that it will not hurt to try it.
 
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:32 PM
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Fluid levels are up to parr, and next change ill add some lucas to the tranny, Ive already added Lucas to the motor and now it doesnt burn as much oil as it did.
 
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DOHC96
Fluid levels are up to parr, and next change ill add some lucas to the tranny, Ive already added Lucas to the motor and now it doesnt burn as much oil as it did.
There is a problem here with this approach.
Assuming there is a problem with your transmission AND that problem has already manifested itself with a deterioration of the transmission fluid. Continuing using the transmission with fluid that has broken down will do nothing but cause further problems.
Waiting until the NEXT change is already too late.
A diagnostic that is important is to try to determine the current condition of the fluid.
That generally is determining what it looks and smells like.
Good fluid is reddish. I would assume the actual shade is a function of time, the better the fluid condition the better the color red.
Fluid that had deteriorated is brownish.
And stereotypically smells like burnt cork.
If that is the condition of your fluid as we are typing, it already past the time that the next change should be scheduled. The problem is when is it a good time to add an additive.
The answer generally is, before the next change.
Remember one thing. If an additive can actually accomplish something and by in large an additive purchased has already accomplished it's primary goal. It has removed money from your pocket.
It needs to be installed now. And if continue use of the transmission is scheduled for the next change, transmission fluid is cheaper than having your transmission rebuilt.
 
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:01 AM
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Unc, '96 stated he just changed the fluid and filter (in the original post).
{note to self: Unc losing memory}

'96: have you done the internet search i indicated above? It'll take more than additives to tame this.
 
  #8  
Old 02-15-2013, 05:01 PM
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Yes I did Derf, and the fluid that came out was a nice red and had several freinds ( machanics) smell the fluid and said it looks good and doesnt smell burnt(before I changed it), but I still changed it with a better filter on it and fresh fluid. I read up on the rev slam and they are talking about additives and putting the car rear bumper against a wall or blocking it with it in reverse with the additives of your choosing, and leave in reverse for 20-40 minutes, Im thinking as easy as it is to change the valve body for $175.00 on eabay for a rebuilt certified body. what im getting is the silinoid is gumming up or is just going out same with hard shifts and slippage, and the slippage can be sevral things I know but was told that the valve body can do this too.I am getting slippage in 2-3 but not bad for the age, not realy noticiable.Update hasnt doesnt did it again so far ( knocking on wood).
 
  #9  
Old 02-17-2013, 06:19 AM
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I missed that the fluid had been changed as part of things. The point is pretty much taken thought that transmission failure feeds on itself.
If it is not working correctly and subject to slippage that generates additional heat. If a fluid change and and additive have not done anything constructive than it is time to bite the bullet and spend what it takes to get it apart and serviced.
If you expect it to give any quality life and operation from this point on.
Continuing to drive it in a failure mode leads to continuing failure.
 
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