So, I made some progress with my LSJ...



Mating surface clean, new gasket laid down, and ARP studs ran in, hand tight, with Lucas assembly lube

Head is on and to final torque... I went in three steps, 25,55, and then ARPs spec of 80lb/ft of torque(using Lucas assembly lube), using the head tightening sequence in the repair manual I bought... Engine is also in time, but with no chain or guides on it for now...


Timing cover and valve cover need put on(after engine is timed), the crank pulley needs cleaned up and a new bolt ordered(stupid TTY bolts), and then it's ready for transplanting, after I get flywheel and PP bolts and a new TOB...

 

Is the cyl head pic w valves the final assembly pic prior to install?

The left hand intake valve on all four cylinders does not seem to be fully seated based on what I can see from the picture. Not sure why that would be ??

 

They looked fine before I bolted them onto the block... Yesterday, I got the timing chain on and the engine timed, but I can't get the friggin chain tensioner to work... I reset it, but it wouldn't release when I hit it

 

is it a new one or the original?

MAybe it's part of the mystery............

 

The chain tensioner is original to the engine I'm assuming... They also use oil pressure to fully tension the chain, so I'm not sure if it's actually releasing or not, when I whack it with the hammer... I looked at it again(removed it) and found out that it had released, but when I put it back in and hit it, I can't tell if anything has happened... Should I hit the main tensioner body, or the piston body? How hard, I wonder? I've had to file off a couple gouges on the outside of the main tensioner body...

 

Just hit it the same way you did the first time, man. It seems to have worked. I've never been inside one of these engines, so can't tell you.

 

I can't see well enough into the timing chain area to really know if the tensioner deployed, the guide still wiggled even with the tensioner deployed(last time)... If I had known the tensioner deployed, I honestly wouldn't have taken it out... I still have to seal the oil pan, attach the front cover and valve cover, and then buy the bolts to bolt the clutch assembly on... I can't torque anything for now due to lifting/exertion limitations, so the crank pulley will stay off for now...