P0172
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,387
From: Slightly off center
What brand sensor, where purchased, and how did you connect the pigtail to the wiring in the car?
The code indicates that the sensor is not cycling enough or as much as expected in its readings. I would look at bank one Sensor one on your scan tool and you will probably see a lot less activity than the previous one you showed us. You may also see places where the signal goes to zero.
My guess is that it is a poor electrical connection issue, since you passed the oxygen sensor and oxygen sensor heater readiness before this happened. Could be the pins of the connector not seating properly in the connector because one or the other is misaligned and not mating with its pin.
More likely it has to do with either a bad solder joint or a bad butt splice depending on how you connected it. If you did neither of those then that is almost definitely your issue.
I opt for soldering and shrink wrapping each wire individually then shrink wrapping all of them for stability. When possible I stagger the wire lengths so that the connection points are not all bundled up in one spot, they are spread out . Takes more heat shrink but who cares.
This type of electrical measurement is a rather low voltage and therefore any imperfections in the connection will usually affect the apparent output
I would try wiggling your wire connections around where they meet the car wiring once the engine is warmed up and in closed loop. While you monitor it on your scanner.
Let us know what you find
The code indicates that the sensor is not cycling enough or as much as expected in its readings. I would look at bank one Sensor one on your scan tool and you will probably see a lot less activity than the previous one you showed us. You may also see places where the signal goes to zero.
My guess is that it is a poor electrical connection issue, since you passed the oxygen sensor and oxygen sensor heater readiness before this happened. Could be the pins of the connector not seating properly in the connector because one or the other is misaligned and not mating with its pin.
More likely it has to do with either a bad solder joint or a bad butt splice depending on how you connected it. If you did neither of those then that is almost definitely your issue.
I opt for soldering and shrink wrapping each wire individually then shrink wrapping all of them for stability. When possible I stagger the wire lengths so that the connection points are not all bundled up in one spot, they are spread out . Takes more heat shrink but who cares.
This type of electrical measurement is a rather low voltage and therefore any imperfections in the connection will usually affect the apparent output
I would try wiggling your wire connections around where they meet the car wiring once the engine is warmed up and in closed loop. While you monitor it on your scanner.
Let us know what you find
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 46
Bosch direct fit
O'Reilly's
Solder
shrink tubed
I wonder if before I got the pigtail, my poor connection could have damaged the sensor.
I will record the switching, seemed pretty active to me. But I don't know exactly what I'm looking for. But will now look for any drops to 0v.
Thank you!
O'Reilly's
Solder
shrink tubed
I wonder if before I got the pigtail, my poor connection could have damaged the sensor.
I will record the switching, seemed pretty active to me. But I don't know exactly what I'm looking for. But will now look for any drops to 0v.
Thank you!
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,387
From: Slightly off center
The old s cars puke on Bosch O2 sensors. Factoid that irrationally keeps me from ever recommending them. Diff engine different everything.
If you look up O2 sensors on Rock Auto, the AC Delco OEM and one of the denso's have identical sensors pictured. No, just because the picture is the same doesn't mean it's exactly what you'll get, but based on my earlier denso statement, I have found it to be true at least for the older vehicles older Saturns I mean. Glad to hear it is working out better. I have never seen an upstream sensor without the cage. Doesn't mean they don't exist I have just never seen that design for upstream.
If you bought a limited lifetime replacement remanufactured warranty type alternator at a local parts store, somewhere between one and two years is often the expected life. Not always, but there is a reason they cost so much less. Sure you get free replacements forever . You also get to do the work over and over. if it is easily accessible on your vehicle maybe not a big deal but....
Per Andy, need to sort out the charging situation. Trying to diagnose a vehicle with a battery that is not fully charged and holding a charge is not of much value. Brand new batteries do go bad but likely an alternator issue. You should also be able to take it to O'Reilly's and have them do a load test on the charging system for free. Do not buy anything from them . Just post the results please.
If you look up O2 sensors on Rock Auto, the AC Delco OEM and one of the denso's have identical sensors pictured. No, just because the picture is the same doesn't mean it's exactly what you'll get, but based on my earlier denso statement, I have found it to be true at least for the older vehicles older Saturns I mean. Glad to hear it is working out better. I have never seen an upstream sensor without the cage. Doesn't mean they don't exist I have just never seen that design for upstream.
If you bought a limited lifetime replacement remanufactured warranty type alternator at a local parts store, somewhere between one and two years is often the expected life. Not always, but there is a reason they cost so much less. Sure you get free replacements forever . You also get to do the work over and over. if it is easily accessible on your vehicle maybe not a big deal but....
Per Andy, need to sort out the charging situation. Trying to diagnose a vehicle with a battery that is not fully charged and holding a charge is not of much value. Brand new batteries do go bad but likely an alternator issue. You should also be able to take it to O'Reilly's and have them do a load test on the charging system for free. Do not buy anything from them . Just post the results please.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 46
I added voltage to my scanner testing and it comes up short.
most if the time, under full load, it maxes out at 13v.
But I observed it drop to 10.3 for a time.
I guess I will head to Advance and have them do a test, see what they say.
I thought I would be clever and just replace the voltage regulator. I found one place
https://store.alternatorparts.com/m5...IaAg7JEALw_wcB
So I'm not sure I want to do this just yet. A new alternator is not in my budget right now.
most if the time, under full load, it maxes out at 13v.
But I observed it drop to 10.3 for a time.
I guess I will head to Advance and have them do a test, see what they say.
I thought I would be clever and just replace the voltage regulator. I found one place
https://store.alternatorparts.com/m5...IaAg7JEALw_wcB
So I'm not sure I want to do this just yet. A new alternator is not in my budget right now.