The two wires that broke off the horn are a dark green one and a black one going to the ground splice. The connector is still attached to the horn, the wires are broken off. You should find a small harness with two wires. The dark green one comes out of the bottom of the fuse panel C one pin B3. C1 has 68 openings.

You are in the correct area to find a damaged section of the harness.

 

Flash to pass tested both high beams. Flash to pass works with the key in any position. Headlights only work with the key in the run position. Check again please

 

Thank you so much for all your time and support given I really do appreciate it honestly yous cannot understand how thankful I am !

And with the keys out of the ignition it still reacts the same way. I am going to the junk yard tomorrow to see the same model/year Saturn to see if I could find something and get some wires for the horn to splice and just to get an overall better visual of what might needs to be done without potentially damaging my actual Saturn lol

And I did that as well it’s the same response. I just don’t understand the power loss and why it’s now affecting the left side front passenger headlight too ,i understand I have to check a the wires more can do more troubleshooting/testing , I just can’t see where I could have messed up to make the passenger headlight have issues when just two days ago it was fine and now reacting the same way as the driver side , the only way the headlights work is if I’m pulling forward (as if I was flashing the high beams)
the switch by the wheel inside the car and holding it and all the lights (parking light, low beam, high beam) turns on both sides still only in the front , back has no issues

when I have it in auto none of the bulbs light up and when I turn the headlights on all bulbs don’t work on both sides , the high beams don’t stay on neither only if I’m physically holding that switch do all bulbs work both sides I’ve never had an issue with the left side. So this has definitely became a bit more of a challenge lol hakkuna mattata right?! lol

That’s with the switch being pulled forward (as if flashing high beams ( the keys are completely out of ignition and in my pocket lol)

Position switch is in

Headlights how they are with switch being pulled

Switch released with same position as it was held

Headlights how they are with switch released 😕

 

I go back to work tomorrow so it will be this late when I get home. With the key on will the lights work at all? High or low. Flash to pass seems to work but it should not make the low beam bulbs come on, only the high beams.
Andy

 

Okay thank you

and with the keys in it’s the same reaction/issue and I know that’s what I can’t understand it especially since it had just started occurring that’s why I stated I’m unsure where I could have went wrong or messed up I didn’t tamper with much besides unbolt the splice rack and take out the grey piece and put it back lol. to make the headlights on both sides react this way is odd considering Friday only issue was the high beam on the driver side not working and low beams were dim on driver side.. now this conundrum lol

 

The headlights ground inside the car. The turn signals and horn ground at the splice you removed. You stated that you have replaced the fender and hood due to an MVA. The horn looks like MVA damage, I suspect the wiring harness was damaged in the same MVA.
Have you looked at the headlight schematic? All the headlight wires run through the underhood fuse panel before going into the passenger compartment wiring.
The front lighting harness probably runs back to the fuse panel along the driver’s side frame rail.

If this was mine I would remove the fuse panel and ohm test each circuit for the lights based on the schematic.

 

Did you ever locate the problem wiring?