I will jump in here, after rereading the thread I see this is a pre existing problem and the new headlight assemblies did not change anything.
First question is with all bulbs connected look at the hazard lights and tell me what you see as they flash. Is the driver’s front still fast?
Second what happens in park lights only, that is the middle position on the switch?

 

Looks like there is a major ground splice pack just behind the driver’s headlight. I would start there. Here are a couple drawings of the location, it is bolted to the top of the frame horn and you should be able to see it under the hood. It is G101 in these drawings. Please unbolt and remove the plastic cover, inside you will find 12 small black wires on a metal bar that has one bolt hole. You will probably find some corrosion causing high resistance. Please post pictures so we can continue.
Andy

 

Yes you are correct is it a reoccurring issue , the vehicle was impacted directly on that side twice. I replaced the cosmetic damage (bumper, fender, hood, headlights, and tuneup like oil brakes suspension etc) there was an oil leak at some point I believe that issue is resolved (knock on wood lol)

the horn doesn’t work aswell. After a bit of research last night that’s what made me recall the horn issue, the connectors look fine so maybe just the horn itself is bad. I seen it could potentially correlate with the headlight wiring issue on the driver side still unsure but I wanted to make sure I stated that in case it does !

unfortunately where I am located it is raining for the next couple of days and I do not have a shed/garage/tent to work under at the moment, when the weather clears for a bit I’ll be sure to take a look and reconnect the bulbs and try out the hazards and parking lights and get more access in the car to post/update !! Thank you so much for the enormous help and diagram as well Andy !

 

FYI the horn also grounds there. Years ago the horn quit on my L and then I realized some of the cooling fan speeds were missing. All the problems were in a ground splice in the same location on my car. My battery sits right there in my car also adding to the corrosion issues.

 

Hello so the weather has cleared up a bit this morning and I think I have unbolted G101 shown in picture below if not atleast I have a bit more access today to unbolt or uncover what needs to be and I tried out the hazards and they don’t blink slow

I opened the cable covers and the cables themselves don’t look bad I did not unwrap the electrical tape around the ends that are in the connectors but they look pretty okay too



Front of the horn

Back of horn , I do see the (A,B) sensor/connector is broken


Turning signal connector in my hand and over view of headlight wiring

Connection part of headlight wires going into more of the wiring harness behind frame horn going into fuse/relay box

Connection part of daytime light, fog light


Wires into the connectors for low beam and high beam

What I assume could be the splice rack for the wires ?

Wired into assumed splice rack

Fuses/relays for under hood next to the battery terminal

 

You are correct, that is the splice pack. Can you remove the plastic cover? Each black wire attaches the steel piece that bolts to the car. The corrosion I found was at the connection under the plastic. One of those black wires is the ground for the horn. I think if you can release the gray cover from the black plastic the black part will slide over the bolt down tab.

 

Your turn signals and running lights ground there also. The headlights are a completely different setup. You will be able to check resistance between the splice pack and the turn signal wiring with your meter.

 

Are the wires still connected to the horn. Plastic can be broken if the wires are still connected and not crushed. The two wires cannot touch bare wire or a fuse will blow. One of the wires gets 12 volts when you press the horn and the other one goes to the ground splice.

 

The headlamps functions are controlled by the body control module. That being said the high beams are controlled at the same time by the BCM. If both headlight fuses are good both are controlled the same and are grounded at the same spot inside the car. So if one high beam works correctly then so should the other. You will need to open the harness and look for a pinch point from the previous body damage.

There are connectors on the underside of that fuse panel that the headlight wiring runs through. Both in and out. We can walk through ohm checking the front harness but it would probably be faster to uncover the wires and look. Is the fuse panel on the driver’s side? If so the damage may be under the fuse panel.

 

I have been struggling still trying to access the wires in the splice rack. I was able to get out the grey piece but the black piece that’s supposed to slide was not budging and I don’t want to damage anything with to much force

now we have a different issue when I disconnected the splice rack to try and access the wires I reconnected it after having a bit of trouble completely accessing the wires. And tried to reread the voltages coming from each light connector they all had off readings

so I proceeded with plugging the bulbs back in and trying them all again. When I flashed the high beams they began to work as well as (ALL) the lights came on. and when I stopped flashing the high beams (ALL)the lights go off except for the parking lights. and when I try to put on just the low beams they don’t work still the turning signal blinks fast not the hazards and that is now for ( BOTH driver and passenger) sides and the high beams do not work at all unless your holding/flashing them on the switch by the wheel. They do not stay on unless so.

the horn doesn’t have any visible wires/connectors connected to it and almost looks melted at a bottom point.

I tried submitting a video of the lights in 30 second increments and it’s not allowing me to, but I do have a video of how the lights are preforming.

Horn , nothing was plugged in and I cannot find the correct connector in the car meant for the horn