I would buy a used engine from a wrecking yard that uses car-part.com to advertise their inventory. I wouldn’t bother taking the engine apart unless you are curious. There will be lots of junk parts since the bearing failed and all that metal is in everywhere there was oil at one time.

 

Okay, thank you. It looks like I can get one local for about $550. I will look at some others too

I an envisioning needing some special tools, like an engine hoist...

Anything else? I didn't see, and didn't up ask, but is there usually a "core" charge?

 

You can rent an engine hoist at a tool rental yard. They will probably want your old engine back for scrap value. Don’t take the core to them until you are done. You will want to make sure you have everything you need from your old engine. Sensors, harnesses, manifolds and mounts may be different between whatever the engine comes from and your car. Buy a Haynes or Chilton type manual, they are written for the home mechanic with not to much experience. You will need a floor jack to hold up the transmission while you lift out the engine. You will want to replace the front crank seal and maybe the rear one while the engine is out. Look closely at the water pump also, there is an inexpensive tool to hold the balance shaft chain in place and the time to change the pump is when the engine is out.

 

Awesome! Thank you

I have found an engine pretty close to me for $400 ($65 core charge). Has a cracked Oil Pan they say. So I would make sure my oil pan is cleaned out and ready to use instead. They have another but its $650. Lower mileage and I dont have to deal with the Oil Pan. But the $400 looks attractive to me.

Found another one close by for $550. So its in between.

All were found from car-part.com. And you are right, I dont want to take things apart. I dont need to be curious...

 

If your oil pan is not damaged and you want to use it take it completely apart to clean it. Remove any shields and the oil tube, the screen on the bottom will be full of crap. On my $100 rollover engine I had to replace the oil pan also.

 

def go for the complete engine. Just wondering (since I've never personally sourced an engine for a car, what kind of warranty do most places offer, if any? 90 days?

 

That is pretty standard and most just provide another engine but not labor. Most will give an oil pressure and compression report before purchase. If they spend the money and it is expensive to advertise on Car-part.com they are a reputable wrecking yard. I would personally buy the one with the broken oil pan so I could look inside without compromising the warranty. If it has over 100,000 miles I would replace the water pump while it is out as well as the crank seals.

 

I will get the engine this week, as well as a hoist. I've cleaned up the oil pan and am working on disconnecting everything.

As I removed all the wiring harness connections, I wondered about the AC compressor. After I remove the belt, I'm thinking I can unbolt the compressor without removing the AC lines. Will that work?

Engine through the top is the plan.

 

On the L series you can place the compressor on the radiator core support and leave the system charged. You may have to remove the crank pulley and the engine mount to block piece to be able to pull the engine. The torque converter stays with the transmission but the flywheel sticks out a little bit.

 

Well, I got all the stuff off and found all the bolts. Attempting to pull the engine, but it won't clear the transmission. It's not just the flywheel... And transmission oil (I guess) is now flowing.
Fun.