Hey, peeps. So, I wanted to replace some failing parts on my 2000 SL1 and among those were some EVAP parts. This is what I originally bought (didn't get it from Advance, just wanted to show what it is):

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...vapor+canister

I bought a new-old stock Delco canister for a really good price, but when I researched it further, I realized that I may have bought the wrong part.

The one I ended up replacing was the purge valve that is behind the engine (and I contorted my hands in ways I didn't know I could to get to it). I guess if it isn't for my car, it's not a big deal, I think I paid like $15 for it. I see it might fit certain Corvettes too, maybe numbers are wrong?

If it is for my car, where the hell is it? I've been all over underneath and I can't find it.

 

Canister is back at the tank.

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Home >> Saturn >> 2000 >> SL L4-1.9L SOHC VIN 8 >> Repair and Diagnosis >> Powertrain Management >> Emission Control Systems >> Evaporative Emissions System >> Evaporative Emission Control Canister >> Service and Repair

Evaporative Emission Control Canister: Service and Repair

TOOLS REQUIRED
^ SA9805E Canister Purge Line Disconnect Tool
^ 7000081-SAT3 ScanTool

Removal
The [1][2]EVAP emissions canister is located in a molded cavity on the top of the vehicle fuel tank.




1. Remove fuel filler pipe and fuel tank from vehicle.
2. Disconnect the 5/8" 90° fuel tank vapor inlet hose fitting from the canister.




3. Remove the EVAP canister retainer clip at the upper end of the canister.
4. Disconnect the 5/16" 90° fuel vapor/canister purge fitting from the canister (use tool SA9805E).
5. Remove the canister from the fuel tank.

Installation
1. Place the [1][2]EVAP emissions canister in the pocket on the top fuel tank. Make sure that the canister vent hose is positioned towards the middle of the fuel tank.

NOTE: If a replacement canister is being installed, make sure that the vent hose is installed on the canister prior to installation on the fuel tank. Orient the molded vent hose on the canister so that when it is installed on the fuel tank the "S" bend will be pointing down.

2. Install the canister retainer clip to the fuel tank, assuring that the clip is over the lower flange of the canister before "snapping" the clip into the locked position.

NOTE: Install the retainer for the purge fitting quick connect into the female portion of the connector. Care must be taken to assure that the locking tab is centered in the window of the female connector.

(1) Canister Purge (2) Vapor (3) Vent




3. Install the 90° 5/16" purge line fitting to the purge port on the canister.
4. Install the 90° 5/8" vapor line fitting to the tank port on the canister.
5. Install fuel tank and fuel filler pipe.
6. Perform the "Service Bay Diagnostic Test" for the evaporative emission system using the Scan tool. This test will verify the integrity of the vapor handling areas of the fuel system.

pro multis · About Operation CHARM

 

Well, no wonder I couldn't find it, that's a terrible place to have it. I hope I have the right one, their pic doesn't match what I bought. Welp, time to get it back in the air!

 

You purchased a canister solenoid not a canister.

 

If it was a canister, and you had purchased it, and it was for an earlier generation of s cars, it would have been at the right front of the vehicle to the side of the engine. But it's not because that's not what it is

 

Well, one of my codes was for a vapor solenoid (or however it was worded), I thought that was the canister too since it was so big. I'll know more when I get it up in the air again and look around

 

If it is evap, then it is either the EVAP vent solenoid or the evap purge a solenoid. The Purge so annoyed is that thing attached to the back of the block, well technically the side, closest to the firewall, where you get to contort your hand and leave skin behind. If you do it enough times, you lose enough skin that your hand begins to fit.

Don't know where the vent solenoid is on the third gen s cars but expect it to be back by the tank, possibly above it. Check the charm.li site for a diagram.

 

Yeah, I replaced the one at the block, I had to do a water pump and wheel bearing, so while it was up in the air, I did that too. Thankfully, I didn't leave any skin behind, but the car sure heard a few new words that day when I was trying to put the thing back in... if only it was a stud instead of a bolt.

Apparently, the previous owner(s) knew of the problem because there is silicone around the rubber fitting where the two plastic hoses meet up at the throttle body. I now the adage is "don't just throw parts at it", but for the prices I was paying AND they're OEM parts, it's not a big deal to me to just replace them.

 

In the future, it doesn't look like it, but it's actually easier to access the purge solenoid from above. Then you are truly ripping skin, but it's all over a lot quicker and it's only 70% as blind as doing it from underneath

If I remember correctly, you need to put one hand down there, then jam the other hand in front of it and hand yourself the tool because you can't get the tool and your hand down there at the same time in the same place through the same opening for the same reason for the....

 

Ha! I like my skin too much to try that, but I had the car up anyway doing the water pump and wheel bearing, so it was no skin off my... hand

Also, off topic, shoutout to the engineer that said "let's put the water pump right where you can't get a torque wrench".