In the summer, the final gear will kick in after about 4 minutes of driving. But now in winter, and seemingly longer and longer, it can take 10 minutes of driving or more for the final gear to ever engage.

I think it might be related to engine temperature. I notice that when i came to a stop light, the engine went from high idle to low idle and from then on engaged final gear through trip.

I also notice if I let my car idle for 5 minutes It can decrease the time it disallows the final gear.

Engine temp seems be always near all way cold side, after trips will be about 15% off the way of cold side of meter.

is this normal? Im afraid to even go 65 mph because the revs go high in previous gear. The final gear usually kicks in at around 45-50 mph so when stuck in previous gear it is hard to go fast without feeling like I'm burning money away in gas

 

Is your antifreeze level up to where it should be? Maybe your coolant temp sensor is flaky and needs replacing. I don't know as I'm NOT a mechanic. Just guessing and speculating.

 

FWIW, sounds like your thermostat is stuck open or your ECTS has failed. I would plug in a full-fledge scanner that can provide real-time data and see what temperature your PCM thinks the coolant is at. It may not actually be at the temperature indicated if the ECTS has failed.

The average S car temperature reading on the dash gauge is somewhere between the first tick and the center tick while moving.

I do not know if it infers transmission fluid temperature from the ECTS reading for the engine and might be surmising that the transmission is much much colder than it really is. ECTS failure would indicate usually about -35°. So I suppose that could be the issue but I am not a transmission specialist by any means and your question has not come up on the forum in the 18 years I've been here

 

True Derf, some vehicles delay high gear and lockup to aid warmup. I however do not know if this is the case with this S series car.

 

Okay, the S car TAAT transmission does in fact have a temperature sensor.

If there is a delay due to temperature, I assume it would use the transmission temperature sensor to make the decision whether to delay or not. It appears to be the same sensor that is used for the ECTS. Meaning it is the same part number, there are two separate sensors for those purposes.

This transmission temperature sensor reading would not affect the reading from temperature sensor in the head. The one in the head is the one that the dash gauge indicates for. That is awful grammar, sorry.

Last step into hypothetical land. I suppose if the two temperature sensors red completely differently, the PCM might conclude that one of them is bogus but I would think it would throw a code. Though these cars never throw a code for an ECTS failure so....

I would get the ECTS situation straightened out first so that the reading is correct and the engine is operating at the proper temperature. Then see if there is still an issue.

 

Hello I went to oriellys and booght a 18$ sensor that was brass, replacing the sensor that had the 2 wires, I read online that the one higher up with 1 wire is for the instrument panel

Unfortunately it is still reading almost all way cold in the gauge in driver seat, and not letting me go much faster than 40 mph.. much to the anger of other drivers lol (unless I want to slam gas very far) , refusing to go into upper gear sometimes for most of trip 20 min trip

what should be the next thing to try? I'm confused by how to test the temperature , what tool would I need for this

Thanks for help

Edit:

Forgot to say a ton of coolent came out when removed sensor, even tho car had sat for 4 days and i jacked up the side, I wonder if this implies the part that controls coolant level is stuck open? Not sure how to test if that is malfunctioning,

 

Update:

I tried letting car run for about 5 minutes, touching the hose that seems connected to coolant, it slowly got warmer ,

I drove 18 min, and touched hose and top of engine again, hose was warmish but not uncomfortable , engine didnt burn to touch top of either

Could this indicate my thermostat is stuck open?

 

Yep, that could be a good indicator of an open thermostat. Is that the OEM stat? If so, you should just go ahead and replace it. I suggest you test the new one before you install it. Bring a small pan of water to a boil and put the thermostat in it and see if it opens. Then, CAREFULLY remove it and watch it as it cools off to see if it closes. If so, then install it in the car. Don't remove the old one until you're sure the new one is good unless you have a backup vehicle to get you back to the parts store.

 

Do mot use a motorrad or AC Delco professional stat. They are one in the same and are known for problems. Get a stant and be happy. OEM was a Stant

 

I saw this mentioned in another post, is it true the O ring is missing or incorrect when buying thermostats? Not sure if I should try to buy a o-ring too seperately

Also,

on rockauto I only see for sale:

MOTORAD324185 185 Degree; Assembly $5.79

MOTORAD 324192 192 Degree; Assembly $11.13

GATES 33528 185 Degree Integrated Thermostat Housing $12.21 [PICTURE HAS MOTORAD ON PART]

FOUR SEASONS 85620 Thermostat Housing OE Temperature $18.87

DORMAN 9022036 Assembly 185 Degrees Fahrenheit $6.79

DORMAN 9022129 Assembly 192 Degrees $14.84

Are any of those worth getting or should I look elsewhere? I also am unsure which temperature is preferable, sorry not the best at buying parts lol