Saturn S Series Sedan SL, SL1, and SL2

Sputtering when accelerating

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  #1  
Old 04-20-2007, 12:41 AM
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Hey all - I recently bought a 92 SL1 from my sister and have begun to have a problem. When I accellerate after shifting, the carloses power, kind of like it's getting choked out. Possibly a fuel filter, but I'm not sure. I guess that would probably be the cheapest and easiest thing to try first. It looks like a lot of people on this forum know quite a bit about these cars, so I thought I'd look to you all for help. Thanks!!
 
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Old 04-20-2007, 12:51 AM
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change engine coolant temp (2 wire) sensor. Replace with brass style replacement.

Replace connector as well (Saturn only part---$10 -- just do it)

Derf



 
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:15 PM
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Just wondering: But is this the same sensor that control you're temp gauge or is it for ECU use only?
 
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:34 AM
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Up through 95 they had separate temp sensors

---2 wire for the ECTS

---1 wire for the dash temp gauge



From 96 on they have just the 2-wire.
 
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Old 04-21-2007, 01:19 PM
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Hmmm... Cuz I still haven't changed mine out... Primarily because it reads fine from the dash board... I think since I bought it with most of the engine Frankestein'd, it's already been done...
 
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Old 04-21-2007, 02:15 PM
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:32 PM
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Alright folks, a little more info. I did the diagnostic check and it gave me codes 32 and 45. Any ideas??? I cleaned the EGR valve this morning and it seemed to be moving freely. Thanks again!
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Old 04-23-2007, 09:14 AM
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32 is EGR system fault--sounds like you've tried to address
45 is 02 sensor indicates system rich. This one may have been triggere by your ECTS failure,which typically makes the engine run very rich.

Replace ECTS before going after 02 sensor

Derf

 
  #9  
Old 04-24-2007, 12:13 AM
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Thanks Derf. I replaced the coolant temp sensor with no results. I had my brother in law look at it, and after I started it for him, he could immediately tell by a loud clicking noise that the engine was making that my timing chain was in serious need of repair. We took the valve cover off and the chain was definitely loose. If the chain jumped a tooth and got out of time, could that be what's causing my problem? I'm going to replace the timing set, but am curious if that will fix my problem. Again, thanks for all of the help.


Seth
 
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Old 04-24-2007, 01:25 AM
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Although you replaced the coolant sensor Derf may have forgotten to let you know that the two-wire connector may be corroded and not make good electrical connections so looking at it should reveal if its corroded from the leaking coolant sensor. Either take a connector from a junk yard air temperature sensor, a similar but just as useful connector from a computer (after splicing it in just silicone the rest to seal it onto the end of the sensor), or buy one from the dealer ($30?). The coolant sensor works on low voltage, 0-4.9v DC as do many others on thecar. If the timing chain jumped a tooth there may be no engine running at all or worse, damage from pistons hitting valves. Are you sure you replaced the LOWER sensor, that's the two-wire one while the single wire one is for the temperature gauge.


Code 32 EGR valve that you cleaned.


Code 45 engine rich - take care of the coolant sensor/wiring connector and that should eliminate this code.
 


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