Hello.
I have a 1999 SL2 DOHC five speed manual transmission. For the last four years or so the transmission has been hard to get in gear sitting still. A lot of times the motor has to be shut off before I can put it in gear, low gear. Sitting still it has also been difficult to put in second gear or the other gears. Sometimes it is not as difficult to shift as others. Two different mechanics have said the clutch is going out. Pulling up to a stop sign and slowing down I can shift into low gear with out any problem,
From what I know of clutches going out, I can't see how a clutch would last this long. My question is does this sound like the clutch is going out or is there some other problem to look for. Thank you for any and all input.

 

I have 235K on a 95 SC2. Original clutch.

Since it will shift without motor running, likely not a shift cable or bushing issue but you should pull the center console and inspect

Sounds more to me like the clutch is not fully disengaging when you push the pedal in. Which means clutch master slave issue (hydraulics). You can search the web and find a simple test measurement you can make to confirm this. You measure hydraulics movement at the slave cylinder with a paperclip. If it does not move a minimum distance, it condemns the master/slave as the issue.

EDIT: Unless it hits a hard stop which prevents it from moving further

It is an expensive part but relatively simple to change.
Just be sure that's the problem before you $$$ on it.

 

If the hydraulics don't fix it, it may be a seized pilot bearing.

 

This is NOT a secondary test by any means, but:

Start the car in the driveway
put it in neutral
let it warm to operating temp
note the rpm

Hold the clutch in (while in neutral)
note the rpm

depress the clutch and put into 1st, but KEEP HOLDING THE CLUTCH IN.
Any change in RPM in 1st w the clutch in vs neutral w the clutch in?

The only physical difference would be that the RPMs would be expected to drop a tiny amount (or drop and become a little less stable) in 1st w clutch in IF the hydraulics are not pushing out far enough to fully disengage the clutch OR there is a internal physical issue per DTruck that will not permit proper movement within the trans.

Also, do you smell burning when you are holding in the clutch in 1st?
This would be a telltale sign that the clutch is not fully disengaged (for whatever reason)

Another test would be to hold the clutch pedal fully in while in gear for an extended time and see if you start to smell burning clutch as a function of time. However, I do NOT recommend it since if the hydraulics are the problem, you are putting a lot of strain on them by doing this test and will be further weakening or possibly killing them. Should you do this test (at your own risk and responsibility), be sure the front of the car is pointed away from things and people you care about since if the master/slave fails catastrophically, the car will fall hard into 1st and lunge forward before it stalls Spose you could have the ebrake on or the brake pedal down too.

 

I've been having some intermittent trouble getting mine into first as well. Usually I slip it into second thinking I'm not aligning the shifter right. Clutch to the floor and I still have to give it some muscle to put it into first. Usually happens at full stop with engine cold and warm. I've checked the bushing recently and it seemed ok. Linkage doesn't bind.

 

Dave, I'm not joking, take the floor mat if you have one out of the driver's floor area. My 18 yr old saturn issue floormat stopped gripping the floor about 15 years ago and tends to slide up under the clutch pedal.

The tiny difference between depressed clutch to floormat vs fully depressed clutch is actually enough to eliminate this problem. Embarrassed to say it took me years to realize the correlation.
sounds like maybe a 1st gear synchro issue.

If you start to have issues w random or all of the gears, I'd start suspecting hydraulics.

 

I kinda agree with the pilot bearing issue, but that is only one thing that could cause this. First is to accurately assess the condition of the clutch. When depressing the pedal, there should be about an inch of free play before you feel the resistance of the springs of the pressure plate.

With the engine running, car stopped, first gear, you should be able to lift the clutch pedal about 2" before you engage the friction point. Any sooner would indicate that something is stuck in the clutch plate or there is a problem with the hydraulics.

To check for air in the hydraulics, push the clutch plate down, first gear, engine on, car stopped and hold it dow for a minute or two. No brakes, does the car start to move? Does the friction point get lower after a minute or two?

If all the tests above are good, then I'd strongly suspect the pilot bearing, but there is a off chance that it is something in the transmission. Check the ATF and make sure it is bright red.

One last thing, check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If it is high, take a little out and see if that helps.

 

Clutch Hydraulics Diagnosis

 

It is not the pilot bearing. S cars don't have pilot bearings. I didn't know this until last week when I dropped my trans to fix a leak.