Saturn SL 1996 5 speed Won't start?
#11
10-11-2011, 10:19 PM
what color smoke? Black? White? and how thick?
Do you have the milkshake in the coolant reservoir (and on the dipstick)?
How much liquid came out when you last changed the oil? And was it milkshaky?
Oil control rings and valve guide seals are known to allow oil to pass into the cylinders and thus burn. This is likely where your oil is going.
As for a gallon of coolant a week, that's plain ridiculous. I'd say it's most likely head related (crack as described above or head gasket). I'm surprised you didn't report overheating issues since the cooling system is clearly not sealed and can't be maintaining pressure. I'd say it was leaking and blowing off while you're driving but that is too much --even from a radiator end tank seal -- to not see....
You can do a loan a tool for the compression check from autozone or similar.
Perform on a warm engine with all plugs removed and fuel injector fuse pulled (don't forget to put it back in)
pls do post compression results -- should be most interesting
Do you have the milkshake in the coolant reservoir (and on the dipstick)?
How much liquid came out when you last changed the oil? And was it milkshaky?
Oil control rings and valve guide seals are known to allow oil to pass into the cylinders and thus burn. This is likely where your oil is going.
As for a gallon of coolant a week, that's plain ridiculous. I'd say it's most likely head related (crack as described above or head gasket). I'm surprised you didn't report overheating issues since the cooling system is clearly not sealed and can't be maintaining pressure. I'd say it was leaking and blowing off while you're driving but that is too much --even from a radiator end tank seal -- to not see....
You can do a loan a tool for the compression check from autozone or similar.
Perform on a warm engine with all plugs removed and fuel injector fuse pulled (don't forget to put it back in)
pls do post compression results -- should be most interesting
#12
10-11-2011, 10:26 PM
Ocean, You da man, the saturn just start right out the bat again, without hesitation... the Temperature Sensor was really damaged! Do you think the "head gasket sealer" thing really works as they claimed?
#13
10-11-2011, 10:28 PM
That head gasket sealer is really not a good idea unless you plan on getting rid of your car. It's been known to clog radiators and heater cores. You need to keep a close eye on your temperature gauge if you've dumped that crap in there.
#14
10-11-2011, 10:34 PM
what color smoke? Black? White? and how thick?
Do you have the milkshake in the coolant reservoir (and on the dipstick)?
How much liquid came out when you last changed the oil? And was it milkshaky?
Oil control rings and valve guide seals are known to allow oil to pass into the cylinders and thus burn. This is likely where your oil is going.
As for a gallon of coolant a week, that's plain ridiculous. I'd say it's most likely head related (crack as described above or head gasket). I'm surprised you didn't report overheating issues since the cooling system is clearly not sealed and can't be maintaining pressure. I'd say it was leaking and blowing off while you're driving but that is too much --even from a radiator end tank seal -- to not see....
You can do a loan a tool for the compression check from autozone or similar.
Perform on a warm engine with all plugs removed and fuel injector fuse pulled (don't forget to put it back in)
pls do post compression results -- should be most interesting
Do you have the milkshake in the coolant reservoir (and on the dipstick)?
How much liquid came out when you last changed the oil? And was it milkshaky?
Oil control rings and valve guide seals are known to allow oil to pass into the cylinders and thus burn. This is likely where your oil is going.
As for a gallon of coolant a week, that's plain ridiculous. I'd say it's most likely head related (crack as described above or head gasket). I'm surprised you didn't report overheating issues since the cooling system is clearly not sealed and can't be maintaining pressure. I'd say it was leaking and blowing off while you're driving but that is too much --even from a radiator end tank seal -- to not see....
You can do a loan a tool for the compression check from autozone or similar.
Perform on a warm engine with all plugs removed and fuel injector fuse pulled (don't forget to put it back in)
pls do post compression results -- should be most interesting
Thanks Derf,
I just got done working on it tonight. Took it for a test drive and it seems all those problem vanished after I replaced the Temperature sensor. No smoke, colorless, no funny smell,
I don't remember but yesterday after the oil drain my little round flat tub from the Autozone "change-your-oil" package was not up to half. So, this time i'm going to pay very close attention to the oil and see how its faring.
As far as the compression test, I'd have to run that too. You think Autozone can run it for me or can I just do it myself at the front of their store since the car runs smooth now?
You guys rock!
#15
10-11-2011, 10:45 PM
Hayseed, thanks for the enlightenment. Apparently, I'm ignorant and I'm glad I didn't learn the hard way
#16
10-13-2011, 11:42 AM
I guess a few comments and some questions are in order --
When you turn your A/C on high (max cool), does the fan for the radiator come on, and is it turning at high speed?
Does the car overheat only when in traffic (stop and go) but is OK on the highway?
You mentioned you recently did a radiator flush -- did you put coolant back in, or just water, and does it still look "clean", or is it starting to look like a starbuck's creme latte?
When you turn your A/C on high (max cool), does the fan for the radiator come on, and is it turning at high speed?
Does the car overheat only when in traffic (stop and go) but is OK on the highway?
You mentioned you recently did a radiator flush -- did you put coolant back in, or just water, and does it still look "clean", or is it starting to look like a starbuck's creme latte?
#17
10-13-2011, 06:15 PM
Autozone will not run a compression test for you, but you can get a compression tester through their Loan-A-Tool program. You put a deposit on it, use it and return it and get your money back. If you don't know how to use it, just ask the Parts Manager and he can explain it to you.
#18
10-13-2011, 08:10 PM
I guess a few comments and some questions are in order --
When you turn your A/C on high (max cool), does the fan for the radiator come on, and is it turning at high speed?
Does the car overheat only when in traffic (stop and go) but is OK on the highway?
You mentioned you recently did a radiator flush -- did you put coolant back in, or just water, and does it still look "clean", or is it starting to look like a starbuck's creme latte?
When you turn your A/C on high (max cool), does the fan for the radiator come on, and is it turning at high speed?
Does the car overheat only when in traffic (stop and go) but is OK on the highway?
You mentioned you recently did a radiator flush -- did you put coolant back in, or just water, and does it still look "clean", or is it starting to look like a starbuck's creme latte?
My fan works good. When I turn AC on the fan kicks in. I have to leave it running like that or else it overheats. If i drive on the highway too its fine. I just cant turn the AC off...
#19
10-13-2011, 09:45 PM
dude -- you need to tell us ALL of what's going on if you want us to be able to truly help sort out your issues.
Telling us your car overheats on post #17 is not conducive to correct diagnosis on our part.
If you're going through that much coolant in an improperly pressurized cooling system and you're to the point of being wholly dependent on what is designed as an auxillary cooling fan to cool down what little coolant is actually still in the system. I'd say you better sort it out fast while your engine still rotates.
Telling us your car overheats on post #17 is not conducive to correct diagnosis on our part.
If you're going through that much coolant in an improperly pressurized cooling system and you're to the point of being wholly dependent on what is designed as an auxillary cooling fan to cool down what little coolant is actually still in the system. I'd say you better sort it out fast while your engine still rotates.
Last edited by derf; 10-16-2011 at 07:25 PM.
#20
10-15-2011, 04:27 PM
Compression Test Result
dude -- you need to tell us ALL of what's going on if you want us to be able to truly help sort out your issues.
Telling us your car overheats on post #17 is not conducive to correct diagnosis on our part.
If you're going through that much coolant in an improperly pressurized cooling system and you're to the point of being wholly dependent on what is designed as an auxillary cooling fan to cool down what little coolant is actually still in the system. I'd say you better sort it out fast while your engine still rotates.
Telling us your car overheats on post #17 is not conducive to correct diagnosis on our part.
If you're going through that much coolant in an improperly pressurized cooling system and you're to the point of being wholly dependent on what is designed as an auxillary cooling fan to cool down what little coolant is actually still in the system. I'd say you better sort it out fast while your engine still rotates.
Ok. So ignore post #18 because now it doesn't even matter if I'm on the highway or not, even after turning on the AC it'll still overheat. I just changed the thermostat, ECTS, new drain plug, washed the coolant reservoir. And here is my compression test result:
Spark-plug hole #1 position from left: 90psi
Spark-plug hole #2 position from left: 90psi
Spark-plug hole #3 position from left: 60psi
Spark-plug hole #1 position from right: 60psi
Last edited by derf; 10-16-2011 at 07:25 PM.