Hey I knocked out another post. Like you said, when they're all completed, I'll put them into a separate thread.

I'd like to mention that I drove the car on a 350 mile drive from Louisville up to Cleveland. The temperature outside was 76F. Parts of the trip required 3,500 sustained RMP's, and at those higher RPM's the system produces even colder air, as low as 40 degrees!!

 

Nice.

Do you know why your posts have "spoiler" things in them?
Never saw that before on this forum.

 

Yes, I put them in there to be able to minimize the photos.

 

...Phase 3 continued: Component Removal (and Some Installation)

Instructions:

1. Remove the old compressor
   
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   Image of the old compressor after sliding off the drive belt.
   
   
   The old compressor is removed.
2. Install the new compressor
   
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   Fully draining the shipping oil out of the replacement compressor.
   
   
   The compressor is installed. Lining up the first few bolts is tricky. I suggest moving the windshield washer fluid reservoir out of the way and using a dead blow hammer to guide the replacement compressor into position.
   
   
   The belt drive is reinstalled onto the replacement compressor clutch.
3. Prime the new compressor with 30 ml (1 oz.) of PAG oil.
   
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   Preparing to add PAG46 oil to the compressor.
   
   
   Slowly add the oil directly into the suction side of the compressor.
   Note: After adding oil, it is wise to place the port covers back on the compressor to prevent contamination from any debris or dust while working.

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End Phase 3

Comments:

The order of operations in this phase is sequenced in a way that made logical sense to me. It is not necessarily required to do everything in this particular order. I will also give the warning that you should not necessarily be following every single step of the CHARM instructions, because they are designed to describe the process of servicing single components, and this project services many components. So, you should not be following every single instruction exactly. Remember to apply your own intelligence to the project! Also, I have attached the documents that came with my replacement compressor, as they contain important information about the compressor.

 

Phase 4: Flush

Suggested Tools/Equipment

• A/C flush kit (Recommended: this)
• Flush solvent (Recommended: 3 cans of this)
• Air compressor
• An additional, very narrow-tip rubber nozzle
• Blowgun attachment
• Plastic tubing
• Small hose clamp

Instructions

1. Flush the evaporator core with solvent
   
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   To control the mess, tubing can be used to direct the solvent into a vessel.
   
   This old bucket works perfectly for collecting the used solvent.
   
   Here is the setup just before flushing the evaporator. The process is fairly quick.
2. Dry the evaporator core with compressed air
   No photograph. Blow compressed air through the evaporator core until it is dry.
   
3. Flush the suction hose with solvent
   
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   Flushing the suction line. Even if you're replacing the lines, it is best to flush them at least a small amount before installing.
4. Dry the suction hose with compressed air
   
5. Flush the discharge hose with solvent
   
6. Dry the discharge hose with compressed air
   
7. Flush the liquid line with solvent
   Note: Flushing the liquid line is particularly challenging because the line opening is difficult to reach. Uninstalling the liquid line is a difficult procedure, and the part is not readily available for sale if it were to break. Although it is awkward, I recommend flushing the liquid line with it installed. The liquid line is also very narrow, which is why you will need an airgun nozzle that is very soft and narrow.
   
8. Dry the liquid line with compressed air

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End of Phase 4

Comments:

It is recommended to use a whole can of solvent to flush the evaporator core.

 

Phase 5: Final Installations and Oil Distribution

Suggested tools/equipment

• Torque wrench
• Metric sockets
• Flared crowfoot wrenches
• Replacement suction hose
• Replacement discharge hose
• Replacement thermal expansion valve

Instructions:

1. Add 67.5 ml (2 ¼ oz.) of oil to the evaporator core. (I suggest adding it to the liquid port.)
   
2. Install new thermal expansion valve
   
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   Ready to install thermal expansion valve. Use the original O-rings from your system if they're still in good condition.
   
   
   Thermal expansion valve is installed.
3. Reconnect liquid line to thermal expansion valve and receiver drier
   
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   Connecting the liquid line to the new thermal expansion valve.
   
   
   Also connect the liquid line to the new receiver drier.
4. Install new low-pressure suction hose
   
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   The new suction hose has been installed to the new thermal expansion valve (top line).
   
   
   The new suction hose has been installed to the new compressor.
5. Install new high-pressure discharge hose
   
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   The new discharge hose is shown here connected to the condenser inlet.
   
   
   The new hose is also shown here connected to the compressor.

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End of Phase 5

Comments:

Leave the headlamp uninstalled until Phase 8 is complete, after the leak test.

 

Phase 6: Pull Vacuum and Leak Test

Suggested Tools/Equipment

• R134a manifold gauge set
• AC system vacuum pump

Instructions:

1. Close all valves on the manifold gauges.
   
2. Attach high and low gauge nozzles to the high- and low-side service ports.
   
3. Thread the yellow center gauge nozzle to the R134a port of the vacuum.
   
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   The manifold gauges are connected. It is absolutely vital that manifold gauge procedures are followed in the correct sequence to vacuum and charge the system.
   
   
   The yellow hose connects to the vacuum pump, which pulls the vacuum on the system.
4. Open both high and low nozzles on the service ports, and open both high and low valves on the manifold gauges.
   
5. Turn on the vacuum.
   
6. Monitor the low-side gauge until the reading is nearly -30 inHg.
   Note: The best vacuum you can achieve depends on your elevation above sea level. Higher elevations result in lower maximum achievable vacuum readings. For example, at sea level, a perfect vacuum reads about 29.92 inHg, while at higher elevations, a reading of 27–28 inHg may be normal.
   
7. Close the high service port valve, then close the high manifold gauge valve, then close the low manifold gauge valve.
   Note: The low service port valve should be left open to continue reading negative pressure.
   
8. Turn off the vacuum.
   
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   At my elevation, a vacuum of 27.5 inHg is acceptable.
9. Monitor the low-side pressure reading for 10–15 minutes (or longer).
   • If vacuum is lost (leaks out), find the leak and repair it.
     
   • If vacuum holds, close the low-side service port valve.
10. Reinstall throttle body
    
11. Reinstall the intake hose and air box cover.

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End of Phase 6

Comments:

If all has gone well, the vacuum should hold. If the vacuum is not holding, you must locate the leak and repair it before proceeding. It is impossible to charge the system with a vacuum leak.

 

Phase 7: Refrigerant Charge

Suggested Tools/Equipment

• R134a manifold gauge set
• A/C vacuum pump
• R134a refrigerant (need at least 1.5 lbs)
• Nozzle tap for R134a canisters
• Scale

Instructions:

1. Refrigerant capacity – The system must be charged with 1.5 lbs (0.68 kg) of R134a refrigerant.
   
2. Close all valves and service ports on the manifold gauge.
   Note: High- and low-side manifold gauge connectors should still be connected to the service ports, and the high and low manifold gauge hoses should still be holding the vacuum from Phase 6.
   
3. Thread the end of the yellow center hose to the refrigerant tap nozzle.
   
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   Manifold gauges are connected, with all valves closed. Nozzle tap is attached to the end of the yellow hose. Scale and R134a are ready.
4. Thread the can of R134a onto the tap nozzle.
   
5. Turn on the nozzle to allow R134a to flow into the yellow service hose.
   
6. Loosen the yellow service hose connection at the manifold gauge slightly to allow air to be forced out of the hose by the refrigerant.
   (Warning: Some refrigerant will escape.) Ensure all air is removed from the yellow hose.
   
7. Place the can of R134a carefully onto a digital scale.
   
8. Make a note of the starting weight of the can. This will be used to calculate how much R134a has been added to the system.
   
9. Start the vehicle. Turn on the A/C, set the blower motor to maximum, and the temperature to cold.
   
10. Open the low-side valve of the manifold gauge.
    
11. Open the low-side service port valve.
    
12. Refrigerant is now flowing into the system.
    
13. Open the high-side service port valve (not the manifold gauge valve!)
    
14. Monitor the weight reading on the scale to track how much refrigerant is being added. Do not overcharge the system.
    
15. Follow the instructions on the can for the charging process. This usually involves tilting the can 90 degrees to its side and back upright periodically.
    
16. When the can is empty or nearly empty, close all manifold gauge valves, disconnect the can, and connect the next full can.
    Be sure to loosen the yellow service hose connection at the manifold gauge slightly to purge air.
    (Warning: Some refrigerant will escape.) Ensure all air is removed from the yellow hose.
    
17. When 1.5 lbs of refrigerant have been added, close the low-side manifold gauge valve.
    
18. Close the refrigerant tap nozzle.

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End of Phase 7

Comments:

I don’t have many photographs to accompany this section, as there are many resources online about how to use manifold gauges and charge a system with refrigerant. I’m probably repeating myself, but before beginning this process you should have a firm understanding of the fundamental concepts behind charging an A/C system with refrigerant. These instructions are only a logical and sequential framework to operate from. Be certain you understand what it is that you are doing and why you are doing it at each step. A single mistake can cause the system to become contaminated with air and moisture, and to lose vacuum.

 

Phase 8: Test Completed System

Suggested Tools/Equipment

• Vent thermometer
• UV flashlight
• Manifold gauge set

Instructions

1. Place a thermometer in the center A/C vent and set the system to blow the air as cold as possible. Ideally, the vent temperature should be between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
   
2. Ensure high- and low-side pressures are correct for the given environmental conditions. If they are not, diagnose the issue and correct it.
   
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   This diagnostic chart and much more information about diagnosing and testing the SL1 A/C system are available on charm.li.
   
   
   At 75°F ambient temperature, the low-pressure side is at 27 psi and the high-pressure side is at 140 psi, which is pretty good.
   
   
   At 75°F ambient temperature, the central dash vent is blowing cold air at around 43°F, which is pretty good.
3. Use a UV light to thoroughly inspect the entire system for leaks.
   
4. If any leaks are found, repair them and return to Phase 6.

Comments:

When testing system performance, it is common for the initial manifold gauge readings to be slightly outside the prescribed PSI range. This is because it can take time for the system to balance the distribution of PAG oil and refrigerant. If your readings are out of the prescribed range, but somewhat close, do not rush to correct them by adjusting the refrigerant charge. Drive the vehicle and monitor the system. A/C systems also tend to perform better while the vehicle is driving and operating above idle RPMs.