According the service literature that I have, idle speed and mixture are controlled by the Engine Control Computer and is not adjustable. It also goes on to say that incorrect idle speeds are generally caused by dirty throttle body plates or vacuum leaks. Now to be honest I do not know what the purpose of the star bit screw is, but according the literature if idle speed is not adjustable, so that is not how it is adjusted. So you need to figure out what the primary purpose of that piece is and see to it that what ever the purpose is that it is used to meet it.
It may have some relationship to what is going on. I don't know. But other than my Dodge Aries which had an early version of a throttle body controlled fuel injection rather than a port injection as everybody is pretty much today, idle speed and mixture is controlled by the computers that run the thing or possibly a vacuum leak and there are very few vacuum lines used on anything built much past 1988.

 

Today I filled the tank "Which was empty." And took it out on the highway and it did well accept for having to turn on the AC to cool it down once I got off. Then I got home and it sat for about an hour.

It had been starting great but, after I took it on the highway problems started again. It's dieing while idling and, taking a while to start. I took it for another spin and as I was driving it kept bogging down more than it has in the past. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter. From what I've read it sounds like that may be the issue.

The fan is now coming on but it's still overheating until I turn on the AC and it cools it right down. I was thinking about flushing the radiator again. I noticed there's some gunk around the inside of the coolant resevoir under the cap. I thought the fan would solve the issue. The AC does lower the RPM's "Still running around 2,000". I haven't replaced the top part of the EST but, I'm picking it up tomorrow along with some engine fix it and magic marvel.

I'm going to pick and pull tomorrow to get some parts for my truck. I don't know if there's anything I should try to grab that could help me. I know right where the SL 2's are. I do think the high RPM's are most likely vacuum related as OceanArcher suggested. There was a small tear on the foam part of the plastic tube that runs from the intake to the block. I used electric tape and it seemed to be working fine for awhile "My dad's car mechanic friend told me it work".

Another issue I've had from the get go are a loud rattling coming from the bottom and aloud squealing when it starts of right when I put it into drive. I figure it's most likely the exhaust being lose and needing a new belt "Belt looks fine but I know how they are". I'm also going to check all the pulleys while I have the belt off.

So far I'm not at all displeased with my 50$ purchase. I really enjoy working on this little car. THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!! I wouldn't have know where to start without this forum.

 

you're pretty much never supposed to adjust that idle screw position except when you've swapped the throttle body onto another car and ALL other efforts have failed. Or so I've read.

Per earlier comments, with ECTS changed and idle still at 2000, I too suspect vacuum leak.

Also, the car's computer will try it's damnest to make it idle at 850 (by design), if you're no where near that, you have much more of an issue than that screw can help you with. Look up the default position for that screw and put it back or you may complicate things down the road

 

======================
I was thinking about changing the fuel filter. From what I've read it sounds like that may be the issue.
======================
I am a great fan of the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" school of automotive repair for two reasons.
1. Why buy parts you don't need
2. With the complexity of today's cars use that money to buy tools to use to determine broke.
A fuel pressure gauge is a tool used to determine the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail of a fuel injection car and is an invaluable tool. As part of how one runs is a function of that pressure.
I have saved enough money knowing what the pressure was so I did not need to buy parts to have bought all kinds of tools.
Thus reading a fuel filter might be the cause of a problem and determining it is one is two different things.
And spending money buying one proves nothing.
If you don't know it is bad in the first place.
So
A cheap test?
Blow through it. If you can easily it ain't plugged. Of course you have to take it off to blow through it, but you have to take it off to change it too. so the only thing saved is the money spent for one that you don't need.

================
I was thinking about flushing the radiator again. I noticed there's some gunk around the inside of the coolant resevoir under the cap.
================
Improper maintenance causes gunk. Good thought flush it again.
Do the flushing with the heater on. I don't know how you flush things, but you want ALL of the coolant out.
And the only way to do that is to insure that the coolant in the heater of the car gets gone too. Which may require multiple flush cycles by filling with fresh water and starting the car to mix everything with the heater running and then dumping it all. Whe the Saturn was built (1994) Antifreeze technology of the time had come up with some new materials. It was environmentally safe or the darling of some fad-ish group or another and I don't care because what it did if that anti-freeze and commercially available Prestone at the time mixed it caused gunk.
The world has changed since then and when you look at the labels it will say this anti-freeze mixes with all colors.
And it does.
BUT if the cooling system has not been changed ever or still contains the original anti-freeze it is still making gunk.
And the system works better clean. So clean it and then and only then add anti-freeze to it.
What kind?
I don't care. I prefer prestone but I am old school.
I also object to buying a $9.00 gallon of anti-freeze that is PRE-mixed with water which at my house is free.
So I will look for a $9.00 bottle of anti-freeze that is full of anti-freeze and mix my own. It is more cost effective that way.
READ THE LABELS.
====================
loud rattling coming from the bottom
====================
It could be the catalytic converter is comming apart. That makes a noise like driving through large quantities of Pee Gravel. This can and does cause performance problems and over heating. All of which confuse diagnostics of performance and overheating problems.
====================
As to the junk yard. Take a look at how that screw you adjusted you are supposed to adjust by seeing how it is on other cars assuming of course some one else did not just turn the thing having no idea how to turn it.
And everything you can that may have anything at all related to a vacuum leak so you know what things are supposed to look like.