if all else fails ya can run a wire from the battery to a inline fuse than to a toggle switch than to the fans hot side and run a wire from the fans ground side to the frame. the wires at the fan just put connectors on them blade terminals if im not mistaken, than u will controll the fan with the switch

 

A defective ECTS will cause an overheating problem. When that sensor goes bad, it sends out erroneous signals. It's signal determines when the fan comes on. If it's signal is erroneous the fan will never come on. When you pull the ECTS you should be able to see a crack on the section that's in the coolant (the replacement brass sensors don't have that problem). Normally that crack will let coolant into the interior of the sensor corroding the resistor. This problem is usually accompanied by corrosion inside the connection itself.

 

HEYsepi long time no see.

 

He's been working on all of his antiques, Joe. Got some great pics of his grandson "driving" some of them too!

 

Good to see you back, Howie.
Thought you'd ditched us for another forum full of people that almost know what they're talking about..........