Need tips for cv install.
Basic replacement, i will address whatever issues come with it as the parts get replaced.
right now though, people locally are used douche bags.
so ive decided to take matters into my own hands, to avoid any fu*ckery, and shenanigans. Ill go for an alignment at “less schwag” (grammatical play intended) after.
i need to know of any important info that would be necessary for a cv acle replacement. There is a tiny vague photo “STOP! Read this first” pamphlet. (2”x2” square)
right now though, people locally are used douche bags.
so ive decided to take matters into my own hands, to avoid any fu*ckery, and shenanigans. Ill go for an alignment at “less schwag” (grammatical play intended) after.
i need to know of any important info that would be necessary for a cv acle replacement. There is a tiny vague photo “STOP! Read this first” pamphlet. (2”x2” square)
She's looking for general guidance and has not done one of these before. So words of wisdom like "when you're doing X, whatever you do don't let the bjhgg touch the fddd snd support the hjjj ot it will bend and ruin everything.
What's old hat for many of us is brand new to her, so all pointers are welcome.
What's old hat for many of us is brand new to her, so all pointers are welcome.
An impact wrench is handy for easily removing the axle nut. I believe the OEM nut size is 30mm. A ball joint seperator is easier on the ball joint and tie rod end boots than a pickle fork. If you don't take the strut to knuckle joint apart an alignment shouldn't be need. I'm sure you already know the transmission needs to be drained to do the left axle.


