MIL lamp not working '97 SL1
#1
MIL lamp not working '97 SL1
My MIL lamp is not functioning. The bulb looked good, but I changed it anyway with another bulb from the console that I know does work. I see that there is just a circuit board that the bulbs in the console make contact with (no wires), so might the circuit board pathway to the MIL lamp be faulty?It had been working in the past and there are trouble codes that I pulled out from the computer (ongoing EGR problems for the past two years). When it was working, the light would go on for a while (same ongoing EGR problems), turn off for a while, then turn back on for a while (same driving conditions-some city, mostly highway). Now it won't light up even when you first turn on the key and all the other lights briefly turn on. I cleared the codes, worked on the EGR problem again and now the service engine light is stuck on after clearing the codes (135 miles later its still on) and replacing the EGR valve. Who should I take it to if no one here has any ideas? Is this a dealership specific problem? I cannot pass California smog until I rectify this problem.
#2
Confused.
First part of post indicates MIL does not come on at "key on".
Second part of post indicates MIL is stuck on.
If MIL does not come on at "key on", I would expect to see an MIL Malfunction code set.
If MIL is currently on, what codes if any are stored?
First part of post indicates MIL does not come on at "key on".
Second part of post indicates MIL is stuck on.
If MIL does not come on at "key on", I would expect to see an MIL Malfunction code set.
If MIL is currently on, what codes if any are stored?
#3
Just to post an update.
After reaching 140 miles since the codes were cleared, the service engine light finally turned off and the MIL light finally came back on when the key is first turned on. So far the MIL light has stayed off while driving and no trouble codes have reappeared, so I'm going to get the smog test done again and hopefully it will pass. It seems that this was a random malfunction, though the cause is still a mystery.
After reaching 140 miles since the codes were cleared, the service engine light finally turned off and the MIL light finally came back on when the key is first turned on. So far the MIL light has stayed off while driving and no trouble codes have reappeared, so I'm going to get the smog test done again and hopefully it will pass. It seems that this was a random malfunction, though the cause is still a mystery.
#5
Well I'm now thinking it's a faulty computer. At a 194 miles (almost 50 miles since the check engine light came back on after the codes were cleared), the service engine light turned on today while I was doing the computer diagnostic driving cycle and now the MIL will not turn on when the key is first turned on to start the car. It was working before I started the diagnostic driving cycle, but now its not working again. I've checked the computer codes with my scanner and its still clean and all of the diagnostic sensors are still good. It seems that when the service engine light turns on while driving, then the MIL light is not functioning. Perhaps that is what the service light is trying to tell me? Is there anyway to diagnose what problem the service light is indicating (that would be too easy, I know)? I'll try driving it on the highway for another 150 miles and see if that won't temporarily fix the problem. I was going to get it smoged today too!! I should have just gone to the shop and skipped the driving diagnostic cycle. If it wasn't for this stupid light it would probably pass smog now.
#6
Apparently this forum can fix problems remotely. After letting the car rest for about an hour, the MIL light came back on when the key was turned on. So I quickly rushed down to the auto shop and it passed smog! The NO levels were much lower after replacing the EGR valve, but the HC levels were just under the max levels allowed. I've never replaced the cat converter but I've never gotten any trouble codes for it either. Should I consider replacing the cat converter prior to my next smog check in two years?
#8
ever change ECTS and connector? if original is still in there, it has failed. Replace with brass style and replace connector too. This will improve driveability, cut emissions, and increase MPG by way of getting the air/fuel mix back to where it should be (not artificially rich, which is usually the result of the original style ECTS failing and telling the PCM that the coolant temp is always -40....which richens the air/fuel mixture...
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