Hi all. My son's '98 sl2 has a cold start problem at times. Cranks 3-5 seconds before firing. Starts/runs great when warm. 84k. AT. 33 mpg. No driveability issues. He bought it ~3 months ago. We replaced ECTS (new brass), did wonders for temp gauge. Got SES code for downstream O2 sensor, replaced. Got 0341 code for cam sensor, replaced plugs and wires. AC coppers. Got 0341 code again, replaced coils (2). After each of these codes, repairs and resets, car cold starts great next day or 2, but today (Friday) he called and said again hard cold start after coils replaced on Wednesday. No SES light on after today's hard start. We've found that by "feathering" (light accelerator pedal pressure) after initial crank but no start, car fires right up. This info, and with all the ignition parts replaced, leads me to believe it's a fuel system problem. I know I've seen on here there's been problems with '97 and prior fuel pumps and or regulators... '98s too? Any ideas? I sure would like to get this taken care of before winter sets in! Thanks!

 

throw a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and see what pressures your getting at prime, if there is bleed off after prime, and of course during cranking and after its running

 

Lemme vote with derf on this but from a slightly different view point. I have a fuel pressure gauge for fuel injected cars. It cost somewhere around $100.00 to buy it. Been a back yard mechanic for years. Started back in the day when fuel was pressured by gravity. The tank was in the cowl behind the dash board. And leaked through the site glass on to the floor if over half full.
Never needed a fuel pressure gauge, could have used one a couple of times but basically got around it.
Untill
I had a few pressure problem on two fuel injected cars. Spent close to $500.00 in service costs + having some one else not analyse it correctly and then spent more money not fixing it.
If I had spent the $100.00 for one the first time I would have saved myself a ton of money, ton of time and a ton of agravation.
Changing fuel pumps in the gasoline tank are a real drag, if you don't have to and finding out you did not fix it by changing one is even draggier.
Your choice, buy a gauge, let some one else do it, or throw a fuel pump at it.
Then buy a gauge, let some one else do it or you can always throw another fuel pump at it.

 

Thank you derf and uncljohn, for your speedy and informative responses. I am a DIY mechanic not-so-much by choice as necessity, keeping costs down. But it sounds as if this might be ~$100 well-spent. Plus another tool in the box! While the kid and his car are 2+ hours away, once I fix this problem, I'll let you and your members know the outcome. I've gotten some great free info on this site and would like to pay it forward. For us shade-treers, fixing's easy (usually), tough part is diagnosis.

P.S. Uncljohn- draggier? lol Nice!