power? Turbo. But alot of fab is required and the parts needed to do it are getting harder to find. You can do this on a 40K engine but not advisable on a 186K auto tranny. You'd want a 5 speed swapped in to enjoy it.

Plus if it's a 186K tranny, count your blessings that you have no reverse slam, slamming into gears, missing 2nd gear, loose input shaft nut, yalvebody/solenoid issues, no reverse at all, etc.

The person you bought it from should have had some or all of those tranny issues.
Might be why they sold it. But fixed it first.

Updated parts numbers above

 

Honestly there is no record of tranny work done to the car. I have ever record, oil change, reciept, everything for this car including original window sticker. They never reported any tranny problems. It shifts good, but i think one of the motor mounts is bad/loose.

 

torque axis (top mount) --if they never changed it EVER it is gone. They are semi consumables on the s cars if you own them long enough

Another part where OEM makes all the difference. Reduced vibrations in the cabin = less cheap plastic rattling.

While you're at the dealership, get an upper torque axis mount. Be SURE he has the year correct as they kept changing the design and the hole patterns, so not all mounts will fit all years.

Also get a set of 3 new mounting studs and bolts and use a torque wrench or you WILL twist these off.

During replacement, after supporting the oil pan with a WIDE sheet of plywood to keep from denting the oil pan from applying pressure all in one spot, loosen the lower torque axis mounting bolts, then install the new upper mount, torque down, THEN tighten the lower torque axis mounting bolts, then put the car back on the ground and enjoy your quiet new ride.

The only other mount that usually causes troubles is the tranny mount, It can be changed in your garage but if it isn't causing problems, leave it alone

 

So after replacing the ects and the wire bundle for it the car still has the exact same hesitation. Next guess is fuel injectors. Pcv valve is working, car is showing correct temp on obd2 reader. Does not cut out when screaming down the highway so fuel filter is ruled out along with fuel pump. Idles normally. Any more ideas? Thanks

 

It may idle smoothly but the idle is too high. This is usually indicative of a vacuum leak. In your case, a small one, but a vac leak nonetheless.

I would spray down around the intake manifold ports to the cylinders, around where the throttle body meets the intake, and around all vac lines.

Per your P0442
Be sure to carefully inspect and spray down the vacuum line from the intake to the purge solenoid. COULD be the cause of your slightly high idle and MIGHT correct initial accel issues since if it is a vac leak, there is unmetered air sneaking into the manifold and messing up the A/F mix near idle.

I am surprised there is no difference in performance w the new ECTS.....

 

I dont think its a vacuum leak because that code has not come back since i reset it, and also when the motor was rebuilt it had all new gaskets including the intake manifold gasket and was sprayed down to check for that. We think it is a fuel injector stuck open because the o2 sensor is reading weird going from high to low, so the thought is that one of the injectors might be stuck open causing the car to run fat and the computer doesnt know how to compensate. My buddy has a tuning device on his computer we are going to use and seewhat the injectors are readi ng along with fuel pressure. My only rhought on the ects is if it was broke. Wouldnt the temp gauge not work?

 

EVAP system codes take a while to reset because meeting the somewhat obscure criteria for the different EVAP I/M tests to run is a PITA. If you check the EVAP I/M w your scanner, I pretty much guarantee it will say Not Ready, because not all the EVAP tests have been run.

If your injector was stuck open, the PCM would
---keep leaning out the mixture (shrinking the open window for the injectors) until it either succeeded in getting the front O2 readings in the correct range.
---keep leaning out the mix until it reached its preprogrammed adjustment limit -- at which time the PCM would throw a EDIT: RICH code. And that's not occurring.

A bottle of techron fuel system cleaner can't hurt for the next step. The injectors could be gunked up. Worked wonders for my 97 SC2 when it was getting sluggish.

The fuel pressure can easily be read w a gauge from the port on the fuel line that is under the hood.

If the ECTS was completely defective, I doubt the gauge would work, and I doubt the car would run well at all.

Read the resistance ice cold (include ambient temp)
Read the resistance at operating temp.
Post here and we'll double check.

You can look up the GM drive cycle as well as 300 posts regarding "can't get EVAP monitor test to run" for further information.

As far as vac leaks, it can't hurt to check and costs almost nothing.
As far as fuel system cleaner, less than 10 bucks

 

There is also a slim possibility that the Throttle Position Sensor is not behaving as designed. Meaning that the V vs % throttle behavior is either inconsistent or has "dead spots" or rough spots where the V does not smoothly change but instead jumps in a certain throttle % range.

This would be a good one to check with the scan tool and compare to expected values (which I can dig up).
In your case, I would be looking for barely off idle V fluctuations with increasing % throttle instead of the expected smooth V transitions.
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I'm not a parts shotgunner and I will not recommend changing anything I can not reasonably expect to be the cause of a problem as determined by testing. Hence the testing first, then the conclusion and next steps.

This may increase the overall diag and solution time, but for us DIYers, it is still a hell of a lot cheaper w no labor costs and judicious replacement of components