Unc, my understanding of the procedure was that it was to "CURE" a condition called "reverse slam"...basically the fluid and filter got changed-out and then the car got idled in reverse gear for 30 minutes or so? No slamming involved, I don't think...
I could be wrong, of course, so I'm gonna flit back and re-read the posts and see...

 

The condition is indeed called "reverse slam", probably stemming from the harsh engagement of the reverse gears, which feels like something slamming into place. It doesn't sound like there's any slamming involved in the procedure, but it sounds rather strange. I'm not sure it's wise to leave a car run, in gear, for that amount of time without actually moving the vehicle. While I'm sure the fan would kick in to prevent overheating, it just seems potentially harmful to the transmission due to the engine trying to make the car move and your brakes or brick wall (as suggested in the link) preventing that.

 

Speculate as you will, gentlemen, but all I know is that mine sure as hell shifts a lot better and smoother than it did before I tried this. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

 

Idling in reverse for 30 minutes is not going to hurt anything -- unless of course there's already something wrong that it will exacerbate.

First of all, unless the engine is idling above 650-750 RPM the torque converter is not fully hooked up so it isn't trying all that hard to make the car move. Mostly just pumping ATF through the system.

Secondly, you can turn your air conditioner on and the fan will run all the time so you shouldn't have any overheating issues. If no a/c then the fan will come on automatically each time the temp needle reaches about 3/4 on the gauge and quickly pull the temperature back down.

About the only thing I can think of that this procedure is doing that might be helpful is reversing the fluid flow through some of those tiny channels inside the valve body and [possibly] clearing some sediment that is partially blocking normal flow.

I think I might have reversed things -- no pun intended. Run it in reverse for 30 minutes, then change the fluid and filter (clean the magnet if its still there) and then run in reverse for another 30 minutes. If perchance it really is removing some partial blockage then try to catch it in your old filter or have it come out when you drain the ATF. Don't loosen it into your brand new fluid if you can help it.

But if experience says it works, hey, never look a gift horse in the mouth.

 

All great feedback, appreciate it!

I will be doing a "reverse slam" fix attempt this weekend, maybe tomorrow if I get the chance and will update you guys on it. I have a notorious reverse slam issue, where I have to put it in neutral for a few seconds before reverse to avoid the slam. And slam is an understatement. The few times its happened I thought the car had ripped in half. Have avoided it for a long time now with the slow shift from neutral. If this "fix" helps it even a bit, I will be pretty stoked.

 

Alright, found time to try the reverse slam cure last night. Drained the transmission fluid, probably first time in 240k miles its been done. Fluid was filthy. Changed filter, which had so much engine gunk from years of hanging out there, that I had to wipe it down to find it. Changed everything, put it in reverse for 30 minutes and am having no issues with reverse now. It is very smooth, moves into gear at normal timing now. Dont have to go into neutral first anymore.

Ill try it a few more times today after a few long drives to make sure it works when everything is scathing hot, but the 10 times I did it yesterday, no issues. For a total of $50 in parts(Fluid, filter and Lucas transmission slip fix) its definitely a great first start for anyone thats having this issue.

 

That's great news Judobrad. Glad it worked for you and especially glad that you took the time to post your results.

 

So, I dropped the car off to get the crankshaft sensor changed. The mechanic called me and said he didnt want me to waste money on changing it as he says he believes via diagnostics that its the timing chain thats the problem. Super stoked by that diagnosis.

I asked for the cost of repair and he asked with the car having that many mileage if I really wanted it done. Told him other than that, the car is a champ, so the investment is worth it. Quoted me $650 to repair it.

So that leads me to this question. I am not a mechanic by any means, but I am probably above average on car repair knowledge. Only time I use a mechanic is if I need a lift or some crazy tool that costs more than the labor to fix it. Ive done all of my own basic repairs, but never real engine work like this. Ive seen plenty of DIY videos online and it doesnt seem over complicated. Time consuming, but not complicated. If I did this repair myself, would I be getting in over my head? Ill have to invest a bit in some tools that I may not have, but in the end Im saving myself almost $400 doing it on my own.

Any thoughts?

 

That price quoted seems a bit high to me...but maybe there's something about that job on your car that drives the labor cost up somehow...I was expecting something more in the $350 range, and at that cost it's well worth having a pro do it for you...

 

Keith I never got the code thats why I never posted it. The guy at Advance Auto Parts said that when hooked up to my car it just said Crankshaft Sensor. The mechanic hooked it up to a much better machine and it said that it kept alternating between Crankshaft and Camshaft(I believe thats what he said) but he said that it kept switching from one to another which is always indicative of a bad timing chain/Loose timing chain,etc.