Absolutely fascinating, Kieth...my mind is stretching a bit to try and wrap around your post...if I'm grasping the concept here, the only actual rotaing member would be the crankshaft? Everything else, including the water and oil pumps could be electronically controlled, no? And the valves would be controlled by electronically-fired solenoids...thereby negating the need for cam-shafts?
Could feasibly completely change the shape of our "engines" as we know them, the old "pancake" engine form could be making a huge comeback soon...think of the space-saving features here...not to mention the fuel-savings of having a multi-faceted engine that could go 6-stroke, 4-stroke or 2-stroke in a heartbeat would enable...
Not sure if my earning category would put me at the head of the line for the first vehicle sporting that motor, but damn, hopefully at some point!

 

back to the subject at hand, shall we?

With the understanding that the following is from a 1991-1993 chilton's wiring diagram for 93 coupes:

In the underhood junction block there should be 2 10A fuses one for LH DR and one for RH DR.

Trace these wires --they should go directly to the headlamp controller module you seek.

I'd list the colors of these wires but the ink has bled and I can't make them out.

Alternatively, trace the wires in and out of the door motors themselves -- the module connects to both ends (electrically speaking) of each motor

L side: Orange/Black stripe in, Dark Green/White Stripe out.
R Side: Orange in, Dark Brown out


Still digesting the overall wiring diagram which includes the headlamp switch to try to figure out how the circuit is designed

 

Thanks derf, I found those fuses and wires. I was looking to see if there was some form of a main fuse that supplied power to those two as it appeared odd that both doors failed to operate. I could not really see down under the fuse box and other parts on the fender wells unless I started removing parts. But then I discovered if I flashed the high beams as a road request then both doors opened and the lights came on which told me that those two fuses were probably good. And I did find a master fuse in what is called the instrument panel cluster fuse block,that is the one in the passenger side of the consul. The wiring diagrams showed it as supplying power to the two fuses one for each door.
Further investigation pointed at the rotory selector switch on the steering column for turning on the head lights and opening the doors. Or leaving the doors open with the head lights on and yesterday or so, when I went out to tackle this thing, the rotary swich suddenly started operating the head lights and doors correctly. And I have not had a failure yet. This is leading me to believe the switch contacts for the rotary switch had oxidized and two days of fiddling with the thing cleaned the oxidized contacts up as I have not had a failure yet.
NEXT? I have to mount two tires, balance them and put on the front, move the front to the rear and throw away a pair of dryrotted Goodyears with almost complete tread left on them. What a waste they were.
Thanks again.

 

I'm of the impression that the only power for the headlight doors comes through those fuses, which go directly to the main +12volt bus on the UHJB (constantly hot) ...

 

Where as that sounds logical, the service information I have indicated another fuse was also part of the story, as indicated it was on the Instrument panel fuse block located on the center consul.

But let me point out, that is a moot point at this point in time.
1. All fuses were good when checked. Not that there might not be some form of corrosion problem at a connector or in the fuse block itself that could aggravate the problem.
2. As pointed out by another poster on the subject of service documentation using alltrade (correct spelling? I had never heard of them) as a reference. Something less than a factory service manual stands the possibility of having errors.
As for my Saturn I do not have a factory manual. I have a Haynes which has proven to be a valuable purchase and cost effective for the price paid for it and also using both other open public service literature which is both affordable and also general knowledge thus prone to abbreviations, elimination of what might be considered superfluous information and generalization, errors and not keeping up with running changes is pretty much to be expected. The stuff on the whole is cost effective and generally about 20% of Factory prices on service literature.
The stuff comes under the heading of it is better than nothing. And I have a large collection of that.
I recently paid almost 100 dollars for a 1977 set of factory manuals for my 1976 AMC Hornet. Yes they are one year different but I also own all the trim panels to clone a 1977 AMX and the manuals are close enough between years to cover the 1976 car but also tells me how to install the 1977 trim panels.
Auto, Chilton, Haynes and Mitchel's all look as if the same company printed them using the same data base and the same service format.
The only difference seems to be the cover. While each of us have our favorite, I am reasonably sure that there is not a whit of difference between them.
And 3
The biggest problem that I see is not having anything at all rather than whether something is correct or not.
Although correct is nice, so is a pencil and I have a copious collection of notes in my most off used manuals.

And last but not least the problem seems to have been dirty contacts on the switch that is buried some where inside the steering column. While I probably can pull this steering wheel I would rather not. The plastic material for the air bag is brittle and I am afraid it would turn into plastic shreds if I tried to remove it and I have pulled enough columns apart in my life to have learned that nothing inside a steering wheel is easy to get to it and I would rather not if I did not have to. And as the problem seems to have magically gone away, actually pulling something apart just because I might find something is not a valid excuse at the moment to do it.