Cool well at least I know where to charge my system after I replace the compressor...I am used to residential units and commercial units, I have not really done much work with cars though...same process yet a little different. I will keep you informed on everything. Have a good one guys.

And yes I have found most people with Saturns seem to be friendly lol (could be cause people with Saturns a more calm naturally lol)

 

ok -- will pressurize to 70 PSI in the morning and give it a go with the gauges...thanks for the target pressures....

 

Charged low side to about 60 psi...

A/C clutch engaged/cooling fan came on! So high/low pressure switch is functional. I was apparently not charging it enough in static (non-running) mode.

Results:

Static measurement (car off and car on with A/C off):

High Side: 60 PSI
Low Side: 60 PSI

Car On, A/C on Max, 3 minutes running A/C

High Side: 75 PSI
Low Side: 40 PSI

No cooling, of course....and pressure slowly leaving system through as yet undetermined leak (turned off A/C, low side pressure down to 55 already)

Your analysis, OA (please)?

Derf

 

-- short and brutal --> compressor is shot. Sorry to bring the bad news..........

 

Thank you -- I suppose this may also be the source of the leak?

Would you recommend testing with dye with the current compressor in place to ensure that my system is not riddled with other leaks? I would hate to blow cash on a new compressor only to find out that the condenser or evaporator is leaky and also needs to be replaced....

It should have enough pressure to circulate the dye, yes (maybe?)

 

Ok so I am about to put refrigerant in my system, the only problem is the small canisters that you buy for it...go on this gauge that hooks onto the suction line...which goes straight into the compressor...if I get liquid refrigerant into the compressor it will be shot...how do I put the refrigerant into the system if there gauge does not go on the discharge line? I mean I would use my gauges but it doesnt fit the small cans...so what do I do?

 

Hey Derf just go to a junk yard, I went to Pick-a-Part and bought one for $40.50...and when I turn in my old one I will get $7.50 back! They garrentee it for 45 days, so if it works great, if not...return it for full money back...that is the best way to go!

Look up pick-a-part on the net in your city or if you live in a small one, try the large city near by, they have junk yards all around the country!

 

I talked to a buddy and he told me a car compressor is more of a pump then a compressor...so I went ahead and added refrigerant. After one can the pressure was 70 psi...that didn't look right (plus car was running with full ac and fan, but the ac didn't kick on), so I added another half can and it went up to 85...so I said forget it and and jumpered it out, the pressure on the low side dropped to 40 psi...now I didn't take a measurement on the high side because my hose leaks on that side...but I have to anyways. I know I cant have enough refrigerant, so...maybe when my last compressor went out, the junk from it went into the expansion device...I just want to make sure I am correct with this...if it went into the expansion devise the high side should be extremely high? But if I have a low reading on the high side like say...100, then this compressor is most likely shot? OA please let me know something, thanks .

Oh and then I unjumpered it and let a little refrigerant out to make the pressure like 75 psi...and then jumpered...same result. When jumpered the cooling might have worked a tiny smudgen...but wasn't even sure if it did work! I figure that is due to not enough refrigerant...so one of those two problems are accurring if I am correct...thanks!

 

actually, sounds like a combination of things. I've found during my testing that 60 psi low side (A/C off) is about what it takes to keep the low pressure switch closed and therefore to keep the clutch enable signal capable of being engaged through the relay by the PCM. 85 psi low side should be much more than enough.

Check the wiring around and at the pressure switch OA described above (trinary switch) when answering my post.

Ironically, after adding UV dye and failing to find a visible leak and driving around with the A/C on to circ the dye, my hi and low side pressures are now 100 and 35, and the compressor is making a nasty metallic rubbing sound at low rpms, so indeed mine is shot. Based on the pressure differential the dye SHOULD be distributed throughout the system, but I can't confirm this. If the Thermal Expansion valve is malfunctioning or obstructed it may be preventing dye circulation. I would expect the pressure to be pretty damn high if there was a high side obstruction (upwards of 200 psi) --but OA will be able to give you a better idea.....

 

Alright so I jumpered aroundthe high side, and my engine rose a little like it should, but the clutch never engaged...to get further on, the trinary switch has to be bad, but I can't get it at O'Reilly or a GM dealer lol, I have to go straight to a Saturn dealer to even have hopes of getting one! So this is what I have done until the part can get to me...yeah I Jerry rigged it! I ran a line from my battery into my car to a toggle switch, then the other side to the clutch...at least it will work for tomorrow night on my date lol. I won't use it other then that though. Oh my pressures running is high side 150, low side is between 35 and 40. Off my pressures are like 85...but I only put a little over one can of refrigerant! Kinda wierd but hey it is cooling. If you have any other suggestion feel free guys.