I'll let you in on a little secret as long as you don't spread it because I don't know how true it is across all of that site.

There are posts on Reddit where people have figured out how to request specific pages from specific sections that existed on the site. It's a royal pain in the ***. But it can be doable if you know what you're looking for in advance.

But that's not the point. The point is that some of the actual forum structure and content still exists.

I think what happened is that the database tables got completely f'd when it crashed. That is my personal opinion rumor.

Somebody bought that domain for a reason.

If the majority of the actual thread pages still exist, it can be reverse engineered and they can put Humpty back together again. Insane amount of manual work but who knows.

If that ever does get restored, I wouldn't be the slightest bit surprised if the site required a paid membership going forward to compensate those who spent or will probably take years to restore. If I'm right.

In an unrelated manner, I have a early '70s sansui receiver that is in dire need of restoration. It is all discreet component on PCB. Would you like to restore it for kicks? I have full schematics.

Then there is the reverb unit on my early '80s Peavey 100 watt amp. It goes into self-oscillation without stuffing a towel under the springs. Even then, if the master volume is turned up too high, it will still starting with the positive feedback no matter which way I'm facing. This seems like a good subject for a private message so that I can spare the rest of you.

 

Page 176 of the GM Saturn Electronic Engine Controls book,

For the TBI cars:

"The PCM pulses the injectors at least once every crankshaft revolution."

Sansui K 5000? Nice sounding rig! Or is it the 4000?

The driver boards are a nightmare, oscillation, 7 pin FET chip that is unobtainium, I try to steer clear if those,

What you want is a Marantz 2270.

Try some DeOxit on those PV RCA jacks.
​​​​​​

 

It's a sansui 2000. Rescued from going into a dumpster with some old pioneer speakers and a dual 1019 turntable.

They belong to my great nephew who saved them from their demise. Speakers need new caps, same vintage.

I have the turntable sorted out and functional.

 

[QUOTE=derf;76963]Hey Marty,

Any progress to report?

Thanks for the replies.
I decided to install a new ignition control module but am waiting till next weekend 2/ 15/25 to try to do the entire job. I took the air box off to get access to the ig. module hold-down bolts and put some WD40 on the bolt heads to soak in, in the hopes they come out easy. I'd like to take the AC hoses off too temporarily for more access ?? I don't use the AC.

-Marty

 

Simply unmount the AC compressor from its bracket or unmount That bracket from whatever it is mounted to, although I think you have to remove the compressor to remove the bracket so just remove the compressor. This will allow you to swing it out of the way along with the AC lines still connected.

Use a rust penetrant like PB blaster in place of WD-40. PB blaster is formulated to enzymatically break down rust and corrosion. WD-40 not only is not a lubricant, but it is in fact a water repellent. I believe the company now claims that it has lubricant properties based on what's in it, but in this case you're not looking for a lubricant so use the blaster.

Since you're doing it this weekend, I would hit it twice a day everyday to ensure the rust is softened up.

Make sure to use a 6 point socket and do not try to force the bolts If they will not budge. That's when they snap off. If you get them even the slightest bit broken loose, start hitting it every 15 minutes with blaster, then continue trying to remove them.

Take your time and don't put your body weight into it at the beginning when you don't know whether it will break loose.

 

Derf,

I wasn't aware of the PB blaster......a few years ago I bought an entire gallon of WD-40 thinking I would eventually use it all. I've used maybe a quarter of it for various projects. I'll pick up some of the PB blaster too. My SW2 has always been garaged so the ignition module bolt heads look to be pretty rust free but if in doubt I always try to hit things with WD-40 a few days before trying to loosen them.

I'll let the group know how things went after the weekend.
Thanks,
-Marty

 

Disconnect negative battery terminal

IMPORTANT: Note which spark plug wire is removed from which coil tower.

Disconnect spark plug wires from coil towers.

Disconnect electrical connectors at the ignition module.

Remove bolts from ignition module and remove.

(My car had some tight bolts, I used Tri Flow oil on them overnight, then tried to tighten them until I felt them break loose just a tiny bit, then loosened them.)

INSTALLATION:

NOTICE: Run a tap through the ignition module mounting holes to remove any thread sealant residue.

Tap size is M6 x 1.0 mm

New ignition bolts have a factory applied yellow sealant. Make sure EI module and mating surface and holes are free from any old sealant, grit and dirt.

NOTICE: Always use new ignition module bolts to insure proper thread sealant.

Install ignition module and bolts.

NOTICE: Use extreme caution when installing the ignition module bolts. Make sure the bolt head is seated on the ignition module when the torque specification is reached. If the bolt head is not seated on the ignition module, remove the bolt and tap the hole to clean any debris from the threads.

Torque: 8 N*m (71 inch-lbs)

CAUTION: OVER TORQUING OF THE IGNITION MODULE WILL RESULT IN CRACKING THE COIL HOUSING AND DAMAGING THE COIL.

Connect the electrical connectors to the ignition module. Push until a click is heard then pull back to confirm a positive engagement.

Connect spark plug wires to coil towers. Press the spark plug boots firmly into place. (I burp mine)

IMPORTANT: Connect the spark plug wires to the correct coil towers. Refer to engine sticker.

Connect negative battery cable.

The dealer usually puts in new coils with the ignition module as to not take out the module if the coils are bad. You can use an ohm meter between coil towers to check for shorts or open circuits. You should read about 7 to 10 K Ohms.

Do not use any heat sink compound as to avoid having a bad ground. You don't need it for this large a surface anyway as the heat transfer coefficient is very good all by itself.

 

I installed a new ignition module to address code 41. I disconnected the battery and I labeled the plug wires. I unbolted one end of the rear-most AC hose (10mm bolt , by compressor) and the plastic air box to get more access. The existing ignition module bolts (8mm) came out easy. I cleaned up some grime near where the new module would mount and did more cleaning with some steel wool and a Dremel tool wire brush on the coil towers which were oxidized. I was wondering if I should put in new coils ?? But I used the old ones cleaned up.

I put some dielectric grease on the module connector pins. The left electronic connector of the ignition module was stubborn getting plugged back in.
I put everything back together and started her up. It started up and idled good, though I haven't had time to road test yet in daylight. After idling, the check engine light came on and when I checked it with a jumper, it's just putting out the # 12 over and over. Will this check engine light clear after a few miles of driving ? I also bought some new plug wires but will install those soon. I'll road test this weekend.

Thanks for everyone's help !

-Marty

 

12 means no codes. End of test mode.

 

Agreed, but then why is the SES on?

Is it on solid or is it on blinking?