Replacing oil pan - Need info
#11
07-27-2017, 10:09 PM
Sorry all. I just finished replacing the pan this weekend. I know. It's been awhile. Life caught up to me. I got everything installed and so far no leaks with my tests. However! My luck had to fail me and when I went to install the exhaust pipe and the bolt broke. I've posted pictures. Basically two bolts came out with what looks like a pin while the other came out with just the nut. So I was wondering what you guys think I should do.
#12
07-27-2017, 11:20 PM
Did that stud break coming out or going back in? If you can drop the pipe out of the way the broken stud can be drilled out. The exhaust will leak with only two fasteners out of three. You may have to remove the manifold to repair the threads. If you do not have the expertise or tools an automotive machine shop can repair the threads.
The complete stud and the nut can be reused the way they are. The broken stud is the only problem.
The complete stud and the nut can be reused the way they are. The broken stud is the only problem.
#13
07-27-2017, 11:25 PM
Did that stud break coming out or going back in? If you can drop the pipe out of the way the broken stud can be drilled out. The exhaust will leak with only two fasteners out of three. You may have to remove the manifold to repair the threads. If you do not have the expertise or tools an automotive machine shop can repair the threads.
The complete stud and the nut can be reused the way they are. The broken stud is the only problem.
The complete stud and the nut can be reused the way they are. The broken stud is the only problem.
#14
07-28-2017, 09:33 AM
If you're going to have to replace one, I'd recommend replacing all 3. They won't cost that much more and will probably last as long as the car does.
#15
07-28-2017, 10:31 AM
Exhaust pipe to manifold fasteners are a problem for most people. One nut behaved properly and came off the stud. One stuck to the stud and the stud unscrewed. One stuck to the stud and the stud seized in the manifold and broke.
There should be a set of three available at a large parts store in the correct size. Removing the broken stud is going to be the hard part.
There should be a set of three available at a large parts store in the correct size. Removing the broken stud is going to be the hard part.
#16
07-29-2017, 06:11 AM
I agree about removing the broken one being the hard part. I'd remove the exhaust manifold and go about it that way, rather than try to drill it out from under the car. That's just a couple of accidents waiting to happen.
#17
08-12-2017, 12:22 AM
by the looks of it. It almost seems like I would have to take a lot of the car cooling system out. Is that so? Sorry I haven't updated you guys. Just moved into our new house. Life has been hectic.
#18
09-15-2019, 09:13 AM
Random question
There is no pan gasket per say, just use the correct silicone gasket maker in a tube. I have a factory service manual set that covers these cars quite well. Factory service manuals are written for professional mechanics, the Chilton and Haynes are more for the home mechanic.
Your engine has a front cover, GM refers to it as the nose cone. The factory service manual assumes you will remove things for clearance. The manual says:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove nose cone bracket bolts from pan.
3. Remove lower transmission flange to oil pan bolts.
4. Remove oil pan bolts.
Notice: when removing oil pan, use only disignated pry points to prevent damage to the sealing flange. RTV cutter tool SA9123E may be used to break the oil pan loose from the engine block.
5. Use pry points to break loose the seal. Bump the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen the pan from the engine block.
6. Remove oil pan.
I do not use a cutter or rubber mallet. The pry points will pop the pan loose from the block. You can beat on your broken pan if needed.
The factory uses a couple alignment pins to install the pan perfectly. I just apply the sealer and start all the bolts by hand. Since the pan is secured in two directions do not torque any until all are snug.
Factory recommendation is Locktite 5900 or equivalent.
Your engine has a front cover, GM refers to it as the nose cone. The factory service manual assumes you will remove things for clearance. The manual says:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove nose cone bracket bolts from pan.
3. Remove lower transmission flange to oil pan bolts.
4. Remove oil pan bolts.
Notice: when removing oil pan, use only disignated pry points to prevent damage to the sealing flange. RTV cutter tool SA9123E may be used to break the oil pan loose from the engine block.
5. Use pry points to break loose the seal. Bump the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen the pan from the engine block.
6. Remove oil pan.
I do not use a cutter or rubber mallet. The pry points will pop the pan loose from the block. You can beat on your broken pan if needed.
The factory uses a couple alignment pins to install the pan perfectly. I just apply the sealer and start all the bolts by hand. Since the pan is secured in two directions do not torque any until all are snug.
Factory recommendation is Locktite 5900 or equivalent.
2. The engine starts very loudly to like it has a hemi or something.
