Ignition Cylinder
#1
Ignition Cylinder
Hello all,
My name is Zack and I have a 2001 L200.
About a month a go I had a new key made by the vin#. Now about a week ago. My steering column is locking up and the key won't turn. If the key is in the ignition and I tap it with a hammer, I can eventually get the key to turn and the car to start.
By looking up online it looks like my ignition cylinder is bad.
1) Is this a simple fix to do myself? If yes, how do I get a copy of key?
2) Should I take this to a shop?
Thank you all. I really appreciate your input.
My name is Zack and I have a 2001 L200.
About a month a go I had a new key made by the vin#. Now about a week ago. My steering column is locking up and the key won't turn. If the key is in the ignition and I tap it with a hammer, I can eventually get the key to turn and the car to start.
By looking up online it looks like my ignition cylinder is bad.
1) Is this a simple fix to do myself? If yes, how do I get a copy of key?
2) Should I take this to a shop?
Thank you all. I really appreciate your input.
#2
from research on L series (2000 LS2)
__________________
If your lock turns the simple instructions are:
1) remove the upper shroud - there are three screws on the bottom shroud holding them together. Once you remove the screws there are additional plastic tabs you'll have to pull apart.
2) pry off the "cylinder lock bezel" - it's the plastic piece with the "ACC, RUN, START" labeling around the cylinder.
2a) IMPORTANT: Auto Trans: Put the car in Drive + Engage E-brake to keep car from starting. Manual Trans: Neutral, foot OFF of clutch pedal
3) turn the key to START
4) There is a hole above the lock cylinder that accesses the release to remove the lock cylinder. Just push a small screw driver in there and push down on the lock pin. The cylinder should just pull out.
If your lock cannot be turned to the START position, then you will have to drill out the lock pin to get the cyl out.
Look for and remove debris in the housing when you pull the lock cyl; there may just be metal shavings and such that are binding up the cyl when trying to rotate. I have seen posts stating a cleaning of the area and orig cyl of metal debris made everything function properly.
Your call.
__________________
As far as replacement/keying, you can either
--- buy an OEM lock cyl and have a GM dealer set the tumblers to match your VIN
(end result: entire car remains keyed off of a single key)
---buy an aftermarket lock cyl that comes with it's own key
(end result: 1 key for ign, 1 key for everything else)
And I wouldn't push your luck w the hammer. Address the situation before you end up w a completely stuck or broken off key, which will make this much more difficult to repair. Remember you need to be able to rotate it to the START position
__________________
If your lock turns the simple instructions are:
1) remove the upper shroud - there are three screws on the bottom shroud holding them together. Once you remove the screws there are additional plastic tabs you'll have to pull apart.
2) pry off the "cylinder lock bezel" - it's the plastic piece with the "ACC, RUN, START" labeling around the cylinder.
2a) IMPORTANT: Auto Trans: Put the car in Drive + Engage E-brake to keep car from starting. Manual Trans: Neutral, foot OFF of clutch pedal
3) turn the key to START
4) There is a hole above the lock cylinder that accesses the release to remove the lock cylinder. Just push a small screw driver in there and push down on the lock pin. The cylinder should just pull out.
If your lock cannot be turned to the START position, then you will have to drill out the lock pin to get the cyl out.
Look for and remove debris in the housing when you pull the lock cyl; there may just be metal shavings and such that are binding up the cyl when trying to rotate. I have seen posts stating a cleaning of the area and orig cyl of metal debris made everything function properly.
Your call.
__________________
As far as replacement/keying, you can either
--- buy an OEM lock cyl and have a GM dealer set the tumblers to match your VIN
(end result: entire car remains keyed off of a single key)
---buy an aftermarket lock cyl that comes with it's own key
(end result: 1 key for ign, 1 key for everything else)
And I wouldn't push your luck w the hammer. Address the situation before you end up w a completely stuck or broken off key, which will make this much more difficult to repair. Remember you need to be able to rotate it to the START position
#5
from research on L series (2000 LS2)
__________________
If your lock turns the simple instructions are:
1) remove the upper shroud - there are three screws on the bottom shroud holding them together. Once you remove the screws there are additional plastic tabs you'll have to pull apart.
2) pry off the "cylinder lock bezel" - it's the plastic piece with the "ACC, RUN, START" labeling around the cylinder.
2a) IMPORTANT: Auto Trans: Put the car in Drive + Engage E-brake to keep car from starting. Manual Trans: Neutral, foot OFF of clutch pedal
3) turn the key to START
4) There is a hole above the lock cylinder that accesses the release to remove the lock cylinder. Just push a small screw driver in there and push down on the lock pin. The cylinder should just pull out.
If your lock cannot be turned to the START position, then you will have to drill out the lock pin to get the cyl out.
Look for and remove debris in the housing when you pull the lock cyl; there may just be metal shavings and such that are binding up the cyl when trying to rotate. I have seen posts stating a cleaning of the area and orig cyl of metal debris made everything function properly.
Your call.
__________________
As far as replacement/keying, you can either
--- buy an OEM lock cyl and have a GM dealer set the tumblers to match your VIN
(end result: entire car remains keyed off of a single key)
---buy an aftermarket lock cyl that comes with it's own key
(end result: 1 key for ign, 1 key for everything else)
And I wouldn't push your luck w the hammer. Address the situation before you end up w a completely stuck or broken off key, which will make this much more difficult to repair. Remember you need to be able to rotate it to the START position
__________________
If your lock turns the simple instructions are:
1) remove the upper shroud - there are three screws on the bottom shroud holding them together. Once you remove the screws there are additional plastic tabs you'll have to pull apart.
2) pry off the "cylinder lock bezel" - it's the plastic piece with the "ACC, RUN, START" labeling around the cylinder.
2a) IMPORTANT: Auto Trans: Put the car in Drive + Engage E-brake to keep car from starting. Manual Trans: Neutral, foot OFF of clutch pedal
3) turn the key to START
4) There is a hole above the lock cylinder that accesses the release to remove the lock cylinder. Just push a small screw driver in there and push down on the lock pin. The cylinder should just pull out.
If your lock cannot be turned to the START position, then you will have to drill out the lock pin to get the cyl out.
Look for and remove debris in the housing when you pull the lock cyl; there may just be metal shavings and such that are binding up the cyl when trying to rotate. I have seen posts stating a cleaning of the area and orig cyl of metal debris made everything function properly.
Your call.
__________________
As far as replacement/keying, you can either
--- buy an OEM lock cyl and have a GM dealer set the tumblers to match your VIN
(end result: entire car remains keyed off of a single key)
---buy an aftermarket lock cyl that comes with it's own key
(end result: 1 key for ign, 1 key for everything else)
And I wouldn't push your luck w the hammer. Address the situation before you end up w a completely stuck or broken off key, which will make this much more difficult to repair. Remember you need to be able to rotate it to the START position
Last edited by spartan89; 05-18-2015 at 02:48 PM.
#6
I got an extra because my original was worn down. It would start the car but not open the doors. I would get into the car using the fob, but I broker it.
#7
Another importing thing to mention. When I first had trouble starting the car, I was able to rotate the steering wheel 1/2 turn and the tires did not move. Do you think this is a bigger problem like the steering column?
When I was able to getting started by pulling the wheel down to get to the grocery store and with the hammer to get the car back to the grocery store, the steering seemed fine.
When I was able to getting started by pulling the wheel down to get to the grocery store and with the hammer to get the car back to the grocery store, the steering seemed fine.
#8
i think it prob depends on which direction your wheels were pointed in at the time. If they're cranked all the way to one side, then you will easily see them move, but if they are close to center you may not be able to tell.