There is a U-shape cast flange (goes around the bottom of the pulley) which is mm's away from the back side of the pulley. How would I slide a belt between that space? If I could make a loop and drop it around the pulley and up against the crank gear, that would be wonderful, but there is no room to do that. If there is a method... do tell.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...5a52859892.jpg

Sorry guys, I mistakenly started this thread twice once in the general intro area and one in the LS forum.

Anything that can rust has rust, but it's still okay. The car looks great. Lot's of work to do, but it is cheaper than a new car. My Mom and Wife both bought the same vehicle in 2000. My Mom's frame or something broke and she had it junked before I could scrap some parts! I just put new brakes and rotors, and tires... then the timing belt tensioner dies! If I can get the timing belt kit installed, all timed up and fix the AC... I'll be happy.

To help those that follow, I finally got the crankshaft pulley/harmonic removed and the crankshaft center bolt does NOT need to be removed. This is how I did it. I sprayed the front and back of the crankshaft pulley with WD40. I soaked it! The next day, I used the serpentine belt to loop around the crankshaft pulley and I seriously yanked on the pulley. It didn't move. I repositioned the belt to pull force in a different direction (toward the front of the car this time), and it didn't move. I did this a few more times in different directions and it didn't move. I then used a 3' long crowbar against the back edge of the pulley and the pivot on one of the timing belt pulleys (that will be replaced) and the crankshaft pulley started to move! I was very gentle and used little effort with the 3' crowbar and the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer dropped off! Big Smile!

The crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer has a lip on the back side which overlaps the metal plate which the 6 bolts screw in to. It isn't "keyed", just pressed on so that when at TDC, the timing mark is approx. at 2 o clock. It is this junction on the back where the rust formed. So spraying the back side and each bolt hole with WD40 was helpful. I used the WD40 long straw and pointed it behind the pulley while spraying. You can see the rust on the pictures below. Notice the position of the crank. I pried at about 2 o clock and in that direction the pulley could pivot. It was the only direction the pulley could have moved to start coming off. I got lucky!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...3efaba12a4.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...16bca9aab0.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...94918770fb.jpg




I would like to thank Saturn Forum for helping. Knowing the crankshaft center bolt does NOT need to be removed was key and gave me the confidence and ability to get this beotch pulley off!

There was an issue early in the 2000s on L series for prematue timing belt failures. I don't remember the years nor whether it was for the 2.2s or both 2.2 and V6.

Also, if your tensioner let loose, how many valves were mangled?

Cam 1 is retarded by one tooth. There are metal filings coming out of the belt tensioner. The belt didn't break. I don't know if any values were damaged. The engine ran, but poorly. I am moving forward to install a timing belt kit and see what happens. I'll post a follow up. Wish me luck! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...9eaa30dc84.jpg

Moved to L Sedan section

It's Working as Luke Skywalker would say
 

I finally got the timing belt installed and the hood closed! It started right up and if there is any value damage it sure doesn't run like it. Smooth and Fast. A couple take aways, the crankshaft pulley was a real bear to take off, it was rusted on. I had to spray it down with WD40, let it sit for a night, then gentle pry bar action worked. If the crank is set to 10 o clock before TDC, you can gently pry on it at approx. 2 o clock location onf the harmonic balancer. There are two flat spots that allow the crank pulley to break free. Also, don't try to do this job with the freaking plastic wiring harness in your way. Disconnect the AC wire and get that mess out of your way. I jacked the engine up just a bit and that helped too. Lastly, when you set 3 and 4 cams and torque the lower pulley... lock the 3 and 4 pulleys BEFORE adjusting 1 and 2 cams. As I found out if you don't do this step... the belt will alter timing and the next 2 fully turns of the crank will result in repeating the procedure. Everything appears to be working, but the timing belt is noisy. I'm not sure if I have a rub, too tight, I screwed up something or it's just the belt. I'm going to run it a bit and then take another look inside to be sure everything is still set properly. This was my first time changing a timing belt and I must admit... it took me 4 tries to get it right. The third attempt resulted in everything letting loose and I had to re-time everything! I was worried I might even had gotten the crank 180 out of phase. Luckily, that didn't happen. I did break off a water pump bolt using my new cheap crappy torque wrench! Best to buy good tools even if it's a one shot deal. I took a few pictures I'll try to post later. Our Saturn LS2 sat outside in the winter, had 7' of snow on it, rusted the brakes badly, rain on me constantly while working between storms... but, I got it done. Looking back... it's not difficult yet doing it for the first time was a boetch! Thanks to everyone here that helped! This is a great resource! - Rj Beyond Harvest Veganistas a fb group... ps. One more thing. I created a White House Petition to End Chem Trails. I'm sure you guys know exactly what I'm talking about. I need 100,000 signatures before the WH will take up the issue. Check it out, please sign and share! The chemical warfare being sprayed on us is pure evil and it must end! https://petitions.whitehouse.gov/petition/end-geoengineering-ie-chem-trails-24-hours-executive-order I hope it is okay to post this here. It is really important to all Americans! - Thanks

Finished Look at the Timing Belt After Repair
 

Notice the Upper and Lower pulleys are not at 10 and 11 O Clock as stated in the manual. This is because these are only starting positions to set the timing. All timing marks are spot ON and the belt tensioner mark is at the top of the range. I didn't have any thread lock for the belt tensioner bolt, but it didn't move easily. I hope it's okay.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...5c02137bd9.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...0d9b8f30a5.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...f7ce246bbe.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...cc6082c035.jpg
Next up... AC Clutch Coil replacement or repair. Then, frame rust and possibly coil overs. My wife loves this car and I hope to keep it running for her for several more years. Thanks everyone!
Rj
ps... Please take a look at my White House Petition to end Chem Trails. Here is a link https://petitions.whitehouse.gov/pet...xecutive-order