2000 LS2 3.0L Timing Belt Question
My wife and I bought this Saturn in 2000 and have always relied on the local garages for repairs. Lately, they have been charging WAY too much. I worked on cars when I was young so I decided to do my own repairs. We don't want to buy a new car, so I'll be working on this vehicle for the rest of my life! My wife loves this car. It's been pretty good, but expensive. It only has 117,000 miles. Still looks nice, but various things need replacing. More later. We drove 100 miles to visit family at Christmas... made it home fine, the next morning the timing belt tensioner gave up the ghost and cam 1 retarded one tooth. I've been working on it now since it warmed up and I'm stuck! I have it all apart and I am starting to wonder if I can put it back together!
On YT, people say you don't have to remove the crankshaft pulley to replace the timing belt on a 3.0L engine. With this engine... there is NO way to thread the timing off or On without taking off the crankshaft pulley. I removed the 6 bolts according to the maintenance manual. It doesn't say anything about how exactly to remove the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer and it jumps right to building a DIY tool to hold the crankshaft while loosening the crankshaft end bolt. But, the pulley is removed already. What am I missing here! It's NOT falling off and I am wondering if the crankshaft end bolt needs to be removed to get this pulley off? Anyone know how to get this beast of a pulley off??? Thanks Rj |
Welcome! I will pull my fsm out and get back to you. |
Here's a photo of what I'm looking at. I can't tell if the crank bolt must be removed or if the pulley is just rusted in place. Either way, I have to remove the pulley to change the timing belt.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...e364bc710f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...58ae1ac6cc.jpg |
You do not need to remove the center bolt and the timing belt sprocket unless you need to replace the crank seal or work on the oil pump. The fan belt pulley/balancer comes off after you remove the six little bolts. Your pulley may just be stuck after 18 years and never being taken off. |
My manual says you can get the belt off and back on without removing that part. |
it looks like your pulley is just rusted to the belt sprocket. Do not remove the center bolt. |
Thank you so much! I sprayed it down completely in hope the rust will give way. Might you have a photo of a pulley/balancer off of the mount? I can't find a picture of it anywhere. If I do get this beotch off, I'll post a picture. Any wisdom on how to beat the beotch enough to fall off?
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The fsm has drawings only, I can not access the 3.0 I have out right now. I assume that when you removed the six small bolts nothing came off. My power steering pulley was very stuck on my 3.0. I actually bent the p/s pulley a little when I changed my water pump. |
Right, the pulley just remained in place. I gently tapped around the pulley, but it sounds like one piece of metal.
The power steering pulley literally fell off. The pump leaked for 18 years and everything is covered in steering fluid. Everything, but the crank shaft pulley/harmonic balancer. I'll just keep spraying it for few days and tapping on it. I wouldn't feel safe using heat because I would melt the rubber. Any idea how to replace the timing belt without taking the crankshaft pulley off? I don't see enough room anywhere to slide off the bad belt and install the new! Have you ever replaced or hacked the thermal fuse inside the compressor clutch? I believe the fuse is bad and I'm going to try and fix it. Trying to get the bolt loose to remove the clutch is a difficult. The thing spins and I can't see anyway to hold it still. It's on the car so it's hard to work on. |
I have had the coil itself fail and have replaced it with the compressor on the car. How rusty is your car? I live in the NW and cars don’t rust here except on the coast. You need to get the balancer off to replace the timing belt. |
Originally Posted by 02 LW300
(Post 59528)
My manual says you can get the belt off and back on without removing that part. |
Sorry guys, I mistakenly started this thread twice once in the general intro area and one in the LS forum.
Anything that can rust has rust, but it's still okay. The car looks great. Lot's of work to do, but it is cheaper than a new car. My Mom and Wife both bought the same vehicle in 2000. My Mom's frame or something broke and she had it junked before I could scrap some parts! I just put new brakes and rotors, and tires... then the timing belt tensioner dies! If I can get the timing belt kit installed, all timed up and fix the AC... I'll be happy. |
To help those that follow, I finally got the crankshaft pulley/harmonic removed and the crankshaft center bolt does NOT need to be removed. This is how I did it. I sprayed the front and back of the crankshaft pulley with WD40. I soaked it! The next day, I used the serpentine belt to loop around the crankshaft pulley and I seriously yanked on the pulley. It didn't move. I repositioned the belt to pull force in a different direction (toward the front of the car this time), and it didn't move. I did this a few more times in different directions and it didn't move. I then used a 3' long crowbar against the back edge of the pulley and the pivot on one of the timing belt pulleys (that will be replaced) and the crankshaft pulley started to move! I was very gentle and used little effort with the 3' crowbar and the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer dropped off! Big Smile!
The crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer has a lip on the back side which overlaps the metal plate which the 6 bolts screw in to. It isn't "keyed", just pressed on so that when at TDC, the timing mark is approx. at 2 o clock. It is this junction on the back where the rust formed. So spraying the back side and each bolt hole with WD40 was helpful. I used the WD40 long straw and pointed it behind the pulley while spraying. You can see the rust on the pictures below. Notice the position of the crank. I pried at about 2 o clock and in that direction the pulley could pivot. It was the only direction the pulley could have moved to start coming off. I got lucky! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...3efaba12a4.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...16bca9aab0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...94918770fb.jpg I would like to thank Saturn Forum for helping. Knowing the crankshaft center bolt does NOT need to be removed was key and gave me the confidence and ability to get this beotch pulley off! |
There was an issue early in the 2000s on L series for prematue timing belt failures. I don't remember the years nor whether it was for the 2.2s or both 2.2 and V6.
Also, if your tensioner let loose, how many valves were mangled? |
Cam 1 is retarded by one tooth. There are metal filings coming out of the belt tensioner. The belt didn't break. I don't know if any values were damaged. The engine ran, but poorly. I am moving forward to install a timing belt kit and see what happens. I'll post a follow up. Wish me luck! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...9eaa30dc84.jpg
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Line everything up and check compression. Good luck, if the compression is good don’t forget to replace the water pump. |
Moved to L Sedan section
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It's Working as Luke Skywalker would say
I finally got the timing belt installed and the hood closed! It started right up and if there is any value damage it sure doesn't run like it. Smooth and Fast. A couple take aways, the crankshaft pulley was a real bear to take off, it was rusted on. I had to spray it down with WD40, let it sit for a night, then gentle pry bar action worked. If the crank is set to 10 o clock before TDC, you can gently pry on it at approx. 2 o clock location onf the harmonic balancer. There are two flat spots that allow the crank pulley to break free. Also, don't try to do this job with the freaking plastic wiring harness in your way. Disconnect the AC wire and get that mess out of your way. I jacked the engine up just a bit and that helped too. Lastly, when you set 3 and 4 cams and torque the lower pulley... lock the 3 and 4 pulleys BEFORE adjusting 1 and 2 cams. As I found out if you don't do this step... the belt will alter timing and the next 2 fully turns of the crank will result in repeating the procedure. Everything appears to be working, but the timing belt is noisy. I'm not sure if I have a rub, too tight, I screwed up something or it's just the belt. I'm going to run it a bit and then take another look inside to be sure everything is still set properly. This was my first time changing a timing belt and I must admit... it took me 4 tries to get it right. The third attempt resulted in everything letting loose and I had to re-time everything! I was worried I might even had gotten the crank 180 out of phase. Luckily, that didn't happen. I did break off a water pump bolt using my new cheap crappy torque wrench! Best to buy good tools even if it's a one shot deal. I took a few pictures I'll try to post later. Our Saturn LS2 sat outside in the winter, had 7' of snow on it, rusted the brakes badly, rain on me constantly while working between storms... but, I got it done. Looking back... it's not difficult yet doing it for the first time was a boetch! Thanks to everyone here that helped! This is a great resource! - Rj Beyond Harvest Veganistas a fb group... ps. One more thing. I created a White House Petition to End Chem Trails. I'm sure you guys know exactly what I'm talking about. I need 100,000 signatures before the WH will take up the issue. Check it out, please sign and share! The chemical warfare being sprayed on us is pure evil and it must end! https://petitions.whitehouse.gov/petition/end-geoengineering-ie-chem-trails-24-hours-executive-order I hope it is okay to post this here. It is really important to all Americans! - Thanks
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If the belt tensioner is spring loaded it may just be the new belt making noise. Glad to hear that you got it back together. |
Finished Look at the Timing Belt After Repair
Notice the Upper and Lower pulleys are not at 10 and 11 O Clock as stated in the manual. This is because these are only starting positions to set the timing. All timing marks are spot ON and the belt tensioner mark is at the top of the range. I didn't have any thread lock for the belt tensioner bolt, but it didn't move easily. I hope it's okay.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...5c02137bd9.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...0d9b8f30a5.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...f7ce246bbe.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...cc6082c035.jpg Next up... AC Clutch Coil replacement or repair. Then, frame rust and possibly coil overs. My wife loves this car and I hope to keep it running for her for several more years. Thanks everyone! Rj ps... Please take a look at my White House Petition to end Chem Trails. Here is a link https://petitions.whitehouse.gov/pet...xecutive-order |
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