01 sl1 gas gauge and A/C
#2
05-24-2017, 09:13 PM
A/C:
There is a refrigerant leak in the system or the compressor is no longer compressing. Or both. The only way to (begin to) sort it out is with measurements of the HI and LOW side pressures on the AC system. The low pressure cutout switch triggers somewhere in the 20's; when it trips, the clutch is inhibited to protect the compressor against damage.
If the clutch is engaging, your pressure must not be quite that low, or someone jumped the switch. When did the system start to not blow cold air, and how long did it take to get to its current condition?
You can get the LOW side reading (approx) by purchasing an R134a recharge can. However, you cannot determine the performance of the overall system/compressor with out knowing the HI side pressure.
Other forum folk may know if you can do a loan a tool on a set of AC gauges from local auto parts chain stores.
Also, do not be surprised if one or both of the schrader valves (HI and LOW side) refuse to reseat properly/reseal after removing the gauges or a can of refrigerant. They have sat sealed for 16 years if you have never had work done on the system. A special tool is needed to remove the core of the schrader valve and replace it. When you get to the leak detection stage, add one can of refrigerant containing dye. Wear gloves and do not let it get where you don't want it--it stains most everything including skin.
Fuel Gauge:
1) Gauge cluster electronics issue
2) Float inside tank now has a hole in it and therefore is not a float but instead an anchor
3) Fuel level sender is defective
4) Wiring issue betw fuel level sender and gauge
2 requires you to drop the tank to check -- leave for last.
3 MIGHT be investigated without dropping the tank --- dunno, never tried
4 you can do
------------------------
Get a hold of schematics to see if you can determine what V the gauge SHOULD be seeing vs what V it IS seeing
There is a refrigerant leak in the system or the compressor is no longer compressing. Or both. The only way to (begin to) sort it out is with measurements of the HI and LOW side pressures on the AC system. The low pressure cutout switch triggers somewhere in the 20's; when it trips, the clutch is inhibited to protect the compressor against damage.
If the clutch is engaging, your pressure must not be quite that low, or someone jumped the switch. When did the system start to not blow cold air, and how long did it take to get to its current condition?
You can get the LOW side reading (approx) by purchasing an R134a recharge can. However, you cannot determine the performance of the overall system/compressor with out knowing the HI side pressure.
Other forum folk may know if you can do a loan a tool on a set of AC gauges from local auto parts chain stores.
Also, do not be surprised if one or both of the schrader valves (HI and LOW side) refuse to reseat properly/reseal after removing the gauges or a can of refrigerant. They have sat sealed for 16 years if you have never had work done on the system. A special tool is needed to remove the core of the schrader valve and replace it. When you get to the leak detection stage, add one can of refrigerant containing dye. Wear gloves and do not let it get where you don't want it--it stains most everything including skin.
Fuel Gauge:
1) Gauge cluster electronics issue
2) Float inside tank now has a hole in it and therefore is not a float but instead an anchor
3) Fuel level sender is defective
4) Wiring issue betw fuel level sender and gauge
2 requires you to drop the tank to check -- leave for last.
3 MIGHT be investigated without dropping the tank --- dunno, never tried
4 you can do
------------------------
Get a hold of schematics to see if you can determine what V the gauge SHOULD be seeing vs what V it IS seeing
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