I never said I out in 16 quarts. Maybe the way I typed something confused. I only put a total of two gallons (approximately 8 qts) in the empty/drained transmission.

 

Nope.

Clueless moment on my part. For some reason I thought there were four quarts in a half gallon. But only right after work. It all makes sense now.

Apologies for barking at you and apologies for being a moron.

 

No,man. Do NOT keep adding fluid to it. If you have more than 8 quarts in there, I'm pretty sure it's too much. I don't know which transmission is in your car, but if it's anything like the crappy TAAT4 they used in the earlier models, you would be better off running it a little low than over filled. The best thing to do is try to find out the full capacity from a dry fill MINUS the torque converter because you can't drain it. Then, add that much fluid to it. I'm pretty sure that you'll find it's around the 7 quarts that Andy said to start with. I'm thinking you should probably be seeking another transmission or a REPUTABLE shop that can rebuild that one for you.

 

Ok, thanks. I totally forgot to mention some other history about the car. Long story, but to cut it short, I only drained/replaced the fluid because one of the seals was leaking. I'm not sure how much, but that's likely why it started hard shifting. Sometimes, it would take forever to shift past first and second gear. Horrible burnt fluid smell in the cabin and outside of the car after driving for a while.

I replaced the seal months ago, but, as you know, I screwed up when attempting to drain and replace the fluid using that damn wrong bolt. I added the 8 qts the other day, and I can say I drives much better. At first, I would have barely any power taking off at stop signs/lights. It would accelerate slow. Cars would always go around me lol. Once I passed a few gears, it would drive better/normal. Now, after the 8 qts I just added, it takes off like normal! So happy about that. 😄 The only thing now is it jerks pretty hard when going from park to reverse and from reverse to drive/vice versa. Also, jerking from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd.

Another thing I'll mention is that at one point, the timing chain snapped while parked. Fast forward, replaced the head and got it back running. Sat a year or two before I could tho. Once I got it back running, it would vibrate most of the time and had a loss of power when taking off, especially in reverse. I thought it was something I did replacing the head or something electrical since there were codes. Eventually, maybe a year or so later, I was working on something and realized one of the motor mounts was worn. Maybe it got as bad as it was from sitting? Didn't vibrate before the chain snapped. I decided to purchase all the mounts (1 motor 3 trans) and replaced the motor mount first and holy ****! No more vibration. I was amazed at the difference one mount made. This single mount also got rid of an issue where whenever I turned the steering wheel left, no matter how much, sometimes the engine would rev up super high. I thought it was the transmission slipping at first.

All that to say, the jerking might be the transmission mounts. There's no vibration like before the motor mount replacement, but maybe that's the issue. Back when I replaced the motor mount, I inspected the 3 trans mounts, but they didn't seem bad at all. I did change one of the 3 since it's was the easiest to get to. Made no difference, but initially, I wasn't going to bother for two reasons. One is that the 4 mount kit came with the motor mount being made in Taiwan, and the 3 trans mounts were made in China. The other reason is they all were Anchor branded, and I've heard mounts are one part you should get OEM. I'll still install the other two but may swap the OEM ones back in if there's no change. Will do this before adding more fluid, of courseafter draining to check how much comes out. Will update soon.

Thanks again, and sorry for the novel. lol

 

I bet you 3 wooden #1 pencils and a peacock's winter feather that your timing chain broke as you tried to start it. They usually don't just fall apart sitting still, especially with no one watching.

Or was it a timing belt? I don't know which one your vehicle has. I'd look it up, but I don't feel like it

 

I'm out of the picture on this one. Thanks

 

Why would you willingly lose a bet? I was literally sitting parked on a cold start, warming it up like I usually did. I knew the timing chain was bad and getting worse. My mechanic, at the time, told me to take care of it because he heard it on a cold start after the car sat at his shop while he replaced the a-b solenoid. That morning, while I was warming it up, I literally said to myself "wow that's bad. I need to go ahead and get this diagnosed" then SNAP! It's my own fault. And yes, it's a timing chain. I say it with my own eyes when replacing the head and valves. Also purchased the replacement

 

You just said the vehicle was running when the chain broke. You were idling.

Above you indicated
"Another thing I'll mention is that at one point, the timing chain snapped while parked.

Parked traditionally refers to what you do with your car in a lot and involves getting out of a non-running vehicle, closing the door, and walking away.

If you wish to claim that idling is parking, I can't stop you. However, the information you provided was insufficiently detailed with respect to the full situation at hand.

 

Just an update. After putting the 8 quarts in, I decided not to drill a whole for checking. I guess the jerking was just the transmission adjusting? Maybe a computer thing? Because I have driven it multiple times (for like 4-5 hours straight) and the transmission has been smooth. The transmission codes, whatever they were (can't remember), have disappeared. No more burnt smell and no more shifting or loss of power at take off!

There was an issue of bad stuttering after warming it up and driving for a short period l, leading me to thinking there was a vacuum leak somewhere. This would happen at stopping points like stop lights/signs. I went to remove the box that holds the filter to inspect the attached hose for cracks and found a dirty wipe or something under the filter in the box. Not sure where it came from but it must've been causing the stuttering, probably messing up the air flow/fuel mixture. I removed it and cleaned the box of debris then took it for a drive and no more stuttering!

I cleared all DTCs and and took it for a drive and I gotta say, this thing runs supper smooth, maybe even better than before the timing chain snapped. Well, of course, since the chain rattled and needed replaced. No more having to smash the gas to barley accelerate. Takes of from stops like normal. Gonna take it on a few more long drives to make sure the trouble codes don't come back. Only code that's there now is an airbag code for the passenger side. Dash also shows "passenger airbag off". Code b0092. Not sure what that's about.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Glad your vehicle is running better.

In the future, please try to include ALL pertinent info in the first post. We all forget small details and add them as soon as possible. But you are still adding detail in your long term follow-up post.

We all like to help each other, but that becomes very very difficult with only part of the information.