This is for derf, I also forgot to mention when my husband got my car started by wiggling the wires under the hood I drove to a drive thru and on my way there it seemed to lose power as I was driving and I would let off the gas a bit and then give it gas again and it seemed ok. Also as I was going through the drive thru it stalled twice !!! I was so relieved it started again in the drive thru. I came straight home and since then my husband has tried to get it started.

 

I would say for at least a year after I shut off my car, most of the time this would happen. It honestly sounds like someone is knocking a couple of times on my back window and then stops. I don't know what if that has anything to do with why it won't start now?
Thanks

 

 

Nothing at all not even a clicking sound. And the passlock light goes off it doesn't stay on. My radio works power windows and lights work as well.

 

Maybe a hanger that supports your exhaust system is broken, allowing part of the exhaust system to slap off the underside of the car.

Some the time, you will also hear this when you start the car, but not always. Every model of car is different with regards to the routing and configuration of the exhaust system.

Have someone stand by the tailpipe when you shut the car off (after we solve the starting issue. You can also wiggle the exhaust pipe when cold and see if there is excessive play. Put on gloves as your hands will get sooty. I wrecked a pair of white sneakers many years ago.

This is a GUESS. The feul pump is electric so it shouldn't produce such clanging in theory.

 

Thank you, I will check that with tailpipe. Do you have any ideas about what we could try to fix my starting problem ? Please and thank you. 😊

 

HEAVILY REVISED AND REPOSTED


You can pick up a Haynes / Chilton repair book specific to the Ions at Autozone or similar.

WAS the check engine/service engine soon or service light on when you were driving around and went through the drive through? I ask because the car's computer may have stored diagnostic codes related to what's wrong / what was making it drive weird and stall.

The fact that you blew a fuse that has anything to do with the battery tells us this is likely electrical in nature (big revelation).
After you replaced the fuse did it blow again? Is it blown right now? I'm confused because I looked up a picture of an 05 ION fuse box with the relay and fuse layout and I did not see any fuse labeled JUST BATT. There are IP BATT fuses for the instrument panel Fuse box runs but they are square and pink, not red.

2005 Saturn Ion Fuse Box Diagram

Ignore the yellow 26.

The only Red 10A fuse i would think COULD be in play here is the #11 IGN fuse (Ignition).

.

Principle of Operation (I THINK)
1) The ECM must get positive confirmation that the car is in park or neutral (PNP switch) or that the car is in neutral (neutral safety start switch is closed).

2) I know that a Passlock II car with security triggered will start and stall. The key point being the starter can be cranked. So I do not think the BCM need send any signal to the ECU to allow the starter to crank. BUT I MAY BE WRONG.

3) The ECM should then ground Pin 66 on Connector C2, which has a yellow wire running to Relay 31 pin 86, PCM CONT (PCM CONTROL??) . Pin 86 should be at ground. Voltage to energize pin 85 apparently comes from the ECM.

Once energized, Relay 31 closes and pins 30 and 87 are connected. This allows current to travel on a purple wire out of the underhood fuse box to the starter. This current energizes several coil windings, which in turn closes the connection between the starter and battery voltage. The starter gear moves into position and the battery current to the starter motor spins the .starter

Other things that must be good for all of this to work:

a) there must be battery voltage at the starter. This is usually fed straight from the underhood junction (fuse) box or has the alternator hanging off the same cable.
b) Crank fuse #46 must be intact
c) Crank fuse 38 must be intact
d) Run/Crank Relay 28 must function correctly.
e) IGN fuse 11 must be intact
f) Pin 87 (U6?) on relay 31 should read at 12V relative to engine ground)
g) With the key held in the crank position: Pin 85 (U8?) should read 12V relative to engine ground AND Pin 86 (V6 ??) Should read as ground.

The following conclusions, drawn by someone other than me, state:
1) If fuse 11 is hot on both sides but no power to the relay then you have a faulty PNP switch on the transaxle.
2) If pin V6 on relay 31 does not show ground(stays at 12v when the key is put into the start position), no ground there can mean a faulty ECM or a theft deterrent system activated.

2) implies that the ECM can be told by the BCM presumably not to ground the ECM pin that energizes the PCM CONT relay -- without which the starter cannot be energized. Maybe there are multiple levels of security logic.
-----------------------------------------
So your husband wiggling the ECM may have dislodged corrosion built up on the pins and sockets and re enabled the signal to relay 31 that allowed the starter to energize, but some may remain.

If you decide to remove the ECM to inspect and clean, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY to avoid damage to the ECM. Do not bend pins, use only electrical contact cleaner, do not cross pins with anything conductive and do not create or discharge a bunch of static or you may have a paperweight.

Good night. (Good morning?)

-------
Wiring diagram and explanation reference:

https://www.justanswer.com/saturn/36...tery-good.html

2004, close enough -- see if YOU can find a 2005

 

Any updates?