I thank you for your help! Part is ordered. Now just to wait for it to arrive. And here is hoping that solves this issue!

While im waiting for the new part.. I do have a few other questions. Figure i can try asking them here instead of making a new thread on it.

1. My starting question in the OP. Does anyone know the type, size, length of the bolt in those pics that is used to hold in the fuel filter bracket? Considering its rusted and possibly the head stripped/rounded, i figure its a good idea to replace the bolt. Cant do that unless i know its size. And i wouldnt be surprised if i have to get a shop to break it out. Not sure if that bolt is something they carry normally. And im assuming that driving with the fuel filter not secured would be a bad idea.

2. Should i install this fuel filter anyway (even if it wasnt the cause of this issue)? Since i already have the part.
After typing that question i looked up the info. The last record i have of a fuel filter replacement was nov 2021. So its been 3 years. And mile wise its only been 9375 miles. Checked the owners manual which says 'replace engine fuel filter' every 100,000 miles (no time range mentioned.) So im guessing i dont rly need to replace it. I can see if autozone will accept a return. (Assuming the hose fixes my problem). So i guess i answered that one lol

3. When i took the car into the shop, part of the diagnostic report mentioned a recommendation to replace the radiator hoses based on the time interval. I guess after finding a hole in the vacuum hose, im looking at that more carefully now. How many types of hoses are in there that should be replaced now and then? (im at 135k miles.) And since im replacing the one vacuum hose going from the evap purge solenoid to the front of the car, should i replace the one going out the other direction? Or are these better left alone until there is an issue?

 

The vacuum line you're replacing, as shown in your picture, doesn't show a 'normal' wear and tear failure. My 2003 Ion has 165K and that line is very serviceable. It's plastic rather than rubber, and is not subject to deterioration like rubber is. I would visually check the line going from the purge solenoid back, eventually to the vapor canister, but wouldn't be concerned about replacing it unless you see some damage.
As far as your coolant hoses, if the rubber is firm and shows no evidence of oil soaking or other damage, you're probably okay. If they get very soft, or you notice that they swell when the coolant system is hot and pressurized, then they should probably be replaced, or they may rupture due to being deteriorated/weakened.

 

When you soak that fuel filter bracket bolt, be sure to spray inside the frame rail via that big hole to the right. Use the little red spray guide tube to direct the blaster onto where the rusted bolt and frame meet. That is more than likely where the rust is welding it together so to speak. Just keep some towels underneath the whole area because it will become a mess.

 

Is this your bolt?


​​​​​​Difficult to tell from the perspective of the picture.



It may be additionally more difficult because there may be a captive nut welded to the frame for the bolt to thread into. But don't give up

 

See if you can get a pair of GOOD vise grips on it and break it loose. That's what I'd do with it, if it were mine. And there's no way I'd pay that much for a single bolt. I'd take the old one out and go to a local hardware store and ask them to match it for me. Or even an auto parts store. I don't think there's anything special about any bolt that holds a fuel filter bracket in place.

 

Rube, it's rusted in place. I'm thinking vice grips is how it got rounded off. The bolt picture I posted came up on a search for said part.

I don't believe he has the tools to remove this on his own. I agree it is probably not a special special bolt but without knowing the thread pitch etc, he can't really go out and buy a replacement. Yet.

 

Half of that price is the included freight. Freight is not free. It probably has a blind nut that will break and spin. Be prepared for a minor struggle, you will prevail.

 

Thats actually what i was doing. I wasnt sure if it was the smartest thing, but i thought the same thing you mentioned.



Same answer as you gave lol Difficult to tell. It looks similar at least. Hex head with that washer under it. As for its length or thread type, i couldnt say right now.

Basically, yea. There is not a lot of room at that spot where the bolt is. A regular pair of vice grips wouldnt fit well. - It actually got rounded off (it looks that way) with a regular hex socket. It was rusted that much in that the even the socket started skipping before it would break the seal. (before trying pr blaster for rust.)
Im not sure i have anything to actually get it out of there (if the pb doesnt work). The last thing i need is to break the head off and have the threads stuck in there. I had that happen to a couple cage pieces. Animals peed on the bolt a lot and it basically rusted it in place. The head of the screw broke of clean/flush before the threads would start turning. My attempts to get the thread parts out all failed. The cage pieces sat around for several years before i found a random person that was able to get them out. I certainly dont need anything like that happening to my car. Im also guessing that if i take the bolt out or it broke off.. driving around without the fuel filter secure wouldnt be the best idea. So if pb blaster doesnt work, i may jsut let the shop do it next time i go in for something. (Assuming the hose i ordered is the issue and not the fuel filter. Which seems probable.)

 

I just went out and checked everything i could see. All of it seemed to be in good shape. Only one line looked like it had worn some. But it was still in good shape considering.

This was the vacuum hose going out the back side. It seemed in good condition. I couldnt feel any holes or nicks. - I did have a question on it tho. Just out of curiosity. The vacuum hose in the front, which were the pictures a few posts above with the hole, has a pretty solid plastic type hose the whole length. - This vacuum hose in the back was the same material, but it had a mesh type cover on it. It was movable as you could push it around as well. And more odd, it only went half the length of the hose. Then it was back to the black plastic line again. .. whats up with that?






This was the only hose that looked like it had any wear over time (that i saw at least.) Still in good shape, no nicks or holes or anything that i could tell. But if a hose were to have an issue over time, that would be my guess on which one.
Im not sure what type of hose that is. Or why its bent into that type of shape. Does it need to be like that? Or did it just harden into that position over time from being a little bit longer then the distance needed?





All the hoses that i could see, seemed fine. Aside from the one with the hole of course. - The only thing that looked beat up over time are the thin plastic coats over most of the wires.

 

The small diameter hose you outlined in green is a hose to allow excess coolant (when the coolant heats up) to escape into the coolant recovery tank. If you follow the metal line it is connected to you will see it is routed to a fitting in the water jacket right next to where the top radiator hose connects. It is molded into that shape to permit access to other components under the hood. Over time is has been mis-shaped a little by heat and being moved a little while working under the hood.