2 10mm bolts for the fuel rail, and I think 2 t25s for the fuel rail cover.
Oh, and a coolant line runs between. *Think* it was a 13/14mm.

 

Okay...so I have an odd question... The car runs fine, but I discovered during a necessary extended high speed run that my boost levels are increasing... This was in an optimum(based on experience) 75 degree/moderate humidity setting... I remember that shortly after getting tuned, I would just break 17psi, then 17.5... Last night, in 3rd gear at 6800 RPM, I noticed boost as 17.98psi.. What on earth would cause boost pressure to rise? The blower pulley isn't shrinking, and the crank pulley isn't growing... Exhaust restriction maybe?

 

I take it you still have the bypass relief valve closed all the time?

Do you know how your ultragage is calibrated? Meaning did come calibrated between 0 and 15 psi (example) or 0-30, 0-45, etc.

My point is that if you're using outside of its calibrated range, the numbers you get may not be correct.

Also there is bound to be a margin of uncertainty on any measurement. What is that value for the ultragage?

Both pieces of information should be with the documentation you received when you purchased it, or on their website.

In my mind it's best to check out the measuring device first to ensure the reading is valid before you start worrying about what's changed under the hood

 

Air is cooler at night, boost loves cold air.

 

I should clarify that I am comparing boost pressures at similar IAT1 readings... It usually does best at around 70-75 degrees ambient temp...

 

New issue, again... The car is really running poorly, much reminding me of the final months in my old Ranger(that was carbureted and broken and running massively too rich)... When it's warm(engine temp above 160) it drives okay out on the road, but bucks a little in town(it didn't do that before recently)... It also will bog at gear changes unless either: you drive extremely gently, OR you're going at 100% throttle and shifting near the rev limit(between 6700 and 7100 RPM)... The bogging is worse when the engine is cold, and will do so almost to the point of misfire until the revs climb into its powerband and some boost pressure is made... Based on my previous experiences, I might have a broken/stuck injector, in addition to the o-ring issue that I'm sure I have...Honestly, I'm getting sick of needing to fix something on this car every month or so...

 

So, a new issue has arisen with this car... The engine is dead... As fun as it was letting Derf take the fall for its demise, it died, in fact, by my own hand... I don't know how, or when on that day, but at some point, it lost most of its compression on cyl 1... No dramatic noise, no smoke, no stalling... I discovered the issue when I attempted an overtake on the freeway to find the car down on power, and not making the boost it should at the RPM I was turning... I pulled over and opened he hood to find the dipstick ejected and about a quart sprayed all over the engine bay... Idle was really rough, with vacuum greatly diminished and not constant... I topped off the oil and continued driving, pondering the cause of such dipstick popping, especially since I had a (admittedly weak) spring holding it down... On the way to the meet-up with Derf(that part really did happen), I found out we has running late, which freed up some time for diagnostic work... I got back off the freeway and stopped at a gas station, and promptly conducted a compression test, finding the problem... I re-connected my faulty boost solenoid(essentially making the car naturally aspirated) and completed the drive to the meet-up(since it was only 12 miles further)... Afterward, I drove the car the 75 miles back home, largely without issue other than the obvious stuff arising from one cylinder being down on compression...

The car is currently parked, awaiting its fate... Thankfully, I still have my Ranger to drive to work...

 

So, a further, "autopsy" if you will...

I'm recalling some info that is relevant the the death of this car... I noticed about two days before the engine failure, that my intercooler pump wiring had come disconnected(btw the CXRacing pump barely fits the stock mount, if I were rebuilding the car it would go back to stock)... I did fix it, but in time? Hard to tell... That, and it still had the vac/idle issue that probably was a faulty injector or o-ring(could have caused a lean condition), and more importantly, I was still running with the bypass valve disconnected... That means that even if the PCM detected an issue, it couldn't pull boost to save the engine, because it had no means to...

This means that a $50 part(the boost solenoid) could very well have cost me a $2k engine, and by extension, a $4k car... My leg isn't flexible enough for me to kick myself in the pants, anyone care to come do it for me?

 

No one is gonna kick you in the ***. Most production performance cars have multiplen built in safety systems to prevent such damage. Being that IAT 1 and IAT 2 indicate I'd the supercharger is cooling the air, it seems bizarre to me that such gauges are not bult into the freaking dash. I know everyone has their own desired config but you were still getting boost until very recently. If the boost solenoid is inoperative, there should be a warning light or a code thrown since whether you pull the vac line on purpose or the solenoid nis defective, you still need to know if it closed/ opened per pcm command, similar to how the egr is monitored.

Unfortunately, we all learn different lessons from our own mishaps. The important part is that we learn.

 

So the intercooler pump died, I would look for a burnt piston. Probably ruined that liner also.