HOPEFULLY I can see...
When its not raining

 

Fixed it for yuh.

 

Whoa.
They are different.


I have purple, green, black, black w/ white stripe, brown
brown w/ white stripe, orange

 

Do our common wire colors share common pin locations? If so, I can use it, by removing the brown wires...

I almost thought about using a S series or J-body connector(would likely also use the J1850 VPM protocol) but they likely wouldn't clip into the lower dash support like in the ION...

 

Goalie-- for which pin #s ??

CANbus only requires the 5 I listed; you listed 7 wire colors for 7 pins but didn't specify which wire colors were for which number pin....

bones/goalie -- i think one of you have accidentally swapped a green for purple positionwise. Can you both re-check?

There may in fact be other pins present and wired up, as it is possible that some individual components might not speak CANbus, and may need to use the J1850 protocol for diag procedures---so those pins may be there.

My statement was meant to imply that WITHOUT 1,2,4,5,16 present and wired, you cannot possibly have CANbus communications. If those pins ARE wired, then it is very very likely that the CANbus protocol is in use. It is my understanding that these pins are the ODB II standard for CANbus.

I severely doubt they would be wired up to somewhere if they weren't being used.

You can actually stop at autozone and have them read codes -- just watch from the very beginning as it will indicate what communications protocol it has negotiated with the vehicle.

 

My purple and green were intertwined on both. So I have to double check.

 

I'm 100% positive on my color/pin position... I typed the post while looking at my diagnostic port...

 

On a side note, my vacuum leak is getting worse, I think... Used to be, once warm, pressure would stabilize at around -9.xx PSI... Now, it doesn't matter if warm or cold, pressure jumps between -6.x and about -8.4 PSI... Car hunts for idle, usually between 800 and 1000 RPM...Driving, the car behaves well, but power is a little down (and response laggy)up to around 4000 RPM, then it runs about like normal... Funny thing is, boost seems normal, if not higher than before doing the bypass mod...

 

That is really odd.

 

So, I made some visual progress with my Redline today, using PlastiDip... It's a great product that can peel off easily if I want to, yet it's durable enough to last, if applied properly...


I tinted my tail lights... Not my first pair, and I haven't had trouble from law enforcement the entire time my truck has been done

and I sprayed over my already dipped marker lights and glossed them... They look way better now...

...and I did something cool with my radio bezel, I dipped it black, but masked off a part of the original silver, and used a sharpie to add a red line to the edge of the stripe...

... And here's a better shot of the radio bezel... The red line is hard to see in pictures, but it really pops in person...

...and for the purpose of information, the marker lights got a heavy coat of black(over the previously applied dip) and one good coat of glossifier... The radio bezel got three coats of black(first coat light, second medium, and the third almost runny) and three medium-heavy coats of glossifier(with the red sharpie sealed in between two coats), and the taillight got two light coats of black and four heavy coats of glossifier...