thanks for the info.

So are there any s/c cars anywhere in the GM stable?

 

besides the redlines/cobalt ss/sc, nope. Were it.


LSJ is the best block in the boosted ecotec lineup so far though.
Why did they change it? Who knows.


It has been proven that a 350whp LSJ will out run a 450whp LNF anyday.

 

Actually, there was another supercharged GM product... It was the L67 V6, a 3.8 liter OHV engine using an Eaton M90 blower... It might have shared a stable with the early LSJ cars, maybe in a Monte SS, or Grand Prix GTP, maybe some sort of Buick?

A 350whp LSJ being faster than a 450whp LNF? You sure that's not a typo?

 

Positive. Look into it.
the lsj is the overall better motor.

 

I read somewhere (maybe car and driver) our motor has similar strength to a Chevy small block.

 

Pontiac Bonneville SSEI I believe.

 

The SSEI was another example of the L67 V6... Actually lots of those found their way into Buicks... I think almost every offering could be optioned with one, up to 2004 or so...

 

So, I got my dipstick hold-down spring installed(need to make a hook, but happy for now)... Did a 45-110 pull with no oil lost... Don't get me wrong, I need to vent the pressure, but for now, I'm happy...

And I got my A/C charged... I have a slight leak by the valve stem, as evidenced by the green-ish stain, but she works for now!

Now, I need to get on that gasket leak and maybe fix the boost solenoid(been driving around with bypass mod for now), and then... Umm... CASE learn, lol...

Still haven't done it yet... Getting 21mpg with aggressive driving and 24mpg with half-gentle driving... No data with A/C yet though...

And just a thought, but is there any way to repair the diagnostic port? My UltraGauge is constantly losing connection(most of the reason I haven't bothered calibrating it), and the loose port would make doing a CASE learn most difficult, of not impossible/risky...

 

More updates- the little block panels I made from floor mats keep falling out, so I removed them... Now, I'm back to cutting out in the rain... I got some pieces of black corrugated plastic, and plan to trace the block panels,and re-create them from corrugated plastic, which is stiffer and should be more durable an the rubber was... Actually my main issue we the floor mats is that I neglected to trim the little nubs off the back, and I couldn't get tape to stick for any reasonable length of time...

And seriously though, anybody know how to replace/repair a diagnostic port? I've seen broken ones re-pinned, but I dont think this applies to my situation...

 

Check lighter fuse. It powers the OBDII diag port.

As far as I can tell, GM started using the CANbus PROTOCOL in place of the J1850 PROTOCOL in 2003 for the Ions, so your OBDII port should be wired as such, with a minimum of pins 4,5,6,14, and 16

4= chassis ground
5= signal ground
6= CAN High
14=CAN Low
16=+12V

(See attached pic for OBDII Pinout)

After checking fuse, probe V from pin 16 to 4 on front of connector.
---If 12V present, any 12V code reader should power up. Whether it can communicate w the car depends on when you bought the code reader (does it have the CANbus protocols stored in memory). If not, you need a newer code reader that speaks "CANbus".

--if 12V not present on the front of he connector when checking V across pins 16 to 4, probe the wires from the back of the connector to see if it is a corrosion related problem