19bonestock88's 04 Redline BUILD:finishing somebody else's project...
#221
06-04-2015, 04:43 PM
I guess since the compression testing didn't include a squirt of oil and a recheck, the integrity/wear of the rings was not verified. D'OH! Guess it should be repeated w vehicle at op temp and a squirt of oil for good measure.
Not clear on why milkiness would indicate ring/piston issue -- please elaborate sir.
Compression readings to date seem even and pretty high. I would have a hard time believing there is a ring issue. It's at 160K --- of course the rings are somewhat worn. For reference, an s car owner would die to have that level of compression at 100K let alone 160K.
Sticks and stones will break your Bones, if names do in fact hurt me.
Not clear on why milkiness would indicate ring/piston issue -- please elaborate sir.
Compression readings to date seem even and pretty high. I would have a hard time believing there is a ring issue. It's at 160K --- of course the rings are somewhat worn. For reference, an s car owner would die to have that level of compression at 100K let alone 160K.
Sticks and stones will break your Bones, if names do in fact hurt me.
Last edited by derf; 06-05-2015 at 12:40 PM.
#222
06-05-2015, 02:39 AM
I cant remember what the reasoning is at the moment. That was my quick google search last night on the issue.
I don't think its a piston issue, either. I really think its a pcv issue. Check into a breather cap, as well.
I don't think its a piston issue, either. I really think its a pcv issue. Check into a breather cap, as well.
#223
06-05-2015, 07:47 AM
Still not sure about the dipstick, but a blown IM gasket would cause the low to no boost issue.
Check the pcv hoses to see if theyre clogged. PCVs are also extremely common to go out on these cars.
2 ways to check to see if its a bad pcv after checking for clog.
1. Bypass valve mod
2. Plug the back hose
Check the bottom of your oil cap for me.
Just read it could also be the boost solenoid.
Check the pcv hoses to see if theyre clogged. PCVs are also extremely common to go out on these cars.
2 ways to check to see if its a bad pcv after checking for clog.
1. Bypass valve mod
2. Plug the back hose
Check the bottom of your oil cap for me.
Just read it could also be the boost solenoid.
And no my oil cap wasn't milky, so I think I'm safe for now...
What will happen if I plug the PCV hose? And what is the bypass mod?
Originally Posted by derf
I indicated that without boost the crankcase should not be building up pressure sufficient to blow out the stick -- all other things functioning properly. If the PCV is clogged, then there is no means of relieving the pressure within the system.
Also, from the VERY limited reading I did,
Answering your questions about By-Pass Valves. : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
it is suggested that installing a bypass valve is mandatory for relief of pressurized air if you are running above 7psi to avoid the supercharger trying REALLY hard to jam air into the engine during the moments it's not able to take it in (when all intake valves are closed e.g.).
The bypass mod doesn't sound like a mod to me, it sounds like a requirement if you're gonna run at 7psi or higher boost.
That being said, overpressurizing IM gasket from lack of intake pressure release could be at work here...
Also, from the VERY limited reading I did,
Answering your questions about By-Pass Valves. : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
it is suggested that installing a bypass valve is mandatory for relief of pressurized air if you are running above 7psi to avoid the supercharger trying REALLY hard to jam air into the engine during the moments it's not able to take it in (when all intake valves are closed e.g.).
The bypass mod doesn't sound like a mod to me, it sounds like a requirement if you're gonna run at 7psi or higher boost.
That being said, overpressurizing IM gasket from lack of intake pressure release could be at work here...
Yes, pull the hose off the back of the pcv, and plug it with a golf tee or something.
Check to see if under the oil cap looks milky, that would be a bad ring/piston.
Bypass "mod" is not a must. I don't have it done. I just have a messed up throttle body.
You might just need an oil cap breather if it isn't the pcv. A lot of people have done that, and it worked. But again, check the pcv. Its free to check.
Derf, youre going to end up selling your s cars for an ion soon. I see it coming.
Don't make me start calling you grandpa!
Check to see if under the oil cap looks milky, that would be a bad ring/piston.
Bypass "mod" is not a must. I don't have it done. I just have a messed up throttle body.
You might just need an oil cap breather if it isn't the pcv. A lot of people have done that, and it worked. But again, check the pcv. Its free to check.
Derf, youre going to end up selling your s cars for an ion soon. I see it coming.
Don't make me start calling you grandpa!
And by all means,derf, feel free to get yourself into an ION, even if it's an L61 car... They are pretty good... I still fondly remember driving my moms old car, and it was super reliable, despite her total lack of maintenance the best part is that since Saturn went away in 09, ION resale values have plummeted like a rock from a plane... $4k will net you a pretty decent ION, maybe even with the LE5...
Last edited by 19bonestock88; 06-05-2015 at 11:07 PM.
#224
06-05-2015, 11:12 PM
So, based on the theory of the boost solenoid acting up, I'm gonna try the bypass mod tomorrow and see what happens... This issue has been plaguing the car almost since it got the ZZP tune... It started as a loss of boost if you held it WOT to 7k in 3rd, or went much over 110 in 4th while WOT, and it took a while to correct itself (and it still made 8-10psi), and now, it makes maybe 4psi... I don't know, it's slow enough I just keep it under 60 and struggle with the hills due to not having boost... Now, I have to downshift, to as low as 3rd, on some hills...
#225
06-05-2015, 11:52 PM
Indeed these cars do come stock w/ a bypass valve installed.
I incorrectly referenced the bypass valve as the bypass mod. My bad. Need to go self-educate about what the bypass mod actually is.....
_______________
For reference on how the Boost Control System is designed on these engines, including the function of the Boost Control Solenoid and the bypass valve (for those interested):
lets dwelve into the boost solenoid - Page 2 - Saturn ION RedLine Forums post #20
I incorrectly referenced the bypass valve as the bypass mod. My bad. Need to go self-educate about what the bypass mod actually is.....
_______________
For reference on how the Boost Control System is designed on these engines, including the function of the Boost Control Solenoid and the bypass valve (for those interested):
lets dwelve into the boost solenoid - Page 2 - Saturn ION RedLine Forums post #20
#226
06-06-2015, 12:14 AM
Fun thread with Redline dudes dancing in circles while discussing the bypass mod
How To: Boost Bypass Mod - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
The version where the plate can still open with your foot off the gas is my choice
How To: Boost Bypass Mod - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
The version where the plate can still open with your foot off the gas is my choice
#228
06-06-2015, 01:03 PM
So, I took off the vac line going from the solenoid to the bypass actuator... I tried plugging it with an ink pen, but that created a positive pressure in the line, and caused a no-boost condition... So, I just left the line open to atmosphere , and I now have full boost... But, leaving the line disconnected defeats the 1st gear boost limit, and the torque abuse feature that keeps me from chirping the tires going into 2nd and 3rd gear... Basically, in stock form, it bleeds boost off as you change gears, and now it doesn't... But, I know what's wrong now...
#230
06-07-2015, 01:45 AM
The guy in NY bought his IRL for its engine; I doubt he will want to take stuff off the engine...
I'll just buy a new one from GM... A website has the solenoid for $47.xx plus shipping, which isn't too bad...
I'm not fretting too badly about fixing it though... The car is easier on fuel with the boost cut down to nearly nothing(no surprise really), and right now, I can go from Dr. Jekyll to Mr. Hyde with just the 5 second manipulation of a hose... Don't get me wrong, I do plan on fixing the problem...
I'll just buy a new one from GM... A website has the solenoid for $47.xx plus shipping, which isn't too bad...
I'm not fretting too badly about fixing it though... The car is easier on fuel with the boost cut down to nearly nothing(no surprise really), and right now, I can go from Dr. Jekyll to Mr. Hyde with just the 5 second manipulation of a hose... Don't get me wrong, I do plan on fixing the problem...