03 ion manual trans base trim crank no start
im at my wits end at this point, recently replaced clutch plate flywheel an slave. drove it for a cpl months then all just stopped. first it stalled on me at work finally was able to jump it an get it home.
next morning it just cranked an cranked. sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle and it acted like it wanted to start. i was told check fuel injectors so i removed them an cleaned them up an made sure i was getting gd flow. put the car back together an it started right up.
drove around the block an my check engine light was blinking an it was acting like it was misfiring so again i parked it.
next day same story cranks but wont start not even with starting fluid. spark plugs are getting fuel. there is no codes an the security light isnt blinking or on. ive changed the ignition control module an nothing. timing change isnt broke or slacked so i wouldnt think it was timing related. changed my plugs an my boots also my coil pack. any suggestions. i love driving this car when it will drive
next morning it just cranked an cranked. sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle and it acted like it wanted to start. i was told check fuel injectors so i removed them an cleaned them up an made sure i was getting gd flow. put the car back together an it started right up.
drove around the block an my check engine light was blinking an it was acting like it was misfiring so again i parked it.
next day same story cranks but wont start not even with starting fluid. spark plugs are getting fuel. there is no codes an the security light isnt blinking or on. ive changed the ignition control module an nothing. timing change isnt broke or slacked so i wouldnt think it was timing related. changed my plugs an my boots also my coil pack. any suggestions. i love driving this car when it will drive
Intermittent problems are a bugger. You said spark plugs are getting fuel - I assume you meant that the plugs are getting wet. Starting fluid doesn't fire, so intermittently you're not getting spark. You've changed the ignition module, coils and plugs. It's really hard to monitor spark on this setup because of the plugs being buried under the coil unit and ignition module. No codes is very surprising considering you had a blinking CEL. With the information at hand, I'd try a new crank position sensor. They're relatively inexpensive and not hard to change, if hard to get to. Going beyond that, I'd suspect issues in the ECM.
I was leaning towards the cps but i assumed if that went then my car would throw some kind of code. Im also NOT a mechanic just try to play one in my driveway. Is there a way to reset a bcm or would I have to buy a new one?
so i thought i would update everyone in the stupid situation with this car. i knw this will sound really stupid but i ended up running a wire from my ignition module bolt to the frame of my car an miraculously the thing started. idk why or what the actual problem was but it worked for abt 2 weeks now i have a different problem one that makes me wanna just sell the parts off this thing cuz im tired of working on it. thanks everyone that responded.
Maybe you just need to disconnect all of the ground cables you can find and give them a good cleaning and reattach them. Damned if I can tell you what's going on with it. I hate working on modern cars. Give me the 50's thru the 70's cars before they started attaching computers to everything.
After so many years, a lot of the ground connections in these cars have corrosion that builds up and eventually creates a situation where grounds are no longer at ground. This often happens at the ground place splice packs. Sometimes the whole splice pack becomes ungrounded. Sometimes only a few of the wires become ungrounded and the rest stay grounded.
Your ignition model ground, whatever path that takes, is no longer grounded properly, so when you hooked up directly to the frame, you provided the missing ground.
Don't know what your other issue is, but wouldn't at all be surprised if it might also be ground related, or lack thereof
Your ignition model ground, whatever path that takes, is no longer grounded properly, so when you hooked up directly to the frame, you provided the missing ground.
Don't know what your other issue is, but wouldn't at all be surprised if it might also be ground related, or lack thereof
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