What did you do to your S series today?
#82
11-20-2018, 03:43 PM
Yay! You can drive it in PA for another year...
what all do they check when they inspect your car? I know they check the emissions...
what all do they check when they inspect your car? I know they check the emissions...
#84
11-21-2018, 04:43 AM
Yesterday I jumped the 95sc2 to life for the first time in months using a 300A (600 peak A). Lithium ion based jump "brick.". One I figured out you had to select the output voltage, turn the on off switch to off, and press the boost button (the middle one was not in the manual), I had to pound on the gas pedal to get fuel up front. I got it started and idling.
I lightly revved it and put my foot on the clutch and the other on the brake, which instataneinstan killed the engine. The battery holds almost as much charge as a CR2032 at this point so I think the alt was getting dragged down by the battery's resistance, and whenever I tried to do anything requiring significant current, it immediately stopped dead.
It was fun because the nose of the car was protruding into one of the lanes of a 2 lane 50mph road with no lights, just houses. I couldn't put on my hazards because my battery is dead Dead dead. So I'm running back and forth frantically connecting the jump brick, starting car, trying to move it up the street, only for it to stall out.
Eventually I went to plan C which involved me pushing the car on a slight downhill to get it off the road since it is neither registered nor insured. When it started to go too fast, I hopped in and put my foot on the brake, only to have massive fade, no brakes, and a moderate volume of unidentified fluid run out from under the car. I then pulled up on the emergency brake which I immediately determined was in need of adjustment . Eventually stopped, then had family help me push it off into the grass.
New battery and take it from there.
I also do not recommend using the metal housing of the abs motors as a ground when jump starting. Things seem to glow at the connection point, the motors complain. It happened b c I was working in darkness and the neg jumper wire kept popping off the battery and touching it
F me
I lightly revved it and put my foot on the clutch and the other on the brake, which instataneinstan killed the engine. The battery holds almost as much charge as a CR2032 at this point so I think the alt was getting dragged down by the battery's resistance, and whenever I tried to do anything requiring significant current, it immediately stopped dead.
It was fun because the nose of the car was protruding into one of the lanes of a 2 lane 50mph road with no lights, just houses. I couldn't put on my hazards because my battery is dead Dead dead. So I'm running back and forth frantically connecting the jump brick, starting car, trying to move it up the street, only for it to stall out.
Eventually I went to plan C which involved me pushing the car on a slight downhill to get it off the road since it is neither registered nor insured. When it started to go too fast, I hopped in and put my foot on the brake, only to have massive fade, no brakes, and a moderate volume of unidentified fluid run out from under the car. I then pulled up on the emergency brake which I immediately determined was in need of adjustment . Eventually stopped, then had family help me push it off into the grass.
New battery and take it from there.
I also do not recommend using the metal housing of the abs motors as a ground when jump starting. Things seem to glow at the connection point, the motors complain. It happened b c I was working in darkness and the neg jumper wire kept popping off the battery and touching it
F me
#85
11-21-2018, 07:33 AM
Have you kicked your nephew in the *** yet, derf? THAT might make you feel a little better. Be careful with transporting it back home if that's where you're headed with it. Or are you going to try to do most of the work there where it is?
#86
11-21-2018, 09:38 AM
I WAS going to drive it up here and get tags etc next weekend, but now I can't do that until I find out where the brake leak is from, which I am Leary to do on not so level stone. I have a good AAA plan I pay through the nose for; .I don't know if they will tow an unregistered car from residence to residence. I pay enough, they better. Then I can get it on s lift and assess. I'm afraid to even try to look up the brake lines or brake hoses
#88
11-22-2018, 07:09 AM
I agree with Andy. As long as you got the e-brake adjusted, you SHOULD be okay to drive it that way. Just make sure you take a couple of large bottles of brake fluid with you. That way if you feel the pedal getting low, you can add more. I once had to drive a 66 Dart (my uncles) 50 miles to get it home with just a hand brake. That was fun for a 17 year old kid!
#89
08-04-2019, 10:20 AM
Ebay saturnbushingman
Powdered Teflon will supposedly work.
Just so you know, you'll likely get about $12 worth of miles out of that Dorman POS or it will last an uncharacteristically long time for being a Dorman part.
Since you're not buying a new cable set, go visit saturnbushingman on eBay. I have the stainless steel replacement on my 97 and 95 and they hold up. He also offers what seem to be some high quality plastic bushings that are more durable than the Dorman stuff. I've almost always found the Dorman parts you can hold in your hands to be crap quality. Some of the HELP line is OK....
Just so you know, you'll likely get about $12 worth of miles out of that Dorman POS or it will last an uncharacteristically long time for being a Dorman part.
Since you're not buying a new cable set, go visit saturnbushingman on eBay. I have the stainless steel replacement on my 97 and 95 and they hold up. He also offers what seem to be some high quality plastic bushings that are more durable than the Dorman stuff. I've almost always found the Dorman parts you can hold in your hands to be crap quality. Some of the HELP line is OK....
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