Saturn 3 Door Coupes SC1 and SC2

SES light and ignition switch

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 11-17-2011, 07:11 AM
Rubehayseed's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Anniston, AL
Posts: 4,895
Default

No locksmiths around here, OA. I live in a very rural area. It seems to be working fine now, so I guess the graphite did the trick. I think the next time I go to Pull-A-Part, I'll just see how to get the lock cylinder and key out of one and then find the lowest mileage one and pull it along with a couple of others and if they have the metal tabs like a Mopar, I can redo it myself.
 
  #12  
Old 11-18-2011, 11:24 PM
uncljohn's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Peoria AZ
Posts: 1,912
Default

Ruby:
When I dealt with mine last year which was more or less the same thing I managed to squirt some graphite up into it and yes it helped. I also put some 20W50 Mobil 1 on the key and inserted it and took it out for a repeat and between the two, the ignition cylinder sort of freed up and started working more or less normal .
Yuh, it weeped oil a bit for awhile but it quit.
The problem I have here in a way is that with the heat and the UV from the sun, trying to deal with any of the interior pieces including the air bag cover touching the plastic is one thin step away from breaking something I no longer can replace because the plastic is so brittle.
 
  #13  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:46 AM
Rubehayseed's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Anniston, AL
Posts: 4,895
Default

I hear you Uncljohn. I cleaned the rust out of the spare tire well yesterday and then primed and painted it. I was wondering why the dashboard was so danged noisy, so I removed it to see what was up. I'm referring to to the top piece with the vin cutout. Anyway, when I removed it, I found that two of the clips were broken off. I used some Loctite epoxy on them and will see later today if that's gonna hold when I reinstall it. I really like this little car and don't mind putting a little money into it here and there just to keep it going. The big cost for me will be replacing the struts and wheel bearings. I'll have to save up and buy one piece at a time and then spend a whole day doing it. Or two or three.......
 
  #14  
Old 11-19-2011, 05:21 PM
uncljohn's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Peoria AZ
Posts: 1,912
Default

The danged things are likable arn't they. I don't know why they could not make a go of it. I have replaced two front wheel bearings on these. They are supposed be non-replaceable but I have a 12 ton press in the garage. With that a lot of things are replacable that rumour has it you can't And a couple of years ago I had a chance to pick up an entire passenger side strut assembly including steering knuckle and brake rotor, and caliper. Everything. The tie rods were torched in two and the strut unbolted from the top and actually the lower control arm is actually the sway bar doing dual purpose. A really strange design that works flawlessly.
It is in my parts baskets for round tuit repairs if needed.
As a side note, I spent the day refining the fit of the Hornet Engine Mount Cross member and lower control arm support so that I can bolt in my Mercury Marine engine in it. I had the orgiinal modied so that it can support the V8 and still give clearance for the block hugger header exhaust pipe on both sides and retain the lower control arm and access to the camber adjusting screws. Dang, it came out exactly as I visioned it would. The fabricator worked off my measurements and a cardboard and masking tape mock up.
Now this engine is a straight bolt in, including the shift linkage from the OEM column shift to the 700r4 transmission that will replace the torqueflyte 904 that is in it.
When I have the exhaust pipes made a 45 degree angle just off the header flange will point the pipe between the starter on one side and the oil filter on the other side and clear the strut rod for the lower control arm. and then zip out towards the back with out interferring or running into anything.
 
  #15  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:05 AM
Rubehayseed's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Anniston, AL
Posts: 4,895
Default

Good luck with that project, UnclJohn. It sounds very cool. You'll have to post some pictures once it's done. Oh, and hey Derf, I ran the codes yesterday using the old paperclip method and all I got was a 12. So apparently the engine is in good shape. I really like this car more and more as I drive it. I just wish I could find some decent seats for it at Pull-A-Part. Do any of you guys know of any other GM cars that the seats would interchange out of? There are a TON of Chevys, Buicks, Olds and Pontiac's in that yard.
 

Last edited by Rubehayseed; 11-20-2011 at 09:08 AM.
  #16  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:14 PM
derf's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Slightly off center
Posts: 10,298
Default

none compatible

you could buy a racing seat and race unc when he's done
 
  #17  
Old 11-21-2011, 08:24 AM
Rubehayseed's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Anniston, AL
Posts: 4,895
Default

Ha! That's a good one, Derf. I'm not driving out to AZ just to get my butt kicked.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
roc2325
Saturn S Series Sedan
18
04-17-2014 11:10 AM
SilverCoupe#SC2
General Tech Help
2
04-09-2013 07:55 AM
kspomerantz
General Tech Help
1
04-20-2011 09:57 PM
volfan945
Saturn S Series Sedan
12
05-02-2010 07:58 PM
KCKIM
Saturn 3 Door Coupes
12
12-28-2008 08:18 PM



Quick Reply: SES light and ignition switch



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:54 AM.