OBD II codes
#1
OBD II codes
hey, i just scanned my 2000 SC2 and came up with this:
PO410 Secondary Air Injection Malfunction
then i did the emissions scan these came up as "Not Ready"
CAT--Catalyst Monitor
EVAP--Evaporative System Monitor
2AIR--Secondary Air Monitor
EGR--EGR System Monitor
what work do i need to do/parts do i need to buy to fix that stuff?
any help would be appreciated
PO410 Secondary Air Injection Malfunction
then i did the emissions scan these came up as "Not Ready"
CAT--Catalyst Monitor
EVAP--Evaporative System Monitor
2AIR--Secondary Air Monitor
EGR--EGR System Monitor
what work do i need to do/parts do i need to buy to fix that stuff?
any help would be appreciated
#2
For the P0140:
I believe Richpin has a nice troubleshooting video on the sec air inj system.
Don't forget that this sec air injection system only runs for about 30 sec after startup (per Richpin), so you need to be set up to make some of your checks and measurements rather quickly in order to get a valid diagnosis.
I particularly like the way he works his way through the system from beginning to end.
For the other NOT READY's
If you have recently erased codes, (like the 0140, only to have it return right away), chances are you have not met the conditions outlined in the GM drive cycle which must be met in order for each particular test to be run.
Since you're not throwing catalyst, EGR, or EVAP codes, I'm fairly confident that's all it is.
If you have NOT recently erased codes, then we will have to dig deeper
I believe Richpin has a nice troubleshooting video on the sec air inj system.
Don't forget that this sec air injection system only runs for about 30 sec after startup (per Richpin), so you need to be set up to make some of your checks and measurements rather quickly in order to get a valid diagnosis.
I particularly like the way he works his way through the system from beginning to end.
For the other NOT READY's
If you have recently erased codes, (like the 0140, only to have it return right away), chances are you have not met the conditions outlined in the GM drive cycle which must be met in order for each particular test to be run.
Since you're not throwing catalyst, EGR, or EVAP codes, I'm fairly confident that's all it is.
If you have NOT recently erased codes, then we will have to dig deeper
#4
thanks
hey, that was a great video, thanks! i took it all apart and it was indeed very gunked up--cleaned it all out, feel better now.
still losing power on acceleration though. letting it idle for awhile, to breathe fresh air again.
cleared all service codes.
still losing power on acceleration though. letting it idle for awhile, to breathe fresh air again.
cleared all service codes.
#5
???
You didn't indicate this was an issue earlier in the thread....
Please describe in a bit more detail (what speeds, flat/hills, etc)
You didn't indicate this was an issue earlier in the thread....
Please describe in a bit more detail (what speeds, flat/hills, etc)
#6
yeah, it bogs down at around 3000 rpm, even when in park. its actually dying now, after flooring it. thanks to that video i think its the diverter valve, i have my local auto parts shop tracking one down for me, if they cant then i've found one online.
#10
Plugged fuel filters and plugged cats can act the same. Fuel filters cost just a few $, I would do this first. Plugged exhaust has a different sound, but if you have nothing to compare it with it is difficult to tell. Disconnect the head pipe and see how it runs, it will be very loud.