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I separated them in the car with plenty of room to work using that write-up you posted ( excellent write-up) . I am having difficulty finding the shifter tower gasket that is referred to in the text . I found that if you remove the shifter tower then the entire trans. Can move towards the driver side enough for plenty of work room for flywheel change along with everything else. I just need assistance in finding the gasket for the shifter tower. Thanks to all for checking for me.
At this point, please be aware that you are teaching and we are learning. So the little tidbits of information you throw in may seem trivial to you but they are gold to us.
No effing clue if this is legit or what decade in which it was posted.
However, here is a link to a workaround or two blessed by OldNuc, from Saturnfans.com that should work for you. There are three options listed so read all the way through
OldNuc was one of the most knowledgeable s car people I have ever come across. I've seen him be wrong once. Unfortunately he is no longer with us, but his advice is.
https://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139076
Considering all the help I have received, it is very gratifying to me to help in return. I am going to post a few pictures to assist everyone in seeing this unusual method I used but if all you have is a nice flat concrete floor or driveway, that is sufficient to do it this way. Pictures are coming.
I understand that this could be construed as shade tree mechanic stuff but I have no lift or special tools but I do possess a great deal of ingenuity. So the pictures are showing an alternate method of supporting the engine from underneath. If the car is on jackstands , as it should be, then the car is stable. So how do we keep the engine supported? Measure from a solid flat spot on the bottom of the engine straight down to the concrete floor. Cut a 2X4 , do not cut it too short. You should have to tap it into place with a hammer. Duplicate that process for the opposite side of the engine. Then measure distance between the two boards and make a cross- member. Screw them together with 2 screws at each end. See photo. How do we support the trans. ? Other photo shows a 2X4 laying horizontally from firewall top edge to radiator core support. Don’t forget to remove the rubber weatherstripping! I used a ratchet strap wrapped around the bottom of the trans and over the top of the 2X4. Only tighten the strap enough to hold the weight not lift it yet. After following the steps that Derf provided, the two sections separated easily. Make note that for this to work correctly, you must remove shift tower to allow enough room for the trans to move sideways into driver side wheel well. Photos show all. Just for extra safety I have a floor jack also under trans. See photo. No other support for engine except the new TAM installed and the dog one under the crankshaft.
First of all it is that cool color teal.
Second of all, when there's a will there's a way.
Third of all, the entire frame and subframe look like they came off the assembly line 3 years ago. How dare you.
I appreciate all of it because now I can say it is almost done. Runs excellent, street legal with inspection and insurance, new tires , rear brakes, front end alignment, and a bunch of other stuff. Today while installing the slightly damaged black plastic cover across the bottom of the radiator I recognize that I might be missing an additional plastic piece just forward of this one. Does anyone know if there is two black plastic covers, one that may hook to the underside of the front bumper cover and continue rearward, and the second one that starts just below the radiator and continues rearward and ends at the very thick anti- sway bar. The second one I have. Much thanks.
