Hello I have a 2000 Saturn ls2 that when I was driving last week the reduced power light came on and after a little investigation I found that bit lost power to the fuel pump and lost all spark and I have no clue why.

 

With no maintenance history, I would first check compression. These are a timing belt engine with a 100,000 mile or 7 year replacement interval. When the belt fails engine damage occurs.

 

I do not have a compression tester to test the compression

 

Then you may have to call a repair garage.

 

You can still check for compression. It's not an accurate reading of course, but you can just remove the spark plugs and put your finger in the spark plug hole and have someone crank the engine. If it tries to blow your finger out of the hole, compression is pretty good. If not, then there's your problem cylinder.

 

 

Does that sucker have a separate fuel pump relay? If so, try removing it and cleaning the contacts. Maybe it's just a dirty or loose connection. If that doesn't work, check for a dirty fuse connection. I THINK it has a separate fuse. And if that doesn't work, check the grounds. It seems to me like you've isolated the problem, you just need to find out which wire is faulty.

 

The engine computer decides when the fuel pump runs. Are there any trouble codes? I am traveling so I don’t have time for computer car 101. Sorry

 

My 5 cents:
1) If the reduced power light came on, your Service Engine Soon light must have come on, Since it currently has no spark and no fuel pump, have a friend drive you to autozone or similar and do a loan a tool for a code reader. It's free. Please post the actual codes (Pxxxx,Bxxxx, Uxxxx, etc where the x's are numbers. We can help troubleshoot from there.

2) What's the oil level on the dipstick?

3) You were able to drive on reduced power, then parked it and NOW it has no spark/no fuel pump? Are you sure it doesn't have fuel pressure at the fuel rail under the hood?
Many cars will run the fuel pump for 3-5 seconds after the key is in the "ON" or further position (CRANK) in order to prime the system (build up proper pressure to start and run after starting). If you are not reading the V drop across the pump during the 3-5 seconds, you will read 0V. Because it is fact not running when you measured it.
Have a friend turn the key to "ON" while you read the V across the pump---should be 12V DC for 3-5 seconds, then 0V until/unless car is running.

5) Is the security light on while trying to start the vehicle? is the security light solid or flashing? These cars have a Passlock II security system where the default state of fuel and spark is DISABLED. The ignition switch, BCM, and ECM must all agree that the correct key is being used Tthe car will sputter or strart, then immediately stall upon cranking for as long as it takes the BCM to figure out the key is not the correct one, then it goes into to default mode and shuts down fuel and spark.
Note that this would NOT lead to a reduced power light---it would only inhibit fuel and spark.

 

Oil level is in the safe zone, I was driving when the reduced power light came on but wasn’t able to once the light came on, I haven’t been able to get to autozone to get a scan tool, and I had my fiancé turn the key while I tested the plug on top of the fuel tank and got 0. I will post the codes whenever I am able to get them read.