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#11
04-27-2015, 10:16 PM
Alpha, pls add your first name and location (Kansas City, e.g.) and your year model and mileage of your saturn to your sig. This way we all know what you're driving or working on when you ask questions or if we want to ask you about your ride.
Thanks
As for the quotes -- we keep it clean n respectful for the most part--if it's over the line, it'll "vanish"
Thanks
As for the quotes -- we keep it clean n respectful for the most part--if it's over the line, it'll "vanish"
#12
04-27-2015, 10:37 PM
You'll want to check out https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/ge...ap-guide-9742/ -- although most of it pertains to DOHC, some of it is universal information.
Reman heads are out there but are pricey. Actually for a 93 prob not. I suppose given your particular talents you would pick up one from a junkyard and do your own reman'ing.
Reman heads are out there but are pricey. Actually for a 93 prob not. I suppose given your particular talents you would pick up one from a junkyard and do your own reman'ing.
Hey derf
You know I was considering the same thing too, not sure how many miles on the clutch either. After a year considering what to do with this car, and all the time involved with the stereo system and amps and speakers, wiring, relays, switches, etc... The 125 compression left in the two good cylinders, the fact it ran pretty strong for a SOHC before the head cracked, and no lower end noise in cold winter starts, I was just going to do a head gasket, then maybe a rebuild later on. But after pulling the head, and still seeing hash marks in the cylinder walls, all the way down, and very little carbon on the pistons, not nearly as bad as I expected for that many miles. I just figured I'd start with the head, while I could still find a good one. Maybe get started on a block, then when the clutch goes, do the whole 9 yards. Even considering going with DOHC, PCM and harness's. If not, hopefully the head will still be in good enough shape, I can just swap it over with new bolts and gasket if I decide to keep the little SOHC.
I got the car about 5 years ago, with about 150,000 miles. I'm a strong believer in Slick 50, especially just before it gets really cold here. Usually two oil changes during winter. Used it in my 1979 Grand Prix for 20 years, and just about 300,000 miles before the rings went out. That's pretty good for a first generation 3.8L. That block outlasted 3 transmissions, lol! But you know, with sooo many projects, goals and timelines, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. I also have a 1991 Geo Storm, rust bucket-Flintstone Mobile, LOL! (Daily Driver) That really needs my attention. I do a little body work too, but I think that car will be all fiberglass when I'm done, so at least no more rust or dents! That one thing I love about the Saturn's, well, up until about 07' I think?
Also, thanks for the "Signature" information. I'll get on that right away. But...I will need a whole page to list all my vehicles, lol! I'm down to 8, from a count of 13, haha. Did find some info on that 02' LW300. Going there right now to post it.
You know I was considering the same thing too, not sure how many miles on the clutch either. After a year considering what to do with this car, and all the time involved with the stereo system and amps and speakers, wiring, relays, switches, etc... The 125 compression left in the two good cylinders, the fact it ran pretty strong for a SOHC before the head cracked, and no lower end noise in cold winter starts, I was just going to do a head gasket, then maybe a rebuild later on. But after pulling the head, and still seeing hash marks in the cylinder walls, all the way down, and very little carbon on the pistons, not nearly as bad as I expected for that many miles. I just figured I'd start with the head, while I could still find a good one. Maybe get started on a block, then when the clutch goes, do the whole 9 yards. Even considering going with DOHC, PCM and harness's. If not, hopefully the head will still be in good enough shape, I can just swap it over with new bolts and gasket if I decide to keep the little SOHC.
I got the car about 5 years ago, with about 150,000 miles. I'm a strong believer in Slick 50, especially just before it gets really cold here. Usually two oil changes during winter. Used it in my 1979 Grand Prix for 20 years, and just about 300,000 miles before the rings went out. That's pretty good for a first generation 3.8L. That block outlasted 3 transmissions, lol! But you know, with sooo many projects, goals and timelines, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. I also have a 1991 Geo Storm, rust bucket-Flintstone Mobile, LOL! (Daily Driver) That really needs my attention. I do a little body work too, but I think that car will be all fiberglass when I'm done, so at least no more rust or dents! That one thing I love about the Saturn's, well, up until about 07' I think?
Also, thanks for the "Signature" information. I'll get on that right away. But...I will need a whole page to list all my vehicles, lol! I'm down to 8, from a count of 13, haha. Did find some info on that 02' LW300. Going there right now to post it.
#13
04-28-2015, 01:09 AM
Yup, going to have to check out that S-Series Swap Guide! Didn't know there was such an animal, haha. No machine shop at work, but I could tackle the block after having it deck-bored. Did get Satty up and running the other day, just a few kinks to work out. Then next is to finish up on the stereo system, and I will try to post some pics on that project. Should have taken some shots with the head off, and casting numbers, timing etc. When I have time, I will post an article on that issue. They have 3 different casting numbers for the SOHC's and since my car was first generation, it took 3 weeks to find a head that would work. They had a huge problem with the heads cracking on the first and second generations. Very expensive to find a good one, reman's are all welded, as is the one I just installed. Temp. fans don't come on until 220 deg. F. I'm going to install a numbered gauge, so I know exactly what the temp is, and not just guess at the hash marks. Straight up center mark would be 220, according to my scanner, that's pretty close, but after that, who knows? So I'll wire in a toggle for the fan relay ground at the PCM. Will toggle it on at 200 deg., I think that's hot enough. I also think most cars run best around 180, don't know why Saturn decided on 220. In old school, say the 70's that would be overheating, haha.
Last edited by Alpha Centauri; 04-29-2015 at 04:21 PM. Reason: grammer
#14
05-17-2015, 08:55 AM
220 degree's is for burning off emissions, meeting the EPA desired standards. Fuel injected engines seem to handle this well, as long as they are water cooled. My Harley on the other hand-not so much....LOL.
#15
05-17-2015, 01:50 PM
Hey chawala, thanks for the reply! Makes sense to me. My 93' SC1 is actually a throttle body, and it does seem to run much better, and have more power at the 180-200 degree range. Most of the time, it runs at thermostat...180 to 190, and the fans never come on because they aren't commanded on by the PCM until 220. Only when stuck in traffic, on a hot summer day does it reach the 220 mark. Since these are notorious for cracked head problems, I'm wondering if there is a correlation. I'm not looking to replace this reman head any time soon, and although the crack is welded, who's to say it won't crack again in another spot? I have seen these crack in 3 different places, and usually a cracked head has to do with over temp as a major factor...in my opinion. And by the way, love your tip, LOL! Logic flaw...ever been bitten by a scared cat? I'm a cat person myself, but...considering the alternative...I'll take the sharp end anytime rather than ole brown-eye! LOLOLOL!
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