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Tranmission Swap

Old Oct 3, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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Exclamation Tranmission Swap

This is from Mike@Different Racing

This is the sort of information one can find if they do a little internet research before asking questions. I guess that's me saying I'm sick and tired of people asking the same damn thing over and over then getting upset with us because we told them to search the internet. Oh and add your first name, location, and car info to your signature cause I'm not going to answer another question when your to damn lazy to introduce yourself.

Transaxle Swap - Automatic to Manual
These are the parts needed for an automatic to manual transmission conversion on 91-02 S-series.

Item
92-02 Manual Transmission
Flywheel
Clutch
Pressure plate
Throw-out bearing
Clutch hydraulic assembly (slave cylinder)
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch pedal pivot rod
Shift lever cable assembly
Shifter assembly
Shift lever/selector lever cable guide
Shift ****
Shifter boot
Shift lever cable retainer (2)
Control lever boot retainer (2)
Powertrain Control Module
Clutch pedal rod retainer
Powertrain mount assembly
Clutch actuator cylinder bracket nut (2)
Flywheel bolts
Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts



Automatic Transmission Removal
1. On a level surface and using a set of ramps for low ground clearance automobiles, back the car onto them so that the rear wheels rest on them. Apply parking brake.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.
3. Enlist the help of another person and jack the car up simultaneously using two floor jacks. Once the front wheels are at the same height as the rear wheels on the ramps, use some jack stands to support the front end of the car.
4. Double check to make sure the car is sturdy and will not move.
5. Remove all air intake tubing.
6. Remove transaxle strut to cradle bracket bolt a. Loosen transaxle strut to transaxle bracket bolt and flip transaxle strut out of the way

7. Disconnect battery terminals
8. Remove battery
9. Remove battery tray (13mm socket needed) [Note: two bolts are located in the fender well])
10. Disconnect all electrical connections from the transmission. a. Actuator connector
b. Vehicle speed sensor
c. Turbine speed sensor
d. Transaxle temperature sensor
e. Gear selector switch connectors
f. Two ground terminals from top two converter housing bolts (15mm socket needed)

11. Remove top two converter housing-to-engine bolts (15mm deep socket required)
12. Remove spark plug wires from coil towers
13. Remove two ignition module electrical connectors
14. Remove bolts from electronic ignition module (5/16" socket needed) and remove the module
15. Using twine or wire, tie the radiator to the upper radiator support to hold the radiator in place when the cradle is removed
16. Install Saturn engine support bar #SA9105E or use a 2" x 4" piece of lumber and a bike chain. See picture for reference.
17. Remove the front wheels.
18. Remove right and left wheel well splash guards. Use a one or two screwdrivers to pop out the plastic rivet centers and remove the other part of the rivet. The shields will be held down near the bottom of the cradle with two metal clips. Use a small screwdriver to remove them.
19. Remove front engine splash shield. There are two 10mm nuts in front and two plastic rivets near the back of the shield.
20. On 92-94 vehicles, remove two engine strut bracket-to-cradle nuts (15mm socket needed)
21. On 91 vehicles, remove two engine mount-to-cradle nuts. (15mm socket needed)
22. Remove transaxle mount-to-cradle nuts. (15mm socket needed)
23. Remove front exhaust pipe-to-manifold/header nuts. (1/2" socket needed)
24. Remove front exhaust pipe-to-catalytic converter nuts. (1/2" socket needed)
25. Remove exhaust pipe support bracket-to-exhaust pipe nuts. (1/2" socket needed)
26. Remove front exhaust pipe from vehicle
27. Remove steering rack to cradle nuts (1/2" socket needed for bolts, 15mm socket needed for nuts). The bolt nearest the transaxle may not come out. Remove the nut and leave the bolt there until the cradle is removed.
28. Remove the brake line bracket plastic rivet at the rear of the cradle.
29. On 1991 vehicles, remove two transaxle front mount-to-cradle nuts. (15mm socket needed)
30. On 1991 vehicles, remove the rear transaxle mount.
31. Remove engine-to-transaxle stiffening bracket bolts and remove bracket. (13mm socket needed)
32. Remove dust cover to torque converter housing bolts and remove dust cover.
33. Remove four torque converter-to-flywheel bolts. Use of an impact gun may be required. If you can prevent the engine from spinning a breaker bar can be used. (15mm socket needed)
34. Remove the lower control arm-to-cradle bolt and nut. (15mm socket needed for bolt, 18mm socket needed for nut)
35. Remove sway bar nut at lower control arm. (15/16" socket needed)
36. Remove sway bar brackets. (15mm socket needed).
37. Remove the left side axle from the transaxle using a large screwdriver or pry bar. (Note: Do not allow screwdriver to contact axle seal or you might damage it.)
38. Remove the axle being careful not to touch the rubber seal with the sharp splines of the axle shaft.
39. Separate right side axle from intermediate shaft. Place the tip of a screwdriver on the end of the axle and tap it lightly with a hammer or mallet. The axle should separate from the intermediate shaft snap ring and you should be able to remove it the rest of the way by hand.
40. On DOHC engines, remove the intake bracket-to-intake manifold bolt. (10mm socket needed)
41. Remove intake bracket-to-intermediate shaft support nut. (15mm socket needed)
42. Remove starter bracket-to-intermediate shaft support bolt, if equipped. (10mm socket needed)
43. Remove three intermediate shaft-to-engine block bolts. (15mm deep socket required)
44. Carefully slide intermediate shaft out of transaxle being careful not to touch the rubber seal with the sharp splines of the intermediate shaft.
45. Support the cradle with two jacks on the left and right side.
46. Remove the four cradle-to-body bolts. (18mm socket needed [Note: There may be two large spacing washers between the cradle and the body at the two rear cradle attachments. Use wire or tape to attach the washers to the cradle to prevent loss])
47. Carefully lower the cradle with the jacks.
48. Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines from the transaxle. use a piece of 3/8" rubber hose to connect the two cooler lines together. This will prevent transaxle fluid from dripping all over the place.
49. Support transmission securely with a floor jack.
50. Remove two torque converter housing-to-engine bolts. One is located on the front of the engine just below the dipstick. One is located behind the engine near the starter.
51. Separate transaxle from engine and lower transaxle.
52. Lower transaxle enough to remove shift cable.
53. Remove the cable from the converter housing by squeezing the two release tabs with some needle nose pliers or two flat head screwdrivers.
54. Lower transaxle from vehicle.



Flexplate Removal
1. Remove flexplate-to-crankshaft bolts in a crisscross pattern. (17mm socket needed)
2. Remove flexplate
1. Discard flexplate bolts



Flywheel Installation
1. Install flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts in a crisscross pattern snugly by hand. (17mm socket needed)
2. Torque the bolts in a crisscross pattern. Torque: 59 ft-lbs
3. Install the clutch disc alignment tool #SA9145T or equivalent in the clutch disc and push it in until it bottoms out in the crankshaft.
4. Install the clutch disc and the pressure plate. Be sure to line the pressure plate up with the bolt holes and guide pins.
5. Tighten the bolts using a progressive crisscross pattern to prevent warping the plate cover. Torque: 18 ft-lbs (10mm socket needed) [Note: When tightening the pressure plate bolts, do not tighten the bolts more than half a turn at a time or the pressure plate cover may warp.])
6. Remove clutch alignment tool from clutch disc.



Clutch pedal installation
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal if not already removed.
2. Remove upper dash panel screw caps by carefully prying with a small flat head screwdriver.
3. Remove upper dash panel screws.
4. Lift upper dash trim panel to disengage clips.
5. Pull panel rearward out of the three clips at the bottom of windshield.
6. Remove upper dash trim panel.
7. Remove foam sound deadening insulation.
8. Disconnect cables from PCM and ABS controller (if equipped).
9. Using a phillips-head screwdriver, turn the phillips screws 1/2 turn to unlock the PCM and ABS controller from from the PCM/ABS housing.
10. Remove the PCM and ABS controller and lay them on something static-free.
11. Loosen the two PCM/ABS housing bolts. (10mm socket needed)
12. The housing should be flexible.
13. Install clutch pedal pivot shaft by flexing the PCM/ABS housing to get into the hole on the steering column.
14. Install the two PCM/ABS housing bolts. (10mm socket needed)
15. Install pivot shaft nut on passenger side of steering column. Use pliers to hold the pivot shaft in place to tighten the nut. Torque: 150 in-lbs.
16. Install clutch pedal inner bushing.
17. Install clutch pedal onto pivot rod and install outer bushing.
18. Install pivot rod retainer.
19. Install PCM and ABS controllers. Push them into place so the phillips-head screw locks into place.
20. Reconnect cables to PCM and ABS controller (if equipped).
21. Install foam sound deadening insulation.
22. Install upper dash trim panel by inserting it into the three clips at the base of the windshield and snapping into position.
23. Install upper trim panel screws and screw caps.



Hydraulic clutch mechanism installation (Slave Cylinder)
1. Note: When installing a new unit, the plastic retainer straps on the actuator remain in place when installing the unit. This will ensure the actuator rod is seated in the clutch release fork pocket as the actuator is installed.
2. From inside the engine compartment, sitting on the floor, remove the round rubber plug just next to the brake master cylinder. There should be a square hole behind it.
3. From engine compartment, install clutch master cylinder into firewall with reservoir leaning outboard. Turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise to lock in position.
4. Continued in Manual Transaxle Installation



Manual Transaxle Installation
1. Place transaxle securely on a jack and position it under the vehicle. Place the jack directly underneath the driver's side wheel well. This allows for better movement to get the transaxle into place.
2. Place transaxle in any gear.
3. Raise transaxle into vehicle to align input shaft to the center of the clutch. Guide the transaxle into position, rotate it back and forth to align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc. (Note: Make sure the input shaft splines line up with the clutch disc splines before tightening the clutch housing bolts. Do not use the bolts to pull the transaxle up to the engine)
4. Install two lower clutch housing to engine bolts. Torque: 103 ft-lbs
5. Remove jack
6. Install left side axle into transaxle being careful not to touch the rubber seal with the sharp splines of the axle shaft. Use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap the axle into place until the snap ring snaps.
7. Install intermediate shaft into transaxle being careful not to touch the rubber seal with the sharp splines of the intermediate shaft.
8. Position intermediate shaft support and install three bolts. Torque: 40 ft-lbs (15mm deep socket needed)
9. Install starter bracket to intermediate shaft bolt, if removed. Torque: 22 ft-lbs (10mm socket needed)
10. On DOHC engines, position intake manifold support bracket and install intake bracket-to-intake manifold bolt. Torque: 22 ft-lbs. (10mm socket needed)
11. Install intake bracket to intermediate shaft support nut. Torque: 40 ft-lbs (15mm socket needed)
12. Install right axle to intermediate shaft. Use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it into place so the snap ring locks it in. Place the screwdriver on a metal piece on the base of the boot.
13. Place cradle on jacks and lift up to the vehicle. Make sure the following are in position when raising cradle into vehicle: a. Radiator support bushings
b. Engine strut cradle bracket
c. Transaxle mount

14. Note: The cradle must be aligned correctly to maintain a proper alignment. Alignment holes are located next to the stud locations on the front of the cradle. Use a 9/16" piece of round steel rod and insert them into the holes. Then install two rear cradle-to-body bolts. Do not torque yet.
15. Position the cradle at the two front cradle to body fasteners. If the cradle is lined up, tighten the bolts. Torque: 155 ft-lbs.
16. Tighten the rear cradle-to-body bolts. Torque: 155 ft-lbs. (18mm socket needed)
17. Remove jacks.
18. Remove engine support bar or wood 2x4.
19. Install transaxle strut. Torque: 37 ft-lbs (13mm socket needed for bolt, 15mm socket needed for nut)
20. Remove radiator support wire/twine.
21. Install electronic ignition module and bolts. Torque: 71 in-lbs (5/16" socket needed)
22. Install the top two clutch housing to engine studs. Torque: 74 ft-lbs (15mm socket needed)
23. Connect electrical connections to transaxle: • Vehicle speed sensor
• Back up light switch (Dark blue and light green wires from automatic transaxle shift selector switch connect to this switch.)
• Two ground terminals to top two clutch housing studs. Torque: 18 ft-lbs (15mm socket needed)

24. Install vent hose to nipple on top of gear selector housing. Position hose higher than the nipple on the gear selector housing.
25. Connect shifter cables to shift arms and clutch housing. Install cable retainers.
26. Slide clutch hydraulic damper and bracket onto clutch housing damper studs and install two nuts. Torque: 18 ft-lbs (13mm socket needed)
27. Install actuator into clutch housing with hydraulic line facing down and rotate actuator 1/4 turn clockwise while pushing toward housing.
28. Install clutch pedal pushrod onto clutch pedal.
29. Install pushrod retainer.
30. Install battery tray and tighten bolts: Torque: 89 in-lbs.
31. Install battery.
32. Install air intake tubing.
33. Install lower transaxle mount-to-cradle nuts. Torque: 37 ft-lbs (15mm socket needed)
34. Install two engine strut cradle bracket-to-cradle nuts. Torque: 37 ft-lbs.
35. Install steering gear-to-cradle bolts and nuts. Torque: 37 ft-lbs (13mm socket needed for bolts, 15mm socket needed for nuts)
36. Connect brake line-to-cradle plastic rivet.
37. Install dust cover and install dust cover to clutch housing bolts. Torque: 97 in-lbs
38. Install powertrain stiffening bracket and tighten bolts. Torque: 40 ft-lbs (13mm socket needed)
39. Position exhaust pipe into vehicle.
40. Install exhaust pipe-to-manifold/header nuts and tighten. Torque: 23 ft-lbs
41. Install exhaust pipe-to-catalytic converter nuts.
42. Install exhaust pipe support bracket-to-exhaust pipe nuts.
43. Install sway bar to sway bar brackets. Keep brackets very loose.
44. Install sway bar to lower control arm. Install nut but keep it loose.
45. Install one of the lower control arms to the cradle. Install bolt and nut and keep it loose.
46. Install other lower control arm to the cradle and install the bolt and nut. This may be a little tough. Get at least three people to help you.
47. Tighten lower control arm-to-cradle bolts and nuts. Bolt Torque: 92 ft-lbs, Nut Torque: 74 ft-lbs. (15mm socket needed for bolt, 18mm socket or wrench needed for nut)
48. Tighten control arm-to-sway bar nuts. Torque: 106 ft-lbs (15/16" socket needed)
49. Install front, right and left side splash shields.
50. Install wheels onto hubs.
51. Install lugnuts and tighten by hand as much as you can.
52. Jack the car up simultaneously using two floor jacks to lift the vehicle up off of the jack stands. Once the vehicle is off of the jack stands, remove them away from the vehicle.
53. Slowly lower the front of the vehicle down to the ground.
54. Torque wheel lugnuts to 103 ft-lbs using a crisscross pattern.
55. Make sure drain plug is installed on transaxle. Torque: 40ft-lbs with aluminum washer, 22 ft-lbs with rubber seal.
56. Fill transaxle to proper level (2.6 quarts) using Dexron-IIE or III Automatic Transmission Fluid. DO NOT USE GEAR OIL.
57. Dive vehicle slowly down ramps
 

Last edited by RjION; Oct 3, 2013 at 02:16 PM.


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